Douro River Cruise incl. Porto, Salamanca, Braga, Guimarães (July 21-29, 2024)

Translation disclaimer: This page was translated using automated software for your convenience. No guarantee is given regarding the accuracy of the translation. The content will be manually reviewed later.

"Just relax, we'll move the scenery ." That was the slogan of the first cruise company I worked for. No other phrase captures better the essence of this week in Portugal aboard the MS Queen Isabel.

In Porto, we're taken directly to our ship, moored at Caïs de Gaia , on the south bank of the Douro River. Because Portugal uses GMT, we have an extra hour, a total of four hours, to "stroll", because that's exactly what everyone here does. From this quay, you're immediately drawn to the captivatingly beautiful views of Porto and its famous Ponte Luiz 1 bridge, built by Gustave Eiffel in 1877, with its distinctive arched design. From here, we walk across the bridge to the famous, bustling, picturesque Ribeira district on the other side, at the foot of the old town. An incredible atmosphere pervades the entire place, with people partying on boats and terraces, acts, and street vendors selling all sorts of goods on the ground or from primitive stalls. But what exuberance! We're immediately in a vacation mood.

The photogenic rabelos, in particular, complete the picture. Rabelos are traditional Portuguese boats, specially designed for transporting port wine barrels from the vineyards of the Douro Valley to the cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia. They are recognizable by their flat bottoms and large square sails, making them suitable for navigating the capricious and sometimes shallow waters of the Douro River.

We have lunch overlooking the river, the quays, and the impressive bridge, watching the exuberant crowds. It's difficult to choose between bacalhau (cod) and other local dishes like cabrito assado (roasted goat kid) or the ubiquitous francesinha (a piece of meat and ham with cheese and sauce baked in the oven, topped with a fried egg). Naturally, this is accompanied by a glass of light vinho verde. Then we take the cable car all the way to the top, where the Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar , an Augustinian monastery (17th century, UNESCO World Heritage Site), overlooks the city and offers stunning panoramic views.

In the evening, we sailed to a spot upriver, as our sleeping comfort would clearly be compromised by the festivities on the quays of Gaia. After a welcome cocktail and dinner, we met the seven Flemish people at the table: Rozemie, Gilbert and Léa, and Gilbert and Marianne. This cruise is, after all, a monolingual French operation. But that didn't bother us, especially since it saved us another €800 per person on the purchase price.

The cruise director , Milena Markovic, is of Serbian descent but with a perfect Parisian accent. She has one assistant, Marin, but has to manage almost every aspect of the ship on her own.

As a former cruise director, I'm taking it in stride, because the job is completely different from ocean cruises, where I had a cruise and social staff of about twenty. Here, we have about eighty passengers. Meals are served primarily by Brazilians, with our Gabriel proving to be a model of efficiency and elegance. Sometimes it's interspersed with lavish buffets, but always with a rich selection of local wines. Afterward, we spend time on the upper deck, where a perfect Atlantic breeze invites us for after-dinner drinks, and where a whole group of young French women lounge in the (shallow) pool until well after midnight.

The next morning (day 2) we set sail for Régua . The enchanting cruise, perfectly visible from the restaurant, the Lounge Bar, and of course the sun deck, proves to be pure delight. While we lounge in the sun and in the pool, reading or dozing, we pass landscapes with vineyards and wineries on the slopes, small villages and harbors, and numerous bridges. Every bend in the river offers a new surprise. And sometimes with a stretch of the Douro Railway Line along the bank. I'm searching for a word to describe the superlative of "enjoyment."

And then there are… the locks. Called "barrages" here, five in total, so this trip has ten passages. A thrilling experience in itself. These boats are apparently all the same size, because once inside the lock, there's barely any room left on either side, and at the highest point, the captain sometimes has to lean against the underside of the bridge before crouching down. Sometimes the entire sunshade has to be removed, sometimes including the railings, and twice you're not even allowed on the upper deck. Like at the incredibly low, iron Ferrados bridge, which would surely decapitate you standing there.

The most spectacular lock is part of the Barragem do Carrapatelo gravity dam, locally nicknamed "El Catedral," and has a 35-meter drop. An impressive experience. Meanwhile, lectures are also being given by historian Yves Léonard, but we prefer the sun deck to Magellan and Columbus.

