Southwest Africa Expedition Cruise aboard MS Silver Wind (2-23/03/25): Cape Town to Accra (Ghana)

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Ports of Call : Cape Town & Saldanha/Langebaan (South Africa), Lüderitz & Walvis Bay (Namibia), Namibe & Luanda (Angola), Pointe Noire (Rep. Congo), Bom Bom Island (Sao Tomé & Principe), Lomé (Togo), Takoradi & Tema/Accra (Ghana).

Note : Sections in italics contain special, additional, purely informative explanations or digressions, which you can safely skip. Tip : Due to the extensive image and video content, it's best viewed on a large screen.

Cape Town (South Africa)

From Amsterdam to Cape Town, barely eleven hours without a time difference. That's not too bad. Around

11:00 PM, we check in at Hotel The Capital 15 on Orange, right in the city center. From our room, we can see the famous Table Mountain. The next morning, I only have time until noon to visit something in Cape Town, even though I've been there before. Because then we leave before embarkation. So, I devise a daring itinerary. Sunrise is at 7:00 AM, sunset 6:38 PM, and the expected temperature is 32°C. Only a few hours. Let's go.

Concierge Lavender , an overly friendly, pretty African American woman with thick eyelashes and eyebrows—quite typical here—helps me. I need to take a taxi to the cable car station to reach the top of Table Mountain. And then try to get back on time with the Red sightseeing bus . She books all the necessary tickets, and I sprint for the taxi ($4).

Upon arrival at the cable car, there 's a queue of hundreds of people waiting. This never works. I try to upgrade my ticket to VIP-FAST ($44), but that's impossible. I have no choice but to buy a new fast ticket ($95), but this allows me to bypass more than 500 people via a different VIP route and immediately board the first arriving cable car . The circular cabin holds about fifty people and rotates on itself, allowing everyone at the edge to take photos from all sides. It also has four open windows, ideal for filming. Once at the top, I speedily circle the entire summit to take in all sides and views of the city, the bay,

Lion Head, the harbor to see, photograph, and film. Also, the nature at the summit, the impressive cliffs behind it, and the vast ocean. Well worth it, even for a second visit. Once back, I managed to block the already departing Red Bus and forced my way on board, otherwise I risked losing thirty minutes. Phew, that was a close call.

From the top deck I enjoy the ride around the mountain and city and see the impressive mountain slopes behind Table Mountain, called the Twelve Apostles , the neighborhoods of Camps Bay , the pleasant Sea Point with its beach and the beautiful bays and expensive neighborhoods with special homes around Three Anchor Bay .

Once back in the city we pass Green Point with its lighthouse, the football stadium (remember 2010 World Cup), the Aquarium, the Clocktower , the buzzling V&A Waterfront Area with the Cruise Terminal and then into the city centre, to get off in the middle of Long Street .

I need to find a taxi to the hotel, but the only way to do that is with Uber. Luckily, two friendly passersby help me out, because I'm having trouble with my Uber app. On top of that,

Ubers only accept local cash, not Mastercard. So I had to find an ATM, withdraw a minimum of ZAR 200 (€10) for a ride that cost just ZAR 32 (€1.60), which I then had to exchange for the correct coins at the shop. But I arrived just in time . Phew. Made it.

Embarkation went smoothly, but the Namibian visa application, which was only recently applied for, proved problematic. Weeks ago, I had already applied online for the suddenly mandatory e-visa on arrival . It had been approved and paid for, but I never received it. I do have confirmation of payment and receipts, but my five emails to the Namibian authorities yielded nothing.

It's remarkable that Nella's e-visa actually worked. It turns out to be a mess, because the consulate in Brussels claimed three days before departure that Belgians don't need visas, while the shipping company sent alarm messages urging me to proceed anyway . The purser takes all my evidence, muttering that they only received confirmation of the final immigration check with the required visas—a so-called face-to-face immigration check —yesterday. Exciting, because we'll be there for three days, and Namibia is a highlight. So fingers crossed. Incidentally, the cost of all the visas for this trip was €325 for both of us.

