Fascinating tour of Rajasthan, Land of the Maharajas (March 2020)

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Sparkling palaces, photogenic poverty and color, color, color (and smell)

WEDNESDAY 4/3: to Delhi

We fly with Aeroflot via Moscow to New Delhi, arriving at night, where we're given banners and a transfer to the Crowne Plaza Okhla 5* hotel. It's the middle of the night, but it feels like daytime, the hustle and bustle. It's extraordinary. Along the entire route, small and large, people live alongside the road, living in the most impossible structures made of corrugated iron, some wooden planks, pieces of plastic, jute, canvas, and cardboard. It's unbelievable. We immediately de-jet at the hotel.

Aeroflot: online check-in is convenient, of course; you get your ticket with an attachment on your iPhone. You can then use the QR code from your smartphone. No, Aeroflot wants a printed version. So, paper after all. How do they expect travelers to do that, or do Russians always travel with a portable printer or something?

THURSDAY 5/3: New Delhi

After too little sleep, a day trip follows to explore this Delhi (population 20 million). " I'm your guide, Boedie. If I try really hard, I might become Buddha ." In terms of startup humor for this not-quite-awake person, not exactly the best.

The city, which comprises Old and New Delhi, was founded in 1639 by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan , the creator of the Taj Mahal. Mahal means palace in its broadest sense. The smog here makes it one of the world's most unhealthy cities.

We visit the Jama Masjid , or Friday Mosque (1654), the largest in India with three entrance gates, simple in style, made of red sandstone with inlaid black marble. The courtyard can hold up to 25,000 worshippers. But what I find most appealing is the view of the city from this height, with below those teeming, trinket-and-all sorts of places full of characteristically dressed—sometimes quite shabbily dressed—Indians.

The Raj Ghat, Mahatma Gandhi 's mausoleum , is truly remarkable. A serene, low-lying park with an eternal flame, austere in black marble and dotted with orchids and famous sayings of the man. Not the gloriously superior vertical like so many monuments to great men. No, this is in keeping with the man. Harmonious, calm, simple, and soothing.

In the afternoon, we visit Raisina Hill , where the Parliament, Senate, and Presidential Palace were intended to reflect the grandeur of the British Empire, then under King George V (1911). We continue along the grand boulevard to India Gate , a kind of miniature Arc de Triomphe bearing the names of some 70,000 soldiers who died in WWI. Finally, we visit the Sikh temple Gurudwara Bangla Sahib, replete with golden domes, this time in white marble. Sikhs make up only 2% of the melting pot of religions here. Sikhs never cut their hair and wrap it in a turban made of seven meters of cloth. We conclude this district visit with a cyclo-rickshaw ride through the Shandni Chowk district in the old city, a den of honking cars and motorbikes, tuk-tuks, rickshaws, and stalls selling all sorts of things.

What a wonder: so much sound and stench. Dust and fumes. But scents and colors to the fullest. A tuk-tuk is simply a modified, refined Vespa. The Italian Vespa brand Piaggio is doing a roaring business here. All those tuk-tuks are from that brand. But when it comes to honking, the Indians give the Italians a piece of their mind. The horn turns out to be the most important driving element here. Steering skill turns out to be fidgeting skill. And oh yes, traffic signs are useful! So! Ignore them!

Traffic jams on congested 4-5 lane sections in the middle of New Delhi. Wait a minute, isn't the solution 6-7? Because anything that's even remotely operational or has been patched up sufficiently, well, they're going for it.

It is always distressing at intersections that while you are waiting, beggars or junk-selling crooks creep into your car to sell you whatever they want: a sip of water, a tissue, an amputated arm that begs… Learning to say no is always an inner operation of bad feelings, even though you know that, pointlessness, solution,… Oh, we can never grasp the world's suffering, and every human being is… I can't figure it out.

The impressive, magnificent "victory tower" Qutub Minar , 820 years old, 73 meters high with five stories, is a kind of gently sloping minaret, decorated with reproductions of verses from the Quran. It has been renovated many times after earthquakes and lightning strikes. Nearby lie the ruins of a mosque and a mausoleum filled with beautiful carvings in various reddish-brown hues. This UNESCO site is an impressive highlight. We conclude with the Red Fort Lal Qila , a symbol of the Mughal period (1648), frequently plundered. It has sturdy fortress walls, an audience hall, and imperial apartments. Small monkeys crawl around on the garden walls. In Agra, we will also visit a Red Fort, much more beautiful and larger.

FRIDAY 6/3: Delhi – Mandawa

Meet our guide , Sumeth , and our driver, Bharat (not Borat!). Sumeth has, sorry, a face reminiscent of a hardened criminal. Worse still is his English and his lack of clarity, which is often a sore point. (The photo below is not our guide.)

What surprises me is that most Indians' English is so difficult to understand, given their rather British colonial past. I even feel like you're better off in Indochina. For example, the hotel receptionist mumbles, "You pay vacation card?" I don't understand a word. She meant, "You pay by cash or card."

