Lighthouses, Landmarks and Lobsters (Canada – New England cruise: Quebec to New York, September 2023)

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We fly to Montreal, where we have six hours to kill before our flight to Quebec City (originally known as New France). We settle in at a micro-brasserie (a typical Canadian phenomenon). There, we sample a few samples and Canadian bitters. It takes some getting used to the extra taxes and the ever-annoying hassle of tipping. And, of course, the high prices.

A man in an impeccable black suit picks us up in a massive black Yucon (brand GMC) and takes us to the hotel. What service, Silversea! We check in at the famous Hotel Capitole, located on Place d'Youville, where there's a wild party going on for Canada's Labour Day. But we'd rather sleep, as we have a seven-hour time difference to catch up on.

Located right next to the old city walls of Haute-Quebec, Le Capitole is a legendary hotel.

Sarah Bernhard, Maurice Chevalier, Fernandel, and Leo Ferré all performed there. Vaudeville shows were particularly popular. Yves Montand, Gilbert Bécaud, and Charles Aznavour also performed there. Princess Elisabeth stayed there in 1951, and in 1953, the premiere of the Hitchcock film "Confesse," filmed there, took place there. Since 1992, the Capitole Theatre has been open again for performances and major musicals.

Breakfast is a real treat here. We're not big breakfast eaters, but it was included. You could only choose from a variety of fixed menu items. Nella, who only wants a latte and at most a croissant, would have to pay extra, as it's not on the menu, but included in the extras. So I tried La Cassolette Landaise (with duck confit!): potato roast, mushrooms sauvages with tomatoes, romarin, in a port sauce, confit duck, fromage taleggio fondue, arugula, poached œuf . And with it whole wheat toast with jam, chocolate chips, and butter. But with bland coffee. Espresso or something similar would cost extra. Fried potatoes for breakfast... they're always at the forefront of every hotel breakfast, even in New York. It was wonderful to be able to sit on the terrace next to that ramparts in beautiful Quebec around 7:15 am. And already 23°.

Time to visit the charming old town. You can easily do so on foot, as this historic center (a UNESCO World Heritage site) feels European (especially to a Bruges native). It's the only city in North America that feels truly historic, almost medieval. When history is discussed on this continent, it goes back no more than three or four centuries.

The old city walls (4.6 km long) have four gates , three Martello towers, and old cannons everywhere. Quebec City is also characterized by very wide avenues, a striking contrast. We pass the Parliament of the State, through the Porte Saint-Louis, and arrive at the star-shaped Citadelle. These grounds were the site of decisive battles between French and English troops in 1759. We wander around a bit, observing the motionless military guards who march every few minutes, raising and lowering their guns. Then we climb through a beautiful park to a magnificent viewpoint over the Saint-Laurence River and the harbor. The view is particularly impressive, with a view of the exceptionally beautiful City Hall, Quebec's symbol and landmark . We descend to the wide, wooden-terrace Boulevard Dufferin, where the hustle and bustle feel very convivial. We admire the most photographed hotel in North America, the 400-year-old, architecturally captivating Chateau Frontenac, whose interior is filled with antique chandeliers. With an old funicular we descend from upper to lower Quebec, Basse Ville on the waterfront, full of charming cobbled streets and the Place Royale next to the (small) Notre Dame.

The French flavor is palpable everywhere, as is the multicultural acceptance. The walk invites us to have lunch at one of the many bistros with a terrace. There's plenty of international food, but always served with un-Belgian fries. Either thin McDo's-style or thick, dark brown, and pliable. But the local specialty is poutine (not to be confused with a certain Russian). Because I always want to try the local hit dish, I go for it. Fries covered in rubbery melted cheese, drowned in some kind of gravy and extras, in my case, bacon bits and a large slab of foie gras. Again. It reminds me most of a kind of loaded fries —not my thing, and not exactly healthy. Also inevitably present is maple sap, an alternative to honey, especially spread liberally on pancakes , bread, and desserts. Along the winding cobblestone streets and the fortified, thick ramparts, we then head to the Gate Saint-John near our hotel.

After a nap, back to the vibrant, atmospheric Rue Saint-Jean.

I finally end up on the boisterous terrace of the Saint-Alexandre pub. Here, you'll find hundreds of beers from all corners of the world, organized by country. Belgium has the widest selection, even more than Canada and the US, with a whopping eighty varieties. A Duvel costs 15 C$, which is the equivalent of €10. And that's not even the most expensive. There are no branded glasses, only standard glasses for everything. In the evening, we indulge in oysters with sea urchin cream and fish eggs outside, among lush tropical plants with giant leaves. It's September and 24 to 30 degrees Celsius, so why not? But winters are freezing, and then, of course, the plants are brought inside.