In the stateroom we each receive a multi-use backpack, portable sanitizer (disinfectant stick) (*) with a professional refill bottle and quietvoxes , because this is an expedition cruise with 24 Zodiacs on board and instead of a cruise director an Expedition Leader with a whole team of experts and lecturers in all kinds of disciplines such as ornithology, anthropology, geology, biology, history, wildlife, botany, culture, etc. And with our top guest: Zelda La Grange . She was Nelson's private secretary for twenty years and wrote two books about him. Also on board are the award-winning anthropologists Clifford Pereira (Kenya) and Roddy Bray (UK).

More about Silver Wind (and what an expedition cruise is compared to a classic cruise) follows here .

Silver Wind is a smaller version of Silversea's Shadow and Muse, which we've already sailed. The passenger ratio (225 to a maximum of 270) to crew (239) is currently even above 1:1. A phenomenal figure, especially considering the adventurous expedition element. Although the entertainment here consists of only one activity hostess and two solo musicians, four wonderful local folklore shows are offered at four destinations. No fancy dressing up in the evenings here; the dress code is simply elegant casual every evening. And the destinations are rather poor, remote, run-down, hot, and humid, lacking comfort and hygiene, rather than world wonders and unique sights.

An expedition cruise offers the same top-notch service and comfort, but with a greater focus on "discovery," particularly in terms of nature, culture, and related sciences. This itinerary features very few stops and includes a few previously undeveloped activities and a selection of special excursions (all included). These are prepared, introduced, and guided by the lead lecturers, with recaps by numerous specialists in various fields.

The team : expedition leader Tracy Lea McQuillan (Australia), Tania & Gert (both South Africa)

assistant expedition leaders, Jessica (GB) and Miguel (South Africa) expedition program coordinators and Nwabisa (South Africa) staff assistant. The guides Scott (Canada), Denis (Latvia) also photography, Todd (GB), Lisa-Marie (South Africa). Furthermore, guides/specialist lecturers Alexandra (USA/Singapore) anthropology and history, Kristian and Malcolm (Australia) ornithology and marine biology, Yvonne (South Africa) art, culture & watercolor class, Gregory (Australia) tropical biology and wildlife expert, Tristan (Germany, living in Mexico) botany, ornithology, general physicist, Carlos (Ecuador) history and finally Manuel (Colombia) geology.

(*) The fear of African diseases and infections is deeply ingrained. And despite sanitary stations (sophisticated washing, cleaning, and disinfecting stations) and constant circulation with spray disinfectants, along with the repeated reminders to "Wash your hands," there appear to have been a few cases of GE, gastroenteritis.

More than ever, I'm struck by nationalities performing unexpected onboard roles. Our suite attendant (formerly known as a cabin stewardess ) is named Pamela and is Filipina. Not surprising, as Filipinos have long been sailors and shipboard crew on cruises. But our (female) butler, Ruth , dressed in a sharp black suit with a bow tie, is from... Pakistan. Not exactly a country you'd associate with hospitality traditions .

The head sommelier, the attractive Maria, is from Mexico, and her assistant, another Maria , is from Ukraine. These are not exactly well-known wine countries. I'm captivated by her introduction to the exceptional premium wines on offer, selected by a top Italian connoisseur and buyer for the entire fleet. With Chunglu , a waitress from China, I talk about our visit to China on a Yangtze River cruise in November. And our favorite waiter is the ever-smiling Zimbabwean Moses , a top-notch chef who could easily be placed in a three-star restaurant.

Saldanha (South Africa)

This tender harbor provides access to the magnificent West Coast National Park . The harbor is one of the largest natural harbors in Africa, with crystal-clear waters and therefore attracting yachts and water sports, but is also important for iron ore exports and the navy.

Langebaan , on a saltwater lagoon, is a protected eco-area, home to some 250 bird species. Silversea offers kayak and cycling tours in this adventurous area. White beaches are fringed with numerous, exuberant varieties of flowers, especially in season. The park itself is home to ostriches, springbok, mountain zebras, and tortoises.

During migration season, many whales come to feed on the cold waves. There's also an interesting fossil park. We take the shuttle bus there, enjoy the surroundings, and stroll around the charming little spot with a few shops and bars, one of which overlooks the lagoon and has twelve beer taps, including the inevitable Stella Artois. I drink, and Nella buys our remaining ZAR (Rand coins). A slender girl wears a T-shirt that says " The future is female ." I tell her: "I'll tell Trump." She laughs.