W e start today with a super long drive of seven hours for 270 km, towards Shekhawati , the northeastern region in this Land of Kings (Rajasthan) to the small town of Mandawa , along rickety, well, roads with small villages in an increasingly impoverished landscape, but full of activity along the road with the sale of mostly vegetables and fruit including lots of bananas, coconuts and pomegranates.

Along the route, there are occasional short stretches of "highway," toll roads even, and yes, there's a lost demonstration or something like that. But toll roads? Forget what you imagine; there are still potholes. Nothing stops even trucks with, say, loads of children. Highway or not, stalls selling Santa's boutiques flourish along the way. And we encounter religious processions, protest marches, a truck with a giant disco-loud radio. Mind-blowers, you know. And those sacred cows on the road, Suske and Wiske taught me that once. But it's definitely not a comic strip creation.

Mandawa, a small feudal principality, is known for its havelis , impressive mini-palaces built in the 18th century by wealthy merchants. These typical dwellings are uniquely decorated with countless murals. The city is considered an open-air art gallery with these countless 18th-century residences, houses of wealthy merchant families, filled with vibrant frescoes painted with well-preserved natural pigments. These frescoes depict religious and earthly motifs, stories of legends, and portraits. We will have dinner and overnight at the Vivana Culture Hotel 4*, an enchanting place.

What a welcome! We have to climb a small slope to a large gate.

A man in folkloric costume plays a welcome melody on a strange, unfamiliar instrument. Just inside, rose petals suddenly flutter over us, and we're stunned by the beauty of this courtyard, an orgy of refined, fairytale-like architectural twists and balconies, filled with dreamy, enchanting murals. Add to that the hotel owner, who acts as if we're his first and only guests ever.

receives. It's truly something. At first glance, our room resembles a cell with its heavy door and immense lock. The path to it leads through inner patios, stairs, and pink walls and ornaments everywhere. And even here and there, vintage posters and old models of carriages. I have no idea why, but I've never slept so deeply. One thing is certain: havelis are fairytales, utterly authentic, yet out-of-your-mind and far removed from our world.

Dismay: Hindustan (ancient name for India) is implementing anti-coronavirus measures. A group of Germans is turned away from our hotel because one of them has an Italian passport, even though he's lived in Germany for a long time. At that time, the virus was raging spectacularly in the media in Italy. This meant they had to drive seven hours back to Delhi at night to get him tested. How fortunate that Nella now has a Belgian passport.

SATURDAY 6/3: Mandawa – Bikaner

We wake up to awful weather and very heavy rain. We decide to skip visiting a few havelis because the journey to Bikaner promises many delays and obstacles (190 km, but many hours). The massive downpours have made our bumpy route impassable, which means a detour. Sometimes through deep puddles that reach the very edge of our doors. Super exciting. And then there's the tangle of carriages and trucks in every direction, trying to pass through and past some sections of undeveloped roads. What an adventure! We seem to be swimming more than driving. But our driver doesn't seem to mind. And all that mud. Pretty apocalyptic.

Thankfully, the rain stops after a while, and everything clears up immediately. The landscape becomes increasingly arid, browner, and more beige, but with areas where the wealthy can drill for groundwater up to 170 meters deep, thus cultivating contrasting green crops in these precursors of the Thar Desert.

Sacred cows and street dogs sometimes sleep in the middle of the road, when they're not constantly crossing the streets. It's almost like a national sport. And those cows, what a difference from Belgian cows. Indian cows have a hump or a long uvula on their throats, and they're always thin. In short, Belgian cows have a "thick neck." Here and there, we spot a dromedary as a pack animal for some cart or other.

Or team. It seems like cows only vegetate on public roads. But why do dogs decide to nap in the middle of an intersection? And when a group of goats or sheep or whatever needs to cross the road, it turns out they've been waiting for us to arrive. A gas station consists of a small shack with only two men: one fills the tank, the other cashes out. Life can be easy.

I ask my supervisors about car insurance, driving licenses, what to do in case of an accident, and so on.

Whatever they say, it's completely unclear, but oh la la, it turns out to be a sensitive topic, to say the least . Along the road, large billboards with pictures of students boasting "passed with 93%" and such. It's a good thing, because it's meant to encourage young people to study. Not exactly a given in this country. It's a phenomenon: young students suddenly become shining, star-like role models.

Bad roads and yet a lot of slurping traffic, with all sorts of (hardly any) vehicles zipping in from all directions at once. Near Narnaul, we pass a huge statue of Hanuman , a Hindu monkey god. I'll probably never make sense of all those Hindu gods...

I'm trying to immerse myself in this Hindu culture, from the strange, shabby people to the Motley Muftis. Shiva is the blue and gold one who plays the flute, Ghanesha is the elephant with various trunks, and then there's Vishnu, Krishna, "the evil eye"—all a completely incomprehensible world for us Westerners. I once read Siddhartha by Hermann Hesse. I don't remember anything about it now.

