Far East Cruise (part 3): South Korea (Busan, Jeju, Incheon, Seoul) Taiwan (Keelung, Taipei, Kaohsiung) & Hong Kong.

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Between the lines I also try to touch on the following question: “Can South Korea, Taiwan & Hong Kong still withstand the breath of the Chinese Dragon?”

BUSAN (South Korea)

A carpet of kaleidoscopic colors, seafood flavors, an urban yet sparkling beach sensation—that's Busan. A delightful setting, at the foot of the Korean Peninsula, close to Japan and consequently one of the world's busiest ports with some 3.5 million inhabitants and the country's second-largest city. And yet with a unique outlook, away from the worldliness—that's what Busan is all about. A city backed by lush green mountainsides and meandering between endless ocean-washed coastlines.

It's 24°C here in mid-October, at the same latitude as Sicily. Our guide's name is, you'll never believe it, Kim. Besides Lee and Park, the most common name here. She introduces the driver: " Lee is an experienced driver! " Thank God for that .

The aesthetic highlight of this area is contained in the Temple by the Sea, Haedong

Yonggung (1376), nestled on dramatic cliffs with crumbling rocks amidst splashing waves, is a true Eastern fairy tale told through storied pagodas crowned with expressive lion statues that express a range of emotions. Along the way, we cross long, high bridges, encompassing the wide, double-decker Diamond Bridge (lit at night by some 60,000 lamps). They span several harbor inlets. Afterwards, we drive past breathtaking panoramic coastal views.

Haedong Yonggung is a sublime, fairytale-like shrine and place of worship in its atmosphere, rich ornamentation, and decorations, nestled in a remarkably idyllic spot against the coastal cliffs. But it requires effort. There's a lot of climbing and descending along difficult, broken paths and uneven stairs, but every effort offers a new reward full of surprises: all sorts of temples, statues, and sculptures rise up between the cliffs, against jagged rocks above a boisterous ocean. A magical experience: those waves, those colorful ornaments, the Sutra chants, and all those intricate architectural wonders with their vibrant colors and dazzling pictorial power. With Buddhas and their like, a feast for every sense. Among the many visitors, there are also Japanese "crossovers." I can't tell them apart, although I do get the impression that the Korean boys have more evenly cut heads, with that slightly unruly, short, coarse hair.

Looking out from the Oryuko Skywalk over the dividing line between the East and South Seas, I can be brief: it's a tourist attraction. With a kind of rag bag wrapped around your shoes to protect the glass floor, you practically walk above the sea. The see-through floor gives you the feeling of walking above the lapping waves. But the views of the two small Daemadi Islands and the districts of Busan, with its stereotypical, sterile apartment buildings along the coastline, are especially rewarding.

On the way back, I learn that the Korean Wars, despite the last shred of resistance here in the deepest part of the country, left a lasting impression on the Chinese and Japanese, respectively. This is also evident in the world's only true UN cemetery. And perhaps also strange: 40% Christians here compared to 60% Buddhists. Strange.

JEJU

At the terminal, I'm greeted by two girls in local costume, with whom I immediately have my picture taken, and they shower me with brochures and a massage gadget. Jeju is a holiday island not only for Koreans but also for the " Chipanese ," especially honeymooners and couples. Shanghai is a two-hour flight away, Tokyo also two hours, and Seoul 85 minutes.

It's a paradise for nature lovers thanks to the incredible diversity of landscapes and natural beauty, all packed into this tiny island. You can ski on Mount Halassa (a UNESCO World Heritage site), and there are hikeable volcanoes. One of them is called Seongsan Illchulbong, better known as Sunrise Peak. It's a massive, grassy crater. There are also many hiking trails and spots called Jeju Olle trails. There's an abundance of greenery and forests. Beaches with black, white, red, and gray sand meet turquoise waters, perfect for surfers and sunbathers. You'll find dramatic coastlines, even waterfalls cascading from high altitudes directly into the sea.