At sea

I attend lectures, take part in a quiz and in the evening we greet Captain Sasha Kolosov (Ukraine) which leads to a nice conversation about my early cruising career (1980s) with then chartered Soviet ships of the Black Sea Shipping Company with home port Odessa on vessels such as the Leonid Brezhnev , the Azerbaijan , the Taras Chevchenko .

Lüderitz (Namibia)

The morning started off tensely because of my visa issues. The super-friendly German CRM Robert prepared a file with my documents and additional photos. But one of the eight officials raised objections. After much cajoling with the chief immigration officer, I finally got the green light.

I'm taking the tour to Kolsmankop Ghost Town alone, because Nella has a serious cold

sustained when, yesterday afternoon, after the warm morning weather on the quay (with a wildly splashing seal), we were hit by an instant cold snap. She's practically coughing herself to death. The ghost town of Kolsmankop is a deserted settlement of once-super-wealthy German diamond prospectors, who, thanks to their acquired wealth, built a city full of luxury in the middle of the desolate, sandy nothingness. Only lifeless barrenness, save for a few reptiles and desert vermin. They had to import everything, even solid sand (sic) and water, to install their buildings, facilities, and lives. The dilapidated ruins, with their functions still marked in German, bear witness to a captivating and remarkable period, about which I listen to captivating stories via Quietvox while trying to capture the apocalyptic site on camera.

Back in Lüderitz, we see typical colorful German houses, Art Nouveau, which seem rather strange amidst this desert-like landscape. I walk to the inconspicuous, simple Lutheran church at the top, then descend towards the ship. Young Black people try to offer me all sorts of things. It's Sunday and relatively quiet, but the place oppresses me with its surreal feel.

Nella consults the doctor ($125 for a consultation) and has all sorts of tests performed, all negative, but she's prescribed medication ($30). Unfortunately, even after recovery, my wife continues to cough throughout the trip, causing her sleepless nights. To recover, I order a Margarita with crushed ice as an aperitif from room service . A little later, to my surprise, I receive a Margarita pizza with a glass of crushed ice. Otherwise, I have nothing bad to say about the service.

Walvis Bay (Namibia)

This destination is a haven for marine mammals like whales, seals, and dolphins, thanks to its namesake bay teeming with plankton, and its deepwater harbor makes it a major fishing port. It's also a lush area for spotting wildlife and birds, including the famous pink flamingos, herons, and other wading birds. Before we step ashore, a local medical team tests each passenger for a fever (remember COVID). Amusingly, the team consists of seven uniformed men, but only one actually performs the fever test. I join the four-wheel drive trip to Sandwich Bay , the final destination where, at Dune 7 , dramatic sand dunes up to 380 meters high plunge from the scorching desert into the Atlantic Ocean.

An experience, a true highlight.

First, I can film the pink flamingos that are so prevalent here, after which we drive between salt pans and endless sandy plains, along rippling lagoon water just millimeters below. A breathtaking, extraordinary ride through the lowest, flattest country ever. Along the way, we stop and get an explanation of the pink water, gigantic

salt crystals, mineral pebbles and many geological phenomena.

Then, out of nowhere, we find ourselves between bumpy ridges, ever higher, steeper, deeper, more sensational, a real rollercoaster with our powered driver screaming: " I luuuuuv my jooooob! " Swerving, swerving, braking, weaving, accelerating, and we, the four passengers, just clinging on, trying to film and take pictures... Not easy, because this rodeo is rocking up and down and back and forth like crazy. But still, after selecting a few fantastic shots, it turns out we managed to pull it off. Short video (54"):

We reach our destination: a high dune that slopes directly into the sea. Here, the desert literally sandwiches itself onto the sea. Climbing that steep dune proves to be a different story. The slope is a SLOPE, steep with super-soft, loose sand. Consequently, every step means descending two-thirds. The peak itself is narrow and somewhat constricting (sorry, the puns are inevitable), but it's worth it to be able to see this truly exceptional natural phenomenon, that sand-and-sea backdrop. And that slight euphoria.