We pass more Hindu temples, some with inverted swastikas, which is a bit of a shock, but they turn out to represent happiness and prosperity. Bare villages, abandoned houses, dilapidated buildings, depressing, harrowing scenes of poverty. The meager agricultural opportunities explain the flight to the city. That city, by contrast, is crumbling and doesn't even offer solutions. Quite the opposite, in my opinion.

It's interesting that all large vehicles have stickers saying: "Blow your Horn." Which means: Honk! In short, honking is encouraged as a sort of "whatever" alternative to swerving everywhere.

After arriving, we visit the city of Bikaner , including the Junnagarth Fort , built in the 15th century like a veritable eagle's nest, a mile and a half outside the city center, though not even on a hill. Covering some five hectares, it features diverse architectural styles, as sixteen generations of rulers each added to their own "territory." The complex is built primarily of red sandstone and marble, but richly decorated with gold-colored sandstone. The complex is full of charming courtyards and balconies in the local style. There are no fewer than seven gates, and Hindu and Jain temples are scattered throughout. One of them, the Bhandasat Jain Temple (1514), is clearly built in the Rajput style, with its unique pillars carved with floral arabesques, murals, and all that gold leaf. On another gate, we see cannonball impacts, silent witnesses to one of the last battles.

Surprise ... new government rules . In Bikaner too. All tourists, including us, must now have corona.

Being tested and examined by a doctor, partly because "Belgium is close to France, which is close to Italy." It was a funny moment, though. A medical team of five, wearing face masks and stethoscopes, did something with our finger. Then they measured our fever and asked how we were feeling. We were allowed in.

Afterwards, we'll take a tuk-tuk ride through the picturesque bazaar, followed by a heritage walk in the old city, strolling through the narrow streets where we'll visit several centuries-old, hauntingly beautiful havelis , such as the Rampuria haveli , with its exquisite wood carvings. It's surreal. We'll spend the night at the expansive Vesta Palace 4*.

SUNDAY 7/3: Bikaner – Jaisalmer

On to Jaisalmer (330 km), the perfect example of a typical fortified desert fortress and a mandatory stop for the passing caravans of opium and spices. This "golden city," known for its multicolored sandstone buildings, lies on the edge of the Thar Desert and once controlled trade between India and Pakistan. Along the way, the trucks crammed with goods, or even people, stagger over the bumps in the road. And again, those cows leisurely cross the road, just as we arrive. And of course, accidents sometimes happen, but believe it or not, there's a cow hospital here where injured animals receive the best care and, if incurable, a guaranteed pension. 650 cows live there, cared for by seventy people, all paid for by donations from Hindus and even non-Hindus.

We spend the night in the classy hotel Rawal Kot 4* with rooms around a beautiful courtyard and

A swimming pool, offering stunning views of the impressive old town and its fortress. You can also stay in super-deluxe glamping tents. For the spectacular orange sunset, we don't even have to go to the touristy Sunset Point , a cremation site and perfect sunset viewpoint. We see the same from the pool of this wonderful hotel.

At our hotel, a father and his son, traditionally dressed, put on a mini puppet show. As a warm-up, some music is played. The little boy sits and is accompanied by drumming and other such things. But we've seen something like that before. What are you supposed to do? They probably realized we're Belgian and suddenly start singing Frère Jacques in an Indian style. They insist: come to our show, just five minutes. We're the only ones. What are you supposed to do? Because it's all about begging for money, of course. Besides, you can't pee or wash your hands anywhere here without a man with a napkin coming to dry you off, but then, of course, an outstretched hand quickly follows. We do it.

MONDAY 8/3: Jaisalmer

Today we begin with an extensive walking tour of the medieval city of Jaisalmer , also known as the "Hill of Jaisal," named after a 12th-century Rajput king. The city is somewhat reminiscent of Carcassonne, with its lower houses nestled in a maze of alleys filled with eateries and shops, evoking an atmosphere reminiscent of the Arabian Nights. The Rajputs , once a powerful and wealthy landowning caste, were historically very influential from the 7th century through the 15th and 17th centuries.

We visit the Maharaja Palace with its numerous mosaics and paintings, several more havelis, impressive Jain temples (12th-16th centuries), and more. This fort, towering 76 meters above the lower city, is a city in itself. The Maharajas lived there with their households, the Brahmins (priests), and the Rajput (warriors and kings), all the highest caste. Once numbering 5,000, it now has 4,000 inhabitants. It has a fortified wall nine kilometers long with 99 bastions (17th century). We continue our walk through the bazaar and past many beautiful havelis with elaborately carved balconies. It's hot. A Kingfisher beer is more than welcome.

Gadisar Lake is another, rather idyllic spot. This man-made water feature features several small pavilions where Maharajas sought refuge. The central gateway is called Timon Ki Pol (14th century), named after a courtesan, where you literally walk under her legs. To avoid scandal, a small temple was quickly built.

In the evening, a magical evening awaits us in Sam (40 km away), in the heart of the Thar Desert, full of dunes and barren rocks. It's a touristy spot, but quite charming, with camels everywhere, carrying visitors who ride among the impressionistic dune waves, taking photos, and waiting for the sunset over the desert horizon. I trudge through the soft sand on my sputum-like, babbling, floundering camel. It turns out my friend's name is Michael Jackson . But I call him Trophy . Got it? He keeps babbling and spitting like there's no name for it. Oh, and… a camel fart. I don't want to make too much of a fuss about it. Let's call it "a special experience."