The Jeju Folklore and Natural History Museum showcases impressive lava rock formations and volcanic stones from which statues are sometimes carved, such as the remarkable, ever-present Dol Hareubang (Stone Grandfather who provides protective power). The folkloric and traditional Korean way of life is depicted in reconstructions with puppets and props, depicting scenes inside houses, rooms, and on fishing boats. It's striking, again, that domestic life takes place on the ground. Unique are the Haenyeo, the famous, resilient female divers who daily search for seaweed, conch shells (which you can blow), octopus, and other shellfish. Pure dried seaweed (without salt or sesame) and haliotis , abalone (in a shell) have a remarkably delicate flavor, the latter a delicacy that can grow up to ten centimeters in size.

Guide Takae Suzuki hands me a beautifully folded piece of floral paper (a mini-origami exercise) with the handwritten words: " Nice to meet you ." Inside is a sort of brief business card with her name, phone number, and the words, also in Japanese characters: "Ichigo Ichie ." I looked it up. It's a Japanese proverb, literally meaning "One Life, One Meeting." It teaches us to cherish every moment we encounter, precisely because it only comes once in a lifetime. This teaching stems from the philosophy of the Japanese tea ceremony in the 16th century . Takae is proud of her island : "We have no beggars, no thiefs, but plenty of raw fish ."

Then we go for a walk in the Halia Arboretum along a forest trail . A dose of serene tranquility and pure oxygen. I see rare plants, a bamboo forest, a moss garden, and enchanting orchids in places decorated with decorative lava stones . At the Dongun Traditional Market, I'm immersed in an orgy of local delicacies for next to nothing. I see completely unfamiliar preparations and food products, surprisingly peculiar, sometimes even slightly repulsive. The unique black pig and the Haenyeo's catch of the day prove to be the most worth scoring. A busy, but interesting experience, no doubt about it. Kamsahamnida (thank you).

INCHEON

Our guide's name is... Park. A walk in the park with Park today ? Not really. But first, we're going back on the road . Everywhere I see RO = road, I've already learned that.

And that journey takes us across a remarkable number of highways on bridges above practically waterless surfaces, like a network through the harbor and metropolis. This immediately illustrates the fundamental role of timing during the (cowardly, unexpected) Chinese invasion here. It had to take place at spring tide so that military ships could infiltrate as far inland as possible. And yes, at low tide, this is a strange, barren landscape with long, seemingly forlorn bridges and viaducts.

Park starts talking about the physical characteristics of Koreans, aiming to demonstrate differences compared to our perceptions of Eastern pancake-like, slit-eyed faces, thus subtly contrasting himself with… the Chinese. Their cheekbones are different, he says. And Korean jawbones are softened by the weather (especially the wind). He goes on and on. He discusses characteristics of Chinese, Mongolian, Korean, and Japanese people. And differences in language and customs, alongside more trivial traits. He concludes that they achieve high educational levels , but unfortunately have barely 0.7 children per couple, the lowest average of these countries. Where is he going with this? Then he starts talking about the habit of chewing octopus or squid and the world-renowned K-drama series "Parasite" on Netflix. That's where I stop. I don't watch Netflix and I don't do facial studies.

As a world traveler, I'm struck by how many places there are with war memorials, military cemeteries, and war museums. What does that say about our humanity? I spontaneously think of our Westhoek region, Waterloo, Sarajevo, Pearl Harbor, and so many other destinations I've visited. Hiroshima, too, on this trip. In Incheon, the Korean War against the Chinese and North Koreans is very much present, because it was here that horrific, unexpected, secretly long-prepared invasion once began.

We also visit the Landing Memorial Hall, erected to commemorate the centennial of the opening of Incheon Harbor in 1984. It welcomes us to the square in front, with authentic vintage tanks and other military vehicles. The central theme is the successful landing operation led by General Douglas McArthur in 1950 and offers a valuable insight into the course of events. The personal involvement in Park's explanation particularly touched me. Entire families are still separated for life by the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone). The North chose communism, isolation from and with foreign countries, indoctrination, and… poverty and famine, as well as nuclear weapons and mandatory ten-year military service. This stands in contrast to the Southern Republic, which quickly established itself as a democratic superpower and an economic mecca . Parkboy also talks about the North Korean refugees who, if they succeed at all (primarily via China), only talk about the famine there. A nation that publicly propagates ecstatic happiness and applauds its dictator with orgasmic glee, while they starve to death. It's unimaginable.