After lunch, we dock at Peso da Régua, the heart of the wine trade, where we immediately visit the Douro Museum. We're given audio guides, and our regular guide is Lydia, a Lisboeta (Lisbon native), who, despite the heat, always wears jeans and a sweater. Strange. According to her, the Portuguese are fundamentally gullible. They believe in human kindness, have little suspicion, and are therefore very hospitable. Although, I've yet to meet the first person who doesn't consider their own inhabitants very hospitable.

It's scorching hot: 40° to 42°C. As we disembark, the pretty receptionist says, "Good luck!" In the Douro Museum, we learn all about the wine trade in this region, a UNESCO World Heritage site. We learn about the importance of the subsoil here, the temperatures, the various grape varieties, the role of the sun in combination with horizontal and vertical vine terraces on the slopes, the rabelos, the immigrant harvesters (Brazilians, Cape Verdeans, and Mozambicans), and so on.

Then we head to Solar de Mateus , a castle and a true Portuguese Baroque gem (18th century) with a rich history, unique interiors, and beautiful gardens with avenues full of flowers and shrubs, a prime example of landscape art. Merites by the architect Nicolau Nasone. This elegant country house, near Vila Real, is also known for appearing on the cover of the famous oval-shaped Portuguese rosé wine of the same name, Mateus.

Later, we were welcomed at a beautiful, family-run Quinta (wine estate), Casa dos Viscondes da Varzea , by the exuberant, flamboyant Maria Cyrne. "Thank you for coming!" And we secretly thought: of course, how much would this visit earn her?

The tour of the grand house tells the family history through lavishly decorated living, dining and work areas.

There's a dinner planned, where she'll be draped in a colorful, large scarf (she sells them here, just like her wine) and gesticulating around all the guests. But I notice that, besides this overkill of friendliness, she's also very snappy, harsh, and blunt towards her staff.

Then it's back to Pinhao , where the ship remains moored, as we never sail at night. We witness the shifting of positions between three boats. Sometimes they're three abreast, and then you have to walk through two others to reach your own ship. But of course, whoever stays moored the longest gets to stay closest to the shore. It's a rather amusing operation... In the evening, we spend some time indoors in the cool air, listening to music from pianist Americo.

On day three, the scenario is the same. In the morning, we pass the Bagàusta and Valeira barrages to moor at Pocino . After lunch, an excursion is planned to the small medieval village of Castelo Rodrigo . Narrow, steep streets, admittedly, with Manueline facades and windows, but in this heat (again, 40°C) and a 75-minute coach ride, no, we'll give it a miss. Once home, as soon as we step outside, we immediately wander into enchanting medieval and historic neighborhoods. Instead, we sail delightfully to Barca d'Alva, right next to the Spanish border.

Day four is a one-and-a-half-hour drive, a full-day excursion to the splendor of this ancient UNESCO city of Salamanca , known for its renowned university. Sometimes called the "golden city" because of the warm yellow color of its building blocks. We walk to the majestic Plaza Mayor , one of the largest squares in Spain. We stroll along Rua San Pablo, passing the Convento da San Estebàn and the Sala de Exposiciones Salina . Once there, we switch to a mandatory Spanish guide and continue along charming, pedestrian streets and squares. We see the Casa de las Conchas with its abundant shell motifs opposite the beautiful façade of the Palacio Maldonado.

Then we pass the Universidad Pontificia, Clerecia, and the Scala Coeli toward the highlight: the Cathedral Vieja and Cathedral Nuevo . A visit to the University reveals how the student and faculty story unfolded centuries ago. The "new" cathedral (16th-18th century) is overwhelmingly impressive, a blend of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles within a richly decorated, sculpted interior and featuring a very fine, imaginative façade filled with delicate sculptures. An astronaut was incorporated into it (after restoration) as an anachronism. The remarkable thing is that from this cathedral, we can simply step into the old Romanesque church, which, due to its need for expansion and various circumstances, was ultimately built adjacent to it.

After the square with its bishop's palace, it's just a short walk along the rugged city walls to lunch, served in a preserved old hall at l'Hospes de San Esteban . We feasted on a diverse, extensive, purely Spanish tapas buffet with local wines. Afterwards, we had some free time before the return trip. Thanks to the shade in the high, narrow streets, this city visit was quite bearable despite the heat. It's interesting to note that it can be horribly cold here in winter, and few people have modern heating.