After the delicate climbing and photo shoot esbattement, a buffet lunch (brought with you) awaits.

On the way back, I sit in the front row, which offers considerable advantages when filming video. The drive is once again an exceptional experience, especially visually and physically. Where the dunes soften, some minimal, dry vegetation begins to appear, and we even see a springbok family, clearly happy with little food. Indeed, a day with little fauna and flora, but what a wonderful expedition this was.

Walvis Bay. Day 2

Today I'm going seal watching. We're taking a catamaran (12 people) to a kind of sandbank, teeming with young seals and their mothers. The males, it turns out, are "at the pub." Males, after mating, simply abandon the place to go off on their own. When will the female seals be emancipated?

A strange mist hangs over the sea. I see oyster beds, sunken wrecks, ghostly ships, dolphins, and of course, masses of rabid seals, who, once they learn to swim, can't contain their frolicking energy. The spectacle of rolling and tumbling seals is a feast for the eyes. One even jumps aboard and

Flapping and posing, he is rewarded with fish from a bucket, fed by the sailor who had already given us a taste of some special local drinks. A pelican also comes to perform, eager for the bucket, but crafty seagulls manage to snatch the fish in flight. The pelican, however, is unfazed and calmly and willingly allows himself to be photographed. A little later, in the common room, we are treated to oysters from the oyster fields we previously passed, some in a slightly spicy sauce.

version, and all kinds of fish and seafood snacks.

So far I have seen, besides many species of birds: seals, pelicans, flamingos, dolphins and all kinds of insects, snakes and vermin including Roller spiders, Darklings, Namaqua chameleons, etc.

Day at sea

Early morning jacuzzi, swimming, and an Asian buffet lunch by the pool, reading and writing, and my self-imposed walk-a-thon , which, in the blazing sun around the upper deck, is supposed to earn me at least five thousand extra steps. In the evening, during a modest karaoke session, I surprisingly performed one of my former hits (after my rather specific demands), but let's just say it wasn't too bad. Despite the applause and compliments the next day, it's clear to me, " My entertainment days are over ." Oh well, energy and old age...

Namibe (Angola)

We're greeted by eleven men and women drumming and dancing, dressed in primitive, skimpy jungle garb. The women have large, drooping breasts that they sometimes have to hold when things get too intense. One invites me to join in the dance, which I do briefly, carrying my backpack. The spectacle is filmed by a local news broadcaster .

This day promises to be a fantastic expedition experience, an exciting trip through the desert. Only one excursion here,

Which, of course, everyone signed up for. The Silversea excursions are all included, with the exception of a few special offers like helicopter rides and such. And a dinner in the desert with a local performance by fire-eaters, among others. But too expensive for me. Two caravans of twelve multi-seaters each , with a flashing pilot car at the front and, oh my god, a real ambulance behind. The ride runs along a single, straight asphalt road without traffic and at a slow pace, through the flat, sandy nothingness. Only a sprinkling of dry, arid vegetation. But it has a certain charm.

Namibe City used to be quite meaningless. We visit an uninteresting church and the

Saint Ferdinand Fortaleza . A fort that defended the city and played a significant role in early Portuguese colonial history, it now serves as a sort of military base. The Supreme Superior (a general?) shows us around, but so many people up narrow staircases to small cells immediately becomes confusing.

The town was founded in the mid-nineteenth century by Portuguese and Brazilians fleeing unrest, and reflects its Portuguese roots in its distinctly Roman Catholic and colonial heritage.

After 45 minutes we stop along the road to look at the Welwitschia Mirabilis growing here .

Admire. This extremely rare, arid plant is a growth phenomenon and survivor, found only in this region. It withstands drought, sandstorms, insects… some are thousands of years old. The oldest is said to be five thousand years old. In short, practically the oldest living creature in the world. The hard, long leaves (up to six meters long) creep along the ground, and the plant stem (actually a flower) has a diameter of 60 to 120 cm and a root one meter deep. Extremely remarkable.

Then we continue to the Arch (Lost) Lagoon , now completely dry but a kind of oasis with some vegetation and various bird species including water birds, birds of prey and weaver birds.