Just like in Japan, the public infrastructure is overwhelming and masterfully efficient. Hyundai and Kia offer super-sized luxury cars and VIP limousine coaches here; these aren't even available in Europe. We get to experience the pleasure of them on this excursion. The bus is chock-full of comfortable gadgets and has an overly decorated interior that, to my taste, comes across as a bit kitschy. What strikes me is that 90% of the cars here are white.

At the Wolmido Traditional Garden (a kilometer-long cultural walk), we're surprised by costumed drummers and a man dancing gracefully, performing acrobatic tricks with a long ribbon tied to his headdress, and doing all sorts of things with plates thrown aloft on a stick. Schoolchildren in matching uniforms and yellow hats follow in their wake. It turns out to be the day of the rice harvest celebration. Later, we see traditional farmers sifting rice and retying the stalks as was done manually in the old days. We see old farmsteads and their traditional way of life.

Nearby, Wolmido Island, developed as a tourist destination from 1918 onwards, was equipped with seawater baths, beaches, entertainment centres, botanical gardens and all sorts of attractions and facilities to attract visitors, especially during the summer months.

A short visit to a museum in an old bank building showcases examples of Incheon's old architecture and building styles. Then I venture into Chinatown, full of restaurants adorned with the familiar decorations: dragons, lanterns, tigers, and other frills. We conclude with a visit to Sinpo Market, once again showcasing a wide variety of stalls selling food, crafts, shoes, clothing, fruits and vegetables, consumer products, and a wide variety of everything . I'm allowed to sample what appears to be an ordinary hamburger. Quod non . They can't explain what it is, but, yum, I promptly order a portion. Five euros, probably the tourist price. Fun fact: this is also where the famous Jjajangmyeon (black soybean noodles), Korea's de facto national dish, supposedly originated . On the way back, Park concludes with: A fine is fine .

Since we're staying ashore overnight, we're treated to a dazzling local folklore show featuring unusual instruments. Colorful robes, brightly painted faces, and all sorts of giant fans accompany the vibrant music and dance.

After the show, cruise director Mos suggests: " You can now go to one of our bars, or go dancing with our orchestra, or to the disco, or go to the casino—you might be lucky, or to your suite where, maybe, you might also be lucky."

SEOUL

Seoul is only 27 km from Incheon as the crow flies, but in reality it is an hour and a half

Driving. The guide's meowing, poor English quickly makes me nod off. Seoul is very modern, with many high-rises and streets up to ten lanes wide, even right through the city center. We immediately get an hour to ourselves in Indansong, a pedestrian street that turns out to be a true shopping paradise for souvenirs and antiques. Although I'm not a shopper myself, I'm still amazed by the selection of strange knick-knacks, kitsch, sometimes pseudo-antiques, and here and there some nice little things. A hundred galleries present art: paintings, sculptures, everything.

Then it goes to the Bukchon Hanok Village, a neighborhood with new houses built in

Traditional Korean style (Joseon Dynasty period), with its characteristic curving roofs, beautiful doors, walled plots, and the occasional original accent. Many of these houses now serve as cultural centers, guesthouses, and teahouses. It's quite a climb up and down the narrow, steep streets, not exactly ideal for driving. There are crowds of people, and remarkably, many, especially Koreans, wear traditional costumes, making for some lovely photo opportunities. Yet, it remains a kind of island of relative tranquility in the midst of this hectic, ultra-modern city (despite the many tourists). From a certain point, we have a view of this dynamic metropolis, a global hub of technology, innovation, and culture. The rapid adaptation to the needs of residents and tourists is admirable, but the rather unremarkable cityscape makes me appreciate this neighborhood even more, as preserving its rich history and cultural heritage proves to be valuable after all.