In the end it is quite a memorable camel ride and, after the sunset, on the way to the

In the folklore arena, my driver treats me to a wild, bumpy camel sprint. We're not impressed with the show, and the snacks are meager. But the desert moment yields friendship and many photos with an Indonesian family whom, honestly, we'll encounter a few more times later in the trip. They love taking pictures with my blonde Nella. A few heartwarming moments with the children and family spice up the evening.

TUESDAY 9/3: Jaisalmer – Jodhpur

Drive to Jodhpur (a five-hour drive), where we'll explore the "Blue City" in the afternoon, famous for its blue houses. I learn a lot along the way. City names ending in PUR were originally Hindu settlements. Ending in PAT means Muslim. The most common truck brand is Tata , an Indian brand. Side note: our Tintin is also called Tata here. In a conversation about Bollywood, we mention the film PK (Peekay), filmed almost entirely in Bruges. Our guides are familiar with the film, a huge hit in India.

The city of Jodhpur (the second largest in Rajasthan, after Jaipur) lies in the middle of the desert at the foot of a fort. It appears as a comforting oasis for travelers who have just crossed the Thar Desert. The old city is surrounded by a wall with seven gates, built around the mid-sixteenth century, with a circumference of almost ten kilometers, which also protects against the sand.

The highlight is the beautiful Mehrangarh Fort (1460) , named after its current owner, the

Jodhpur Maharaja , built on the top of a hill, 125 meters high. So, with a magnificent view of the city, it opens with a succession of seven monumental gates, with Jai Pol as the main entrance where we undergo another routine COVID-19 check. The complex covers approximately 5 square kilometers and exudes the power of the former rulers. On one of the Iohapols (iron gates), we discover the handprints of Maharaja Man Singh 's widows , who sacrificed themselves on his funeral pyre in 1843. And the sharp iron spikes were there for defense against enemy elephants. Down a long ramp with several monumental gates, we continue. Fortunately, we can take a giant elevator to the fort, which houses several palaces, temples, and museums, a veritable maze of corridors, staircases, and courtyards. We make our way through the many courtyards, surrounded by palaces and temples with uniquely sculpted facades and magnificent views.

The fort's museum contains numerous artifacts, including weapons, sabers, swords, daggers, small guns, palanquins, and howdahs, which were capsules and harnesses for compartments used to seat people on elephants. Many rooms contain collections of miniatures, and the Takhat Mahal room is decorated with mirrors and paintings featuring colored glass balls suspended from the ceiling. The Taj Jankhi boasts a stunning collection of royal cradles, clothing, furniture, and musical instruments. Next, we visit Jaswant Thada , the white marble royal mausoleum of Maharaja Singh II , built in 1899. We will be staying overnight at the Fairfield by Marriott 4* .

Today is Holi-Phagmo , this festival in March is a kind of local equivalent of our Easter. Tomorrow we'll have all sorts of festivities around fires,

Experience musical extravaganzas and the folkloric throwing of colored powder at each other. Video link . This produces some strange effects here and there, and funny faces from, especially, youngsters soaked in dye.

WEDNESDAY 10/3: Jodhpur – Ranakpur – Udaipur

The drive to Udaipur (280 km) is literally colored by the esbattements just described. This makes for wonderfully special photos.

We pass roads lined with acacia trees, springs, and women carrying gold or silver jugs on their heads. In Pali, I eat the house specialty, an incredible Dhal Makhani , a whole-wheat black lentil stew with homemade creamy ghee (churned butter). We visit the Jain temples in Ranakpur , which seem to hide in the Aravalli Mountains, a green oasis teeming with flora, life, and tigers. We didn't see a single tiger. Monkeys, however! But we are pleasantly surprised by the beauty of this region!

The largest temple is dedicated to Adinath, built in 1439. It is one of the five Jain pilgrimage sites. It is full of striking domes, vaults, and shikharas (typical Jain turrets). The whole is supported by 1,444 light-colored marble pillars. The marble vaults are carved in an extraordinary way and dominate the 29 chambers. All the pillars are fully engraved; none are identical. The ceremonial, sacred movement of worshippers in dazzling, spotless white robes wearing face masks throughout the temple, with its many smaller temples, each honoring different deities, makes it almost otherworldly.

This religion professes not to kill animals. This sometimes goes to extremes, such as wearing face masks to avoid swallowing insects, and sweeping the floor before stepping on it to avoid killing any. Wearing or using leather is also forbidden, as it comes from dead animals. They are, of course, fundamentally vegetarian. It is also a religion of asceticism, peace, harmony, and respect for nature and living beings. Preaching peace, through this religion, formed the foundation of Gandhi's faith and philosophy. See also peace and balance, Ayurveda, etc.

