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Flamenco in Jerez de la Frontera

Updated: Oct 17

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I've seen dozens of flamenco shows in my life, always aimed at tourists: tacky colors and predictable choreographies full of tricks. But in the oldest, original peña in Jerez, Bancador El Pasaje , I found true authenticity. Just six tables with four chairs and a selection of dozens of sherry varieties straight from the barrels, each with its own unique flavor. Here, I was completely swept away by flamenco puro . This is the birthplace of flamenco. Originally, flamenco consisted only of singing and guitar; the dance came later. But what a soul lies within.


On a mini-stage stand a singer, a guitarist, and a dancer. The soul, the passion—it all comes to the fore. Whether the singer wails, "Ay, ay, ay, I hit my thumb, " or sings with a grimace, " Mia mujer no puede caccar " (my Spanish is getting worse, but that's how I understood it), it doesn't matter. These aren't songs, but passionate stories full of fire, pure corazon , with stirring rhythmic shifts that transport you to another emotional dimension. That's what I love, and for me, the foundation of all art and cultural appreciation: honest emotion.

A highlight, and it cost our private table for two, just tapas and drinks, at least 25 euros. Besides, it makes me realize how expensive our restaurants are. Here, a menu del dia costs 8 or sometimes 10 euros for four dishes and two glasses of wine.


It was a fantastic day, although the later visit to the world-famous Tio Pepe bodega, through a beautiful, majestic estate, was fascinating. We saw thousands of barrels, but for me, at €15.50 per person, it was less captivating than, say, the tour of De Halve Maan brewery. Again, genuine goosebumps are the norm.


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