Seoul, a capital with a long history dating back more than 2,000 years, was originally founded in 18 BC by the Baekje Kingdom, one of the three principalities then ruling this peninsula. It became the capital in 1394 under the Joseon Dynasty until 1910, when Korea was annexed by Japan. After World War II, Korea was liberated from Japanese rule, and Seoul once again became the capital of the Republic of Korea in 1948. The city experienced rapid growth with the construction of new buildings, roads, and other infrastructure. The 1960s and 1970s saw a surge in industrialization and modernization, resulting in significant social and economic changes. Seoul quickly became one of the largest cities in the world. In the 1980s and 1990s, the country underwent a period of democratization with the installation of a more Western-oriented government and the emergence of a strong civil society that brought improvements in human rights, freedom of speech, and political participation.

We return to the center for a typical lunch in a large authentically decorated

Restaurant. We're served a platter of half ground beef, half small pieces of vegetables and rice, and a tofu soup. But the side dishes are especially interesting: the delicious, healthy, typical, strong kimchi (fermented vegetables, mostly cabbage, lots of garlic and herbs), seaweed with sesame seeds, fish cake, bean sprouts, and lettuce leaves. And with it, a large pot of local beer.

Regarding the famous kimchi, the guide tells a funny anecdote about how an American immigration officer once told him that among the Asians, they always immediately pick out the Koreans. "We smell them!"

Back on the road. We pass not far from the once poor, now chic, hip Gangnam-Gu district.

the environment of the wealthy, somewhat snobbish inhabitants, known from the K-pop hit Gangnam Style by singer Spy, who took aim at their posh lifestyle while (horseback) dancing.

The highlight of the day is a visit to the impressive Gyeongbokgung Palace (1395). The entire complex boasts some 7,700 rooms. There are five other such palaces in Seoul, but this one is the largest and most beautiful. Its size is equivalent to several football fields.

We witness a majestic mega-spectacle of historical reconstructions of ceremonies and impressive battle scenes with hundreds of actors in traditional costumes, warrior gear including spears, shields, swords, bows and arrows, and waving banners and flags, accompanied by the beating of drums and other percussion, and the occasional loud gong.

We continue past temples and shrines surrounding enormous squares. And yes, everywhere again, those many visitors in traditional costumes with exuberant, frivolous dresses and sturdy suits with hats.

At first, I thought there was something (folkloric?) to celebrate. But no, it turns out these costumes are rented for a day to wander around this delightful setting of typical ornaments and traditional buildings. Read on for the many selfies that, of course, yield an abundance of Instagram-worthy shots.

We finish with the folklore museum, with displays about daily, domestic, and farming life from the past, as well as their cultural beliefs. I treat myself to some freshly squeezed persimmon juice to spend my last few coins. It's made from the kaki (a type of orange plum, incidentally, the national fruit of Japan). I learn one more fact about the Asian zodiac. My sign turns out to be the monkey, which stands for "talented." Just so you know.

AT SEA

After seven days of excursions until at least 2:30 PM (half-day tour) or 6:30 PM otherwise, we finally had two quiet days at sea, very welcome for recuperation and catching up on writing. A relaxing day as we sail the Yellow Sea, with a surprising number of fishing boats in the South China Sea.

After previously giving lectures on Japan, I'm now attending lectures on the tensions between North and South Korea, and the same between Taiwan and China. When I speak to people on the ground about this, I can confirm: they're not reassured, at least not when it comes to China.

In the afternoon, there's time for a cocktail demonstration, a complimentary mini-head massage, and pool and jacuzzi time, all around the pool deck. I sit down to write and am rewarded with a custom-made fresh margarita by bartender Joker and served by "my friend!" McKenzie and a smiling Karen.

The waitstaff consists mainly of the inevitable Filipinos and Black people from just about everywhere. I also regularly participate in the popular group quiz, where I occasionally help lead the team "The Internationals" to victory. Wonderful.

That evening, there's a show starring CD Mos himself. He starts with an impressive number featuring spectacular drumming, then sings "Sultans of Swing," combining rhythmic guitar with perfectly executed Mike Knopfler solos. He also performs "Baker Street," playing the sax parts and performing a Billy Joel piano piece, a Chuck Berry number complete with "Duck Walk," guitar solos up the neck, and more. And the man is about the same age as me. Respect!