We are greeted by a singing and clapping group of dancers who dance spontaneously and improvisationally. Then we walk through a spectacular sandstone setting with carved caverns, grooves, sand arches, and hollows. An environment of beautifully sculpted rocks, hills, and

Plains. Perfect for filming Western-style movies.

Once back, to process the day trip, I have a Hendricks gin with elderflower Pouring tonic water while I scroll and delete through my abundance of photos. Tonight, the restaurant is offering a Flavors of Angola menu . As an appetizer, I have a papaya salad (with cabbage, green beans, and peanuts). As an entree, an okra, tomato, and kale soup. For the main course, a Cachupa , a beef stew with chorizo, white beans, carrots, taro, corn, and rice bread. For dessert, Cocada Amarek (a spicy coconut pudding with egg, cinnamon, cloves, and a tart fig compote).

Luanda

Luanda, Angola's vibrant capital, is a center of economic contrasts. Skyscrapers rise above poor neighborhoods. The city, however, buzzes with energy. Luxury shops and bustling, shabby markets coexist.

For some, Luanda represents wealth and progress, fueled by oil revenues (the second-largest oil-producing African country) since independence in 2002 and the post-war economic boom. For others, it's a struggle to survive in a city where the cost of living is exorbitant and opportunities are unevenly distributed. Yet Luanda continues to grow, where hope and challenge go hand in hand. Yet, that oil makes Luanda one of the most expensive cities in the world, partly due to the large number of expats.

The welcome on the quay is very colorful and lively, with a singing and drumming crowd. It's infectious. In flamboyant red dresses and scarves, especially the women, their gold-striped faces moving to the rhythm of their repetitive chant, sometimes accompanied by shrill strokes on a kind of referee's whistle.

We drive into the city in small, somewhat oppressive buses, a mayonnaise of appalling decay mixed with modern new construction. A playful building, the Palàcio de

Ferro (Iron Palace) is a kind of exhibition space for local artists, our first stop. It's situated in a beautiful park, built entirely of iron, somewhat reminiscent of the Eifel region. Small but picturesque, it's picture-perfect. A small gallery a little further on displays more artifacts, such as ivory carvings, a royal throne, models, and so on. A gourd player plays alone in a kind of patio. I'm more amused by taking photos of the many photogenic natives outside .

Then comes the highlight: the Fortaleza São Miguel , a massive, dominating, and beautiful sand-colored fortress. Now a sort of military museum filled with vintage airplanes, tanks, anti-aircraft guns, and the like. The golden-yellow old fortified castle offers a fascinating 360° view of the city from the ramparts . On one side, a beautiful bay with a beach and palm trees, and some neo-colonial buildings, probably luxury hotels, a promenade, and beyond that, harbor areas and modern high-rises. But literally on the opposite side of the fortress walls, the favelas, colorful from above, yet clearly impoverished .

We drive to the Mausoleum of Agostinho Neto (1922-1979) because of its somewhat ludicrous Soviet-style rocket shape, visible from afar. Anyone unfamiliar with this gloriously revered politician and poet will find this museum and mausoleum of little interest.

But for the Angolans, he was the political leader in the struggle for independence against colonial Portugal, and thus became the first president. I can't help but think that this multi-million pound spending would have been better spent on alleviating the poverty of many Angolans. From a higher terrace, we do have a beautiful view of the magnificent Parliament. The government buildings and the surrounding cathedral are also stylish and well-maintained. We briefly stop at Independence Square with its monument, but it's so stiflingly hot that we quickly flee back to the air conditioning.

In the evening, a local dance group will perform three couples dances at the theater: a sultry rumba, a captivatingly sensual hip-hop dance, and finally, an energetic hip-hop-style dance routine. Rather modern and completely different from typical folklore shows, yet engaging and beautifully performed.

Pointe Noire (Republic of Congo)

This time we are greeted on the quay by a group of mainly drummers in yellow shirts.

Today, a city tour of the economic capital, Pointe-Noire, including a museum visit, offers the opportunity to discover the cultural heritage of the Republic of Congo. The city combines modern infrastructure with old colonial charm and a vibrant local culture.