We leave this temple, a symphony of pillars in white marble with the intense scent of

incense behind us and drive on to Udaipur, a city with narrow, lively streets, small houses, balconies and small windows. Meanwhile, we continue to see traces of the Hindu Holi festival everywhere (colored powders all over the place or, say, residue in the hair of a chambermaid or waitress).

We can't do everything, so we leave the 15th-century Kumbhalgarh Fort behind and maneuver further along ravines and dense jungle through mountains teeming with baboons , monkeys with very long tails, and trees teeming with bats. We stop at a photogenic scene of an ox team with an old man in a turban. They circle to crank a watermill. Sandalwood is also harvested in the region, used as incense, in cosmetics, and as expensive firewood for the wealthy during their cremations. We enter Mewar , a region in southern Rajasthan.

Some reflections on Indians and their customs. A bunch of local, jumping and

Cheering children around you is always fun. But when they only know one word and constantly shout "money, money, money," the fun quickly goes out the window. Holding the door open without asking, a questioning look, all services taken from you, sitting there quietly, friendly, putting on a show. And then the begging moment: just standing there with that look of "I'm not asking for anything, but is there anything else?" And if you give something, an angry look is guaranteed to follow, expressing: "Is that all?" with very clearly disapproving body language. It's not great, and I understand they depend on it, but with table service, service is already included, and I don't know how much tax is added to the bill.

People try to make money by seeing the plight of tourists. It can even lead to absurdities. Like showing you the way to the restroom, right under a "Toilets" sign, and then asking for a tip for that service. Besides, every traveler understands "toilets." In the United States, the word restroom takes some getting used to, but in India, they're suddenly washrooms. So peeing here is washing. Waiters need to learn to give you a little freedom. When they hover around you, lurking to clear things away, refill the pour, or hand over napkins, I quickly feel like I'm being watched. A waiter then becomes a kind of sergeant patrolman, constantly pacing stiffly, hands behind their back, keeping an eye on you. Not very pleasant. Even though they usually have nothing else to do. Video link => characteristic Rajasthan people .

We spend the night in the wonderfully spacious Justa Rajputana 4*, where each room is a lovely little house in a well-maintained park.

THURSDAY 11/3: Udaipur

What a "fairytale city!" We'll soon discover the old City Palace, which dominates Udaipur 's lake . It was the capital of the former Mewar Empire and a location full of picturesque spots and panoramic views. It's a bit confusing at the pier to embark on a mini-cruise on Lake Pichola , from where you can admire the magnificent facade of the City Palace dominating the lake. It also makes for a pleasant stop at Jag Mandir Island , where a beautiful hotel stands. In the middle of the lake, another remarkable luxury hotel building on the water, the chic Taj Lake Palace , steals the spotlight.

The city boasts four lakes, numerous palaces, and a rich history. It's a popular destination for domestic tourists and a prime location for wealthy weddings. I'm not a photographer like my brother Tom and many friends like Greet, Herlinde, and many others. But there's so much beauty to be found here. I'm photographing like crazy.

The palace was built in 1599 and a part of it is still inhabited by the descendants of Mharana of Udaipur .

The complex is an amalgam, a labyrinth, of decorated marble halls, courtyards, abundant ceramics, and gardens. This location was used in the James Bond film Octopussy . Its construction and completion took approximately 400 years. The complex actually comprises eleven palaces, all of marble and granite, a symphony of frescoes, balconies, mirrors, silverwork, inlaid work, and stained glass. All of this is connected by zigzagging passageways and courtyards. A museum displays costumes, ancient weapons, silver, miniatures, and, yes, vintage classic cars.

Even though it's forbidden, I managed to film a truly mystical Hindu ceremony in the city . Enchanting! Fascinating. A gray-bearded guru, some drums and percussion, a fire, everyone sitting on the floor, chanting. Next to the staircase entrance with a flower seller, a ragged, one-legged beggar lies asleep in the shadow of a stone elephant next to the entrance. Shops and bazaars here are pleasant, varied, and attractive.

We visit Jaswant Thada , a Rajput- style mausoleum made of finely polished marble. A warm, glowing monument adorned with portraits of Rathore rulers (13th century), frescoes, statues, imposing domes, and pillars. In front of it stands a marble statue of Maharaja Jaswant Singh II on horseback.

Another excursion takes us to the Sahelian Ki-Bari, the "Garden of the Ladies," also known as the "Courtyard of the Virgins." A dowry story, I understand. It turns out to be an atmospheric park with many fountains, kiosks, and avenues lined with flowerbeds. A babbling serenity, lotus ponds nestled among banana and various palm trees. Once outside, a strange, shiny vintage car awaits its owner, perhaps smoking a cigar.

Speaking of Indian food : If there's one cuisine where the vegetarian option will never leave you hungry, it's Indian food. I love the variety of flavors and curries. For those who only swear by sausage with applesauce or our national steak: get a life!