In the evening, Captain Ezequiel Marques introduces his three-man navigation crew, followed by a delicious, typical Portuguese dinner buffet featuring regional specialties prepared by Chef Cayo and enhanced with excellent Douro wines. I particularly appreciate the Morcela Fumada, a delicious smoked black pudding. Afterwards, there's the ceremony of opening a large bottle of vintage Porto .

Hotel director Riu and our bartender demonstrate this unique method of heating and cooling, held with special tongs, until the cork pops naturally. And we get to sample it for €6.50 a glass—it's definitely worth it.

Day five includes another delightful Douro cruise back to Régua, with an excursion to the Sandeman establishment overlooking the Douro, where we learn all about the different port preparations and flavors. This is followed by a tasting of ruby (young, ruby-red) and older tawny (more muted color), white, and red. I also learn that white port with tonic is quite popular in this region, known as the Sandeman Splash. The Sandeman emblem doesn't refer to Zorro, but rather to the brand's blend of Spanish sherry and Portuguese port. The hat refers to the Spanish sombrero, and the cloak to the typical student cape here.

The view from up here is magnificent, looking down over the winding Douro valleys planted with grapevines. Then we head to Lamego , with its impressive 12th-century cathedral, though its numerous renovations have ultimately left it with a rather eclectic style. After visiting the local museum, filled with sculptures, paintings, and all sorts of other artifacts, we return to our ship, with an evening performance by a folk group, whose songs and various artisanal instruments are intended to put us in a Portuguese mood.

Day six . We sail towards Porto . Just after lunch, we thoroughly enjoy our arrival, first under the many bridges and then the cruise almost to the mouth where we can turn around and moor back at Cais de Gaia. A bus takes us up to the city center, from where we descend through the beautiful old town (a UNESCO World Heritage site) and walk back to the ship. A journey full of atmosphere, discoveries, and highlights. I'm frantically taking photos of bridges, monuments, vistas, azulejos, flower-filled balconies, and alleyways. First, it's the Sé Cathedral, a Romanesque fortified church (rebuilt in the 17th and 18th centuries) bordered by two squares that offer beautiful views of the river, the rooftops, and churches in the distance. The remarkable train station São Bentão has interior walls with no fewer than 20,000 azulejos , the famous blue tiles that depict the history of Portugal.

The Rua de Flores shopping street leads to the stock exchange building , a national monument. It offers unique spaces, including the Moorish salon (inspired by the Alhambra).

Later, another wine tasting will be offered in the Calem cellars near the ship. In the evening, a fado concert will take place. The singer's heartbreaking, nostalgic songs will put us in the mood for a deep sleep (partly due to all the walking today).

Day seven . What a difference. After four days of temperatures between 38° and 42°, but yesterday only 28-32°, we depart on a slightly misty morning with barely 20°. It takes some getting used to. Although, this drops to a quite bearable 28° for our excursion to Braga, "the Rome of Portugal," and Guimaraes. Before visiting Braga , which already existed in Roman times, we stop at the Sanctuario Bom Jesus do Monte . On top of a hill stands the Basilica of Sameiro, an important pilgrimage site (after Fatima) with a huge, opulent Baroque staircase leading to it, consisting of 573 steps and seventeen terraces filled with symbolic fountains, allegorical statues, and Baroque decorations. There is a small train that runs entirely sustainably on water weight, but it didn't seem to be in use. But what a photographer's paradise! Statues and flowerbeds, and therefore front and far views, and plenty of depth of field with the city of Braga in the distance.

From the Portal Nova in Braga, known for its exceptional heritage and important religious center, we take a short walk past numerous churches and historic buildings. The highlight is also the city's symbol: the 12th-century Sé Cathedral, Romanesque and thus the oldest in the country. Inside, however, it boasts a truly dazzling interior, gilded with gilded gold and adorned with dazzling Baroque ornamentation. The gold is truly dazzling, especially around the truly spectacular Baroque double organ on either side. What a bombardment of dazzling ornaments! A little further on, we arrive at the Santa Barbara flower gardens , which offer some colorful scenes.

After lunch at Villa Galé, a restored hotel, we drive to Guimarães , the birthplace of Afonso Henriques, the country's first king. The medieval center proves to be remarkably well-preserved. At Olive Tree Square, with the Church of Our Lady of the Olive Tree , we visit the Palace of the Dukes of Braganza. I enjoy a refreshing pint on the richly terraced square. Before returning, we witness a massive, honking demonstration of truck drivers. Once back, we have a farewell cocktail, dinner, and pack our bags. We fly back tomorrow.