Highlights of the city tour include a visit to a local market featuring artisanal products and tropical fruits, a drive through the colonial quarter with its characteristic architecture, Independence Square, the old train station, a stop at Saint-Pierre Cathedral, and the African Museum.

We knew in advance that Pointe-Noire was a poor destination.

As if the excursion needed further proof, the first visit is to the completely dilapidated and abandoned, dilapidated station building from 1936. Bavarian-style, rusty, blacked-out, and riddled with holes in the roof, it nevertheless has a kind of vague character. This could easily be the setting for some spaghetti western and, in my opinion, is particularly photogenic in its dilapidated state. A small market nearby offers us some local produce and paintings. From there, we head to the Notre-Dame church, an ugly, banal building with absolutely nothing to see. So much for the first part.

The Musée du Cercle Africain showcases pieces of the history, art, and traditions of the Congolese people through artifacts, including many masks, figurines, pottery, and sculptures, all beautiful and artistic. Furthermore, there are photographs and exhibitions about daily life, rituals, and important events in the region.

At the entrance of the former colonial building (once a social club for Europeans) stand two motionless men, dressed as warriors. They look like real puppets. Outside, on a terrace, three more statue-warriors stand. A drum-drummer conjures a devastating percussion concert from his single drum. A warrior/dancer/acrobat

comes to life, throwing his arms over his head, folded back, and performing other bizarre body tricks. He can dislocate almost any limb, allowing him to perform improbable movements and poses. Quite capricious. A dancer follows, hopping and jumping up and down with a voluptuous gait. Then a rag-clad magician with a mask appears, acting somewhat strangely, in our opinion. But the percussionist uses incredibly subtle fingerwork and conjures all sorts of keys from his instrument.

Finally, in the sweltering heat, we visit the vibrant open-air Grand Marché, a riot of color, sound, and smell, with an endless variety of goods from fresh produce to art pieces, textiles, you name it, and, as in all third-world countries, quite chaotic. The women, however, are photogenic in their many brightly colored to garish outfits.

dresses or cloth wraps. They carry the most impossible baskets, boxes, and objects, perfectly balanced on their heads.

That evening, the same local folk group will perform another grand show in our theater with incredible passion. A rich performance, complemented by a phenomenal vocalist and a variety of exuberant rhythms. It culminates in a rollicking dance orgy with dozens of fellow passengers on stage. An irresistible party ensues.

We knew that very few tourists visit this destination, but we found that they truly pulled out all the stops to please us. Every passenger even receives a souvenir T-shirt.

At sea on the way to São Tomé & Príncipe

Consternation. The captain announces a change of itinerary due to the idyllic Bom Bom Island .

Our next port of call. It's a small tropical paradise, with no special sights, but nothing but sugar-white, soft beaches and turquoise-clear water, fringed with bounty-style palm trees, which you can easily walk around in an hour. The reason: the maritime authorities here cannot guarantee our safety. Read: against piracy. In this zone, the Bay of Nigeria , this danger is rampant. Instead, we maintain a leisurely pace for three days, crossing the equator directly to Togo.

The equator? Of course, with the classic Crossing the Equator Ceremony featuring King Neptune and his entourage. The ritual marks the transition from a " Pollywog " (someone who hasn't yet crossed the equator) to a " Shellback " (someone who has). It amounts to a kind of baptism, with all sorts of goo being poured over the victims. Always a source of amusement for many. But when I, as cruise director, played Neptune myself, we performed it with more class, at least with decent nautical-themed attire and real mermaids. Compare for yourself. 2 x left: here at Silverwind. 2 x right: with your servant (Vistafjord, Cunard).

On April 6th we celebrate our 35th wedding anniversary. In the evening we will be surprised

Invited by the captain and the highest-ranking officers and staff to the bar for a champagne toast, followed by a catered dinner with cake, and even more romantic attentions upon arrival in the suite. What a fantastic surprise.