KEELUNG (Taiwan)

What a heartwarming welcome! Small, young girls playing guitars and performing modest dances. A woman from the tourist board wearing a smiley face mask and cowboy hat, clapping and gesticulating as she sings a funny welcome song for us. We're immediately in the right mood.

From the port of Keelung, it's about a 40-minute drive to the enchantingly modern capital, Taipei. A visit to the beautifully renovated Confucius and Pao An Temples alone is worthwhile. These temples are revered symbols of Chinese Confucius culture, tradition, and religion. The peaceful Bao An Temple even won a UNESCO award in 2003 for the most successful restoration of a structure over 50 years old. This temple area, located at the confluence of the Tamsui and Keelung rivers, was once a center of worship. What makes these structures unique is that, unlike other temples on the island, the wood, stone, and craftsmen did not come from mainland China.

The many rituals, prayers, offerings, and the symbolic roles of dragons (good) and tigers (evil) continue to intrigue. Worshippers nod with burning incense sticks before various ornaments and altars. The colorful, detailed ornaments are a feast for the eyes and a challenge for photographers. It's moving to see how Eastern cultures transform their own beliefs and worship—be it dragons, elephants, cows, snakes, Buddhas, gods of all kinds, you name it—into magnificent, incense-soaked temples and shrines with elaborate decorations; into downright masterful, magical sacred art. The Bao-An Temple, crystal-clearly dedicated to Confucius, is one of the finest examples of this devout devotion I've ever seen in Asia. It's a gem of understated yet exuberant beauty.

It's striking that planes regularly fly very low over Taipei's city center on their way to the airport, yet they are surprisingly quiet. What about that Brussels.

Next, we visit Di Hua Old Market Street, a mix of tradition and modernity. Here, we're overwhelmed by all sorts of strange aromas and amazed by the diversity of nuts, seeds, herbs, spices, dried fruits, meat, and fish, mostly pre-packaged in plastic bags. This was once the main trading hub for Chinese medicine and exotic foods during the Japanese colonial period . I saw black sea cucumbers shaped like a cross between (sorry) a penis, a blood sausage, and a large turd. Just to show that among the many tempting delicacies, there are also some questionable foods, at least according to our Western tastes. Eggs cooked in urine. Anyone?

I refresh myself with a Taiwanese beer (or what do you think) while old ladies next to me

Giant glasses of ice cream topped with some kind of creamy fruit coulis are being eaten, as if they're munching on porridge. The covered sidewalks are decidedly colorful, and it's unclear how much prepared food is pre-packaged in plastic bags or scooped from large pots. The aromas are mouthwatering, the fires are enticing, there are fried oysters, fish tarts… too many to mention. Taiwanese people seem to be fanatic eaters. Street food stalls, snack bars, restaurants, whatever, the RE (Retail Food Service) is flourishing here within the hospitality industry. Apparently, apartments are even being sold these days, simply without a kitchen.

We finished with a photo stop at the pagoda-like, layered Taipei 101 tower, once the tallest skyscraper in the world, now surpassed by the Burj Khalifa in Dubai. It's now primarily a financial center and reportedly produces an unbeatable in-and-out crowd of businesspeople and professionals. Unfortunately, the queue for the high-speed elevator is at least an hour and a half long, but I caught a great glimpse of this impressive building in 2009, from the air, during a layover with Taiwanese Eva Airways. Funnily enough, Eva also turned out to be the name of our guide.

Afterwards, I'll go to the terminal building to use the regular Wi-Fi (not always readily available on board) to sync everything between my devices, as you can only use one at a time on board. The ship's satellite connection isn't ideal and is quite slow, and here we're just between two satellite zones.

Port buildings everywhere are a lifeline for sailors and crew, who, like junkies, consume their fixes of fast, steady internet connection.

Kaohsiung (Taiwan)

A sightseeing excursion to Tashu Village seemed well worth the effort, especially to see Fo Guan Shan, Taiwan's largest Buddhist monastery, which towers dazzlingly above the Kaoping River.