Dahl, those delicious lentil pots, chapati (round rolls), naan (a kind of flatbread), papadums (a kind of crispy giant chips), paneer (flavorless cheese). The Mugh Khurchan with pea pilau is especially succulent, a very complex dish with dozens of herbs, vegetables, grated cheese, and a whopping 28 cooking steps. And of course the tikkas, the biryanis, creamy and sometimes deliciously hot thanks to all those capsicums (chili and bell peppers) and masalas. I'm crazy about them. But for Nella, it's an ordeal. Invariably too spicy for her. I asked: not spicy! Oh, sorry, sir... That happened seven times...

Another problem. There's no coffee machine anywhere. At breakfast, there are only large thermoses that spit out a kind of grayish stew. Sometimes there's even milk in it. I refuse and ask for real coffee. The maid promptly pours me a cup of lukewarm water with a bit of Nescafé powder in it.

FRIDAY 12/3: Udaipur – Jaipur

Today we travel to Jaipur , the vibrant capital of Rajasthan (398 km = 7 hours), but with some stretches of road that are a bit better. A true "highway," a four-lane highway, cuts right through hamlets, still teeming with people on the sidelines, with stalls or sleeping under a plank, a corrugated sheet, or a sail-like structure. A "motorway" with occasional speed bumps, truly.

Jaipur owes its nickname "Pink City" to its pink buildings, which were once transformed into salmon pink for the visit of Edward VII, Prince of Wales, in 1827. This is the Rajput color for hospitality. Jaipur was built on the bed of a dry lake in a barren landscape, surrounded by arid hills and known for its forts and crenellated walls.

First, eleven kilometers from Jaipur, we experience an absolute highlight: Amber Fort , the residence of the Maharajas , founded by Raja Man Singh , still standing ready for a possible war (UNESCO since 2013). A wonderful piece of rich history. We make the uphill journey to the fort on the back of a painted and clothed elephant and return by 4x4 jeep. A tourist attraction (about 5,000 a day), yes, but incredibly unique. We have to queue up on a platform and then sit sideways on the elephant's back in a seating structure.

Meanwhile, jostling hawkers get to work offering all sorts of souvenirs, including Maharaja turbans. Even though we constantly refuse everything, they keep bargaining and insisting, refusing to let go, and keep walking uphill with us. Finally, I give in to buy one of those enchanting headdresses for next to nothing, which will look stunning in photos later and become a highlight of my already extensive collection of hats from around the world. At home. You can't buy a real turban because you have to wrap it yourself. They're ready-made. The sight of all those colorful pachyderms walking along the walls with tourists to the fort is truly unforgettable.

Once inside the large, central, and impressive courtyard, we realize the sheer size of this location (four square kilometers) and descend to a raised platform. The first courtyard was primarily used for military parades and special occasions. Surrounding it are the sleeping quarters for soldiers and horses, with a grand staircase leading from there to the magnificent Gansh Pol (Ganesha's Gate), from where we proceed to the private quarters of the royal family. Through carved windows, women could observe life on the square, which at the time was only accessible to men.

The Diwann-I-Am is a platform supported by 27 pillars, a structure in the second courtyard that served as a kind of audience hall. Adjacent to it is a colonnade where officials performed their duties.

I ask our guide, who claims the kings lived in their summer palace in the summer: Where did they live in the winter? He says: In a different place. One of the kings weighed 250 kg and wore trousers four meters wide. Yet, he had nine wives… Just to fit into those trousers?

The private quarters of the Maharaja and his family are located in a third courtyard, with the Sheesh Mahal , a palace filled with glass and mirrors built into the ceiling. When the flames of oil lamps reflected everywhere, the room lit up like a twinkling starry sky. Incidentally, all the glass and mirrors were imported from the Netherlands.

The Amber Fort also features courtyards, which were supplied with water through a clever irrigation system, thus providing the necessary refreshment. Finally, in the fourth courtyard, we find the harem's rooms, with small rooms and balconies. The headmistresses had their private rooms connected by secret passageways to allow the Maharaja's activities to proceed without arousing excessive suspicion and jealousy among the others.

Also worth mentioning is that this fort was once connected by a tunnel to Jaigarth Fort (1726) for defense (3 km long and 1 km wide). This fort houses the " jaivana ," the longest wheeled cannon at the time, an armory, and, of course, a palace and museum (not visited).

Finally, we attend a Puja ceremony at the Kali Temple , albeit barefoot and again without any leather. Upon arrival, we check into the hotel and then explore the market at our leisure. Overnight stay at Fern Residency 4*.

SATURDAY 13/3: Jaipur

Today we explore Jaipur's city center, built after Amber became too small for Jai Singh II and his court. It was founded according to a strict plan from the Hindu Arthashastra , intended to project the image of the cosmos and reflect the social order of the four castes, hence the wide boulevards and the city walls. Naturally, the city walls expanded beyond these walls, expanding into districts (now with a population of 2.5 million). At the center is the City Palace , built by Sawai Jai Singh II (1732). The current Maharaja still resides there. We'll visit the various halls and the courtyard with its beautifully decorated gates and ornately dressed guards. There's an interesting costume museum full of captivating outfits, robes, and ceremonial attire, as well as a weapons museum.