Lomé (Togo)

Today we'll get acquainted with voodoo. We'll visit three tribes, each performing exclusive and unusual rituals for tourists in their village. The first one

Rotating huts form, where all sorts of hocus-pocus, from moving statues to poisonous snakes, are the main ingredient. In the second village, it's more about trance, with two possessed to ecstatic, shiny black figures, dusted with white and yellow powder, playing the leading role. After lunch at a lake, a spectacle follows in which all sorts of strangely dressed villagers make all sorts of strange movements. Everything is accompanied by plenty of drumming and sometimes singing by the black people present. Because these rituals are impossible to accurately describe, I made this short visual video compilation. A spectacular impression of 3'25":

In the evening we are treated to another exuberant, indeed insane, local folklore show in which, of course, dance, masks and strange outfits once again provide the backdrop for a dazzling spectacle.

Lomé (Togo). Day 2

We start the city tour with a beautiful art market where all kinds of

Crafts are offered for sale, all handmade and of impressive quality. The route leads through the beautiful, modern Independence Square to the stately, well-maintained Palais de Lomé (Governor's Palace), situated in the heart of a pleasant park with a pond and a birdwatcher's paradise, extending down to the sea. The palace houses touching exhibitions of artwork and unique photographs.

In the park, we're offered various drinks from large bowls, such as Tchoukoutou (made from sorghum , an important grain here, alcoholic), Liha (made from corn), sweet palm wine, freshly chopped coconuts, and various natural fruit juices. Finally, there's the repulsive fetish voodoo market , where animal skulls, dolls covered in voodoo needles, and all sorts of repulsive sights, along with... that stench in that heat, make for a memorable, captivating, and unique visit.

On the way back, we follow the coastal path, where small stalls occasionally set up on the beach, but the endless procession of mopeds and tuk-tuks parked under palm trees gives the beach a surreal effect. Upon returning to the ship, the stalls on the dock opposite the walkway offer a touch of color in the otherwise unsightly industrial harbor.

Takoradi (Ghana)

Takoradi, the fourth largest city, boasts serene beaches, great seafood,

and on the other, a bustling commercial center. Ghana's economy is largely driven by the flourishing oil industry, hence the low gasoline prices, clearly visible in the maze of vendors on Market Circle . The town itself isn't worth a visit, but it's the gateway to the UNESCO World Heritage sites of Elmina and Cape Coast Castle, an excursion I skipped because I'd already seen a similar castle and site on the island of Gorée near Dakar, Senegal.

It's Easter and I miss this day somewhere, as we celebrate it in the spring.

Ghana, together with Ivory Coast, is one of the most important countries for cocoa production, in the

Pronounced "kokoow" in local English. It has 70% Christians, 30% Muslims, the rest traditional religions, and some others. There are many ethnic groups in the south, the most prominent being the Ashanti. Interestingly, Ghana has many natural resources. Now even lithium, essential for batteries. I bet this will cause geopolitical problems. Things are moving here, clearly visible in the Tema port, so full of containers and industrial complexes.

Tema / Accra (Ghana)

Tema is the city closest to the “center” of the world, i.e., on the GMT timeline and near the equator.

Tema, originally a modest fishing port and now teeming with industrial activity, is the gateway, an hour's drive to the capital, Accra. But nearby, Mother Nature has blessed the area with white sandy beaches and an azure sea, a perfect habitat for numerous bird species such as gannets, blue-footed boobies, and kingfishers. The inflamed, iron-rich soil of the land surrounding the heavily traveled railway line to the interior perfectly reflects the colors of the Ghanaian flag: red, yellow, and green in alternating scenic views along the coastline.

The morning heat seems bearable today with a light breeze. Perfect for a quick

Breakfast on the outdoor terrace with, as usual, plenty of tropical fruit. The last few days have been more like self-flagellation, with temperatures of 32-24°C, topped off with humidity that makes the sweat instantly pour from my head.

I feel like I've lost a lot of weight, but the only scale on board is broken. I've been having fainting spells, heartburn, and gastrointestinal problems for days. I'm dragging myself through the last ten days because I'm convinced it's just temporary weakness or a "trouble." After the trip, I'll learn that I definitely had gastroenteritis (a blood test). The advantage of persevering (in hindsight, a mistake) and not calling in sick is that I was able to participate in all the excursions, albeit a bit of a shambles, instead of having to quarantine for a few days. But, I didn't know that at the time.