This enormous complex basks in the splendor of eight pagoda towers leading to a majestic Buddha shrine. So, I take a leisurely stroll into the city on the shuttle, with its wide avenues, spacious parks with tall fountains, and the ubiquitous dragon or tiger pagoda scrolls on mostly ultra-modern buildings. This port of call revealed most of its best secrets during the delightful, beautiful, and interesting inland cruise through various beautiful areas with varied impressions and fantastically beautiful modern architecture, ideally admired from the ship.

Hong Kong

What can I say? Hong Kong is wonderful . Hong Kong is something else. Sailing into it was already one of my biggest cruise thrills in my younger life. So I didn't want to miss it and was already on the observation deck at 4:50 am. The transition from pure darkness and the distant lights to the pale sunrise (6:25 am), with the gentle glimpse of bridges and more and more details of that gradually sharpening backlands , is a unique experience that I savor. These are the highlights of travel. Approaching from the sea. Sailing in. Seeing more and more. Focusing. Getting closer. Longing for the new, for a new discovery.

This former British colony (until July 1, 1997) is a unique location with a very important history as a melting pot between East and West, in terms of cultural and political-economic thinking. It has always held a special appeal for me. A region struggling, as a financially and economically capitalist society, against the rule of Chinese dictatorial, freedom-restricting domination, ultimately becoming a special administrative region within China under the principle of "one country, two systems." In March 2019, protests began against a bill that could have allowed extradition to mainland China. These uprisings grew into a movement focused on broader issues such as democratic reform, police brutality, and China's influence on Hong Kong's autonomy. China has won the case for now, which is understandable. A rather worrying issue.

But in the morning breeze, it's now time to enjoy the best a cruise can offer: cruising from the sea along the peninsulas and headlands, with poor or more affluent neighborhoods, and continuing past surrounding islands, slowly approaching the pinnacle: Hong Kong Island. Below The Peak, daubed with compact skyscrapers, I see a symphony of lights grow brighter and brighter, only to fade away again in the rush of dawn, with its final, stark pictorial statement: this is Hong Kong! Just around the corner, we'll dock in Kowloon, right next to where the typical green ferries constantly cross. I remember that so well. Here and there I spot an old sampan, but clearly fewer than, let's do the math, 37 years ago.

Unfortunately, the enjoyment is short-lived. We disembark very early and are surprised by the funny taxis

and the many bridges that connect all those headlands on the way to HKI Airport on Chep Lap Kok, that artificial stretch of airfield in the sea. An airport that, in my opinion, exudes that blend of East meets West in everything. A moment to catch my breath before the KLM flight home.

From Yokohama to Hong Kong, we sailed 2,605 nautical miles, or 4,820.46 kilometers. It was worth every mile.

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Between the lines I also tried to touch on the question: “Can South Korea, Taiwan & Hong Kong still withstand the breath of the Chinese Dragon?”

The phrase "resisting the breath of the Chinese Dragon" is often used to refer to the pressure China exerts on neighboring countries and regions, particularly in the areas of politics, economics, and security. South Korea, Taiwan, and Hong Kong each face China's influence in different ways, but each also has its own unique circumstances.

South Korea has a complex relationship with China. On the one hand, they are important

On the other hand, there are political tensions, particularly due to the presence of North Korea. South Korea has tried to balance its economic interests with its alliance with the United States, making it sometimes difficult to fully resist China's influence.

Taiwan has long been under pressure from China, which it considers Taiwan as a renegade province. China is attempting to isolate Taiwan in various ways: diplomatically, economically, and politically. Despite this pressure, Taiwan has maintained its sovereignty and strengthened its economy and democratic institutions.

Since Hong Kong 's handover to China in 1997, the city has faced increasing mainland influence. The 2019 protests and the subsequent implementation of the National Security Law have heightened concerns about Hong Kong's autonomy. While Hong Kong has historically been a major financial center, recent political developments have raised doubts about its ability to withstand China's influence.

I listened and spoke with professors and local natives, but what might happen remains a matter of apprehension. The comments were: complicated, delicate, tense, stressful . In Taiwan, a girl touched me, whose sigh summed up the most important thing: China or freedom? ... One thing is certain: please, no war .