We stop at the remarkable "Palace of the Wind" Hawa Mahal (1799). This iconic, otherworldly building boasts a Baroque facade and imaginative and functional architecture with no fewer than 953 decorated, protruding windows. This allowed the women of the court harem to discreetly observe street life and parades without being seen themselves. It is uniquely beautiful, but before it, the busy, beautiful, and sometimes ugly, life goes on as usual. Here too, there are mopeds crammed with entire families, carts, and never-seen-before carriages. Speeding unrestrictedly through the built-up area seems obligatory. And I've already seen three dead dogs.

This is followed by a visit to the Jantar Mantar astronomical observatory (1734), a testament to Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II's passion for astronomy. He commissioned several astro-observatories, including the one in Jaipur (1728-1733). These contain instruments that still accurately map the movements of the Earth, latitude and longitude, the Sun, and celestial bodies. Among them is the world's largest sundial. Scientifically fascinating.

We conclude with a rickshaw ride among the sputtering, honking, and clanging tuk-tuks, rickshaws, and mopeds through this vibrant, bustling Pink City. There are several more forts, mausoleums, and museums, which unfortunately we don't have time for, such as Jal Mahal , the Water Palace, which sits on an artificial lake, also built by Jai Singh II. In short, Jaipur is worth several days.

I'm fascinated by those special Indian jackets with high collars, and Nella by the beautiful colorful fabrics. This is the ideal place to order affordable tailor-made clothing. Our measurements are carefully taken, samples, patterns, and materials are selected, and they are delivered to our hotel that evening.

SUNDAY 14/3: Jaipur - Fatehpur Sikri - Agra

On the way to Agra (209 km) with its promise of the world wonder Taj Mahal, we explore

Fatehpur Sikri , the former temporary capital from the Mughal emperor Akbar's period (1596), boasts a more Baroque architecture than the Delhi Fort. This city, though called the "City of Victory," was abandoned just a few years after its construction, likely due to a shortage of drinking water. Rajasthan is a fundamentally arid region with a very deep groundwater supply. However, the blend of different styles by indigenous builders from diverse cultural backgrounds and traditions made it a spectacular site. The brownish, red, orange, and beige color patterns are particularly striking and create a harmonious whole.

A cramped shuttle bus takes us to the site, built on a ridge and protected on three sides by a wall and one by a lake. We visit, among other things, the Jama Masjid Grand Mosque , a place of pilgrimage, with the Buland Dawaza Gate, a victory arch. Central to the square is the tomb of Sheikh Salim Chisti , Akbar's inspiration, the private audience hall with its mosaic ceiling, and a corridor with a geometric design, all in white marble this time, including a giant chessboard.

Among the sights we visit are a public one, the Diwan-I-Am , and a private audience hall, the Diwan-I-Khas , with its octagonal post and central pillar on a square base.

Interestingly, Emperor Akbar , despite being illiterate, was deeply interested in literature, architecture, and art. He surrounded himself with advisors from diverse religions and backgrounds and even married a Christian, a Muslim, and a Hindu woman, each with their own palace. This made him a tolerant ruler. What an interesting insight! It proves that being open to other perspectives leads to a human learning tool. Now, Wim, he just needs to find a Hindu and a Muslim wife.

Then we drive to Agra, a city of Mughal emperors (mogul) of the 16th and 17th centuries.

century that made it the capital, before Delhi was chosen. Overnight stay in a hotel Crystal Sarovar Premiere 4*, from where we can see the dome of the Taj Mahal through our hotel window . Exciting already.

MONDAY 15/3: Agra - Delhi

Today we spend the entire morning visiting one of the seven wonders of the world, the Taj Mahal .

First of all, let's dispel a common misconception. This building isn't a mosque, but a mausoleum, built by Emperor Shah Jahan as a tomb for his favorite wife, Mumbai Mahal , even though he supposedly had 340 wives. She died in childbirth while giving birth to their fourteenth child. So I wonder, what if that guy did the same to the other 339? Sure. Legend has it that his heartbreak caused him to turn gray overnight.

You can't drive directly to the Taj Mahal. The entire complex is protected by a radius of several kilometers to avoid pollution. Therefore, we have to continue on foot or by horse and cart. And guess what we did...

The Taj Mahal complex is a massive site with numerous gardens, fountains, outbuildings, a mosque, a guest list, and so on. There are a staggering number of visitors and a great many photographers, so-called "portrait takers." They offer their services to sell the "ideal" photo of a couple against the backdrop. Even if we say no to one of them, he keeps following us and tries to push us when we try to take a selfie. Fortunately, quite a few people ask each other for photos together. And there are some quite flattering ones, especially of my wife in her dazzling new dress made of beautiful Indian fabric.

The world monument (1643) of gleaming white marble (73 meters high) was originally covered with countless precious stones, unfortunately later stolen by British soldiers. It lies on the southern bank of the Yamuna River . The emperor originally wanted to be buried in a similar, but black, monument on the other side of the river. It never happened. But he now lies with her deep within the Taj Mahal. Although there are replicas of the sarcophagi that we can visit in the central dome.