Our flamboyant guide is called Sam. The trip to Accra starts in the Jamestown district , which means

A visit to a favella-like, bidonville-like environment with its own characteristic features. With a few highlights amidst dilapidated clusters of huts, barely any houses, and corrugated iron structures. And everywhere, garbage and filth. The stench is unbearable. Allow me to say, subjectively, that these odors within these impoverished slums are worse than comparable South American, Indian, and Asian locations that, well, somehow still have a touch of the exotic.

But at a viewpoint, a stretch of beach and a sea full of typical fishing boats offer a more idyllic moment. A far cry from the suspicious stoves on small fires, the cauldrons of porridge (cassava), and the residents lounging, hanging, sleeping, and doing nothing, except for a few vegetable vendors. Sometimes children of all ages pounce on me, shouting, "How are you?" Unobtrusively, spontaneously, and, surprisingly, without any desire. Wonderful.

English is the main language in Ghana, along with 47 local languages representing 75 different ethnic groups. Be warned, they don't like the word "tribes." Then I suddenly find myself standing among large, blackened barrels where fish are constantly being smoked. The smell! Fishy smell and smoke. I see mostly mackerel. Only a few women are busy. A naturally ugly place full of stacked chopped wood and piles of dirty cardboard.

We'll visit the National Museum of Ghana, filled with anthropological and ethnographic West African reconstructions of their history and culture, and a collection of artifacts from the premodern period. The government buildings are also located in this distinctly wealthy neighborhood.

We stop at the curious, somewhat Soviet-looking, enormous Independence Square next to a triumphal arch, the Black Star Gate .

The square, located next to the sea, hosts presidential inaugurations, rallies, and important national celebrations and events. It can accommodate tens of thousands of people. A little further on is the National Football Stadium. Our guide assures me that Ghana is a football-mad country. Tip for Belgian visitors to Africa: if they ask where you're from and they don't respond to the word Belgium, say: Lukaku!

During the return trip I receive a message via my HoplaFly

E-SIM card, the message that Pope Francis has died. I immediately see that among the ten leading successor candidates is a Ghanaian cardinal, which I point out to my surprised, capable guide. I learn that the strong Catholicism here isn't nationalistic in nature, but rather combines just as well with voodoo beliefs and practices. That papal news turned out to be a bit of a bombshell, even among the Americans.

What strikes me again are the many children wearing T-shirts that say, for example, Fly Emirates . Children who will probably never see the inside of an airplane, let alone an Emirates one. But there are efforts being made here in terms of education and such. Women are also increasingly being included, according to our guide. That pleases me. Although, polygamous marriages are still possible. At least, if the first wife allows it. Female clitoral mutilation is now illegal and prohibited, which doesn't mean it no longer occurs anywhere. Yet, Sam sighs that many women now want to get a Master's degree before having children, deciding that they'll make the husband work hard in the meantime. On the other hand, there is still the phenomenon of women being exorcised on accusations of witchcraft.

Ghana's demographic situation faces several challenges. Rapid population growth, primarily in poor areas, is putting pressure on food security and economic growth. Furthermore, the country faces high infant mortality, particularly in poor families, due to a lack of access to clean water, good nutrition, and healthcare.

I learned that the Golden Coast earned its name here because, indeed, of the gold it contains. And that the tsetse mosquito probably contributed most to the relatively rapid independence at the expense of the European colonists. You get the idea: malaria strikes!

We return past Labadi Beach, with its eponymous hotel, where Bill Clinton once stayed. Not without a short visit to a workshop where original coffins are shaped to resemble a characteristic that typified the survivor or was dear to them. I see a sneaker, a fish, an airplane, a beer bottle, a crab, a red pepper. Quite funny, but perhaps also a little silly.

The last day (Accra)

After disembarking, we're taken to a day hotel because our flight isn't until late in the evening. I try to relax by the large, but unfortunately not refreshing, pool, as it's too hot. Via Rome, we arrive in Brussels the next morning.

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BONUSES :

Short photomontage SW-AfricanCoastsPeople (38"):

Short photo montage SW-AfricanCoastsSights (29"):

Short photo montage SWAfricanCoasteRemarkableShots (40"):