Ultimately, it's a sad story. The construction was, of course, a drain on the treasury. His son, Aurangzeb , then deposed his father and imprisoned him in the Red Fort (see below), though from there he could still see the splendor of his ode, the mausoleum for his wife. A tragic and sad story.

The Taj Mahal, influenced by Persian and Mughal styles (Mogul: the ruling class of Islam between the fifteenth and seventeenth centuries), stands on a raised platform and was built very symmetrically, with its large round dome and four minarets. The exterior decorations are based on calligraphy from the Quran, geometric shapes, floral motifs, and fauna, painted or engraved in stone or stucco. Although there are no human images due to certain Quranic injunctions, what a magnificent beauty it is. Inside, the decorations are even more opulent, with engravings, floral motifs, geometric shapes, and inlaid panels.

Then there's the entire approach to the monument and the gardens, laid out in a Persian pattern, four sections each with four flowerbeds, covering a whopping 300 square meters. In the center lies a marble water feature, now known as the Lady Di bench (see photo above with Nella). The gardens were intended to be a kind of earthly paradise filled with plants, trees, flowers, and fountains, thus symbolizing fertility and abundance. 20,000 workers built them. The principal architect was Isa Khan of Iran. Unfortunately, the Taj Mahal fell into disrepair in the 19th century after frequent looting, but the site was later renovated and restored to its former glory, albeit with a slight British touch.

In the afternoon, we visit the Red Fort of Agra , built by Akbar between 1566 and 1573 to meet the need for a military fort from which to govern the growing Mughal Empire . Red Fort is named for the red sandstone quarried in the region. In an effort to create an impregnable citadel, Akbar ordered that it be surrounded by monumental towers nearly 2.5 kilometers long and 15 meters high.

This largest fortified stronghold of the Mughal Empire contains as many as 500 buildings and several gaths , which are series of steps leading to a body of water, the Yamuna River.

Inside the fort, we visit numerous royal pavilions, mosques, and palaces. From the balconies, you have a beautiful view of the river and the Taj Mahal. My thoughts naturally turn to Shaj Jahan , the builder of this fort and the Taj Mahal, who left his will for his beloved, later imprisoned here by his own son. (His view: see photo).

During a drive to admire the Taj Mahal from various vantage points, we enter Mehtab Bach (Moonlight Garden), a Mughal garden complex across the river. And in Sikkandra , a suburb, we see Emperor Akbar 's tomb (1613) in the distance with its southern main gate and four minarets, nicknamed the "little Taj Mahal." Everywhere you see drying clothes, sheets, and pieces of fabric in hundreds of colors, sometimes simply laid out on the grass to dry (if there is any grass, that is).

Then comes the return trip to Delhi and the same hotel as the first day. There follows the difficult issue of tips. They insist on it because, they say, it's fundamental and necessary on top of their wages. But a tip is a reward for me. And Sumeth's guiding was terribly subpar, and his English was practically incomprehensible. We needed our driver more. The confrontation of our meager appreciation after twelve days together is painful. And then there's something else that's strange.

What's the point of constantly having to fill out evaluation forms? Someone brings me a cup of coffee, and I already have to fill out a form with my opinion of their service. Sometimes they even say: "mention me." Absurd. After checking out, I have to fill out a questionnaire in front of a receptionist (with a name tag), where I'm asked to enter the name of someone who provided a special service. If I don't fill it out, he says: "This is my name." I never even saw the man two minutes before, and his special service? And then it has to be handed over anonymously in a box or... to them. The true devaluation of the evaluation.

TUESDAY 16/3: Departure from Delhi

After breakfast, we went to the airport for our flight home again with Aeroflot . A journey time of 15 hours and 25 minutes. After countless checks, Nella's e-cigarette holders were confiscated. No amount of trying to help. And then we had to wait in a cramped waiting room with people huddled together on the floor. The coronavirus seemed a long way off. The Airbus A330 (400+ passengers) from Delhi to Moscow was fully booked. We were crammed together for seven hours without face masks. We heard that the Taj Mahal was closed after our visit due to the coronavirus. Upon returning home, we learned that all of India had closed its borders behind us. No one was allowed in or out. Escaped in time, yes. India is a beautiful country, but you don't want to have to stay in New Delhi for several months.

In Moscow, waiting for our connecting flight, I'm having a bite to eat in an Uzbek bar. While watching the people, I'm struck once again by the sheer number of attractive Russian women walking around, compared to the many ugly men. Well, that's just my feeling.

Over twelve days, we stayed in eight hotels. We covered over 2,000 km, averaging over 50 hours of travel time, averaging 275 km per travel day, or about 6 hours per day. It was more than worth it, a feast for all the senses, our minds, and our hearts.

Decision.

Wonder, amazement, fascination. This feeling overwhelmed me several times, that intense ecstatic feeling, almost an orgasm, that overtakes you when you behold supernatural art and sometimes incomprehensible beauty…

There is no country that so strikingly contrasts the difference between glittering wealth in ancient palaces with (sorry) sometimes photogenic current poverty.