We're the first to board that good old Silver Shadow. Before we know it, we're already chatting and joking with the waiters at the pool bar over aperitifs and a light lunch. We meet Steven Rivellino, who's giving lectures on Broadway and various analyses of theater and its trends, interwoven with history, on this cruise. Steven is an award-winning theater producer and manager of major stage shows like Les Misérables, Miss Saigon, and Phantom of the Opera. He's also been on many cruises, and we share memories, including the legendary Vistafjord, where I was once cruise director.

At around 4pm we will experience a dazzling introductory show by the entertainment team.

Not a big show at all, but songs and dance performed by, among others, three dancers from Ukraine and a girl from Korea. The dazzling sequence of up-tempo numbers and dazzling, quasi-acrobatic choreography nearly knocks me off my seat. It's so swinging and captivating that, as a viewer, I'm left feeling exhausted. I'd already seen many spectacular dance moves by couples, but this one sometimes left me with a shiver. Later, I'd get to know them; all sweet, beautiful, and modest people.

SAGUENAY (Quebec)

We cruised the Saguenay River, nestled in the heart of a triad of vast national parks, arriving around noon in the town of the same name. The cruise offered a true fjord experience. I enjoyed the stunning scenery, the mountainsides, the dominant greenery, the waterfalls, and even spotted a moose and later a bear with her cub, unfortunately always too late for a photo. This is the southernmost fjord in the Northern Hemisphere and also one of the longest. The river is a natural phenomenon in itself. Orcas, belugas, and blue whales swim here. It's also a paradise for snow geese.

We dock at La Baie de Ha Ha . For more information on the origins of this unique name, click here . I visit the Fjord Museum and take a seat in a Star Trek-esque setting. Through masterfully crafted effects (shaking, sounds), we fly and dive over and into the fjord. We watch the history of the oldest prehistoric times unfold through an impressive sequence of images and learn all about the local fauna and flora. With dazzling facts, such as that the river is sometimes up to 270 meters deep, making it inaccessible to diving humans.

After visiting an authentic goat farm and seeing the wonderful textile creations they produce here by hand, we drive to the famous Massive Pulp Mill .

Along the way, we pass Petite Maison Blanche , a simple house perched on a rock (see photo), which miraculously survived the devastating flood of July 1996, the only one to have been destroyed. This deluge literally swept away everything. Fortunately, thanks to timely repatriation, there were relatively few casualties.

The Chicoutimi Pulp Mill (1896) is now an impressive museum. It tells the story of the paper industry in the old days and the living conditions of the workers back then. A little further on, I learn all about the spectacular stage production "La Fabuleuse Histoire d'une Royaume" (The Fabulous History of a Royal Family), a household name in France and French Canada. The production featured 150 free actors (each playing about 12 different roles), representing some 1,500 characters and extras, seven horses, countless animals, antique cars, a large swimming pool, and endless sets and scene changes, supported by a wealth of multimedia, lighting, music, and special effects, operated by no fewer than twenty technicians. This spectacle has already been seen by 1.3 million viewers over 35 seasons. The highlight is yet to come: an immersion in the world of artist Arthur Villeneuve, who, with his highly figurative, colorful, and somewhat childlike style, brings objects like a ship, a lighthouse, and an elaborate clock to exuberant life. The absolute masterpiece is his own house, which he decorated with scenes on virtually everything: walls, floor, ceiling, doors...

On the way back, it becomes clear once again that this region owes its wealth primarily to its nature and natural resources. But the aluminum industry also proves to be of great importance. The drive offers us a view of charming, typical houses surrounded by lush greenery, large lawns, and artificial swimming pools. It's remarkable that it still feels like summer here, with temperatures around 28°C. I expected to be able to enjoy the vibrant autumn season, the famous Indian Summer , but it turns out we're a little too early.

CHARLOTTEVILLE (Prince Edward Island)

After a relaxing day on the river and sea we moor in the charming, rather small

Charlotteville on Price Edward Island. This is where the Canadian Confederation ultimately took place. We stroll and enjoy the charming harbor and stroll past Victorian buildings, cobblestone streets, top restaurants, boutiques, art galleries, and the occasional street musician. It's hard to resist the generous offerings of local lobster and mussel pots. The famous book "Anne of Green Gables" was also written here, still very popular in the Far East, attracting tens of thousands of Japanese visitors to the locations featured on the island each year.

HALIFAX (Nova Scotia)

Halifax is best known as the closest port to the Titanic disaster, where 1,522 deceased passengers and 706 survivors arrived.

Samuel Cunard, founder of the oldest, still-operating cruise line company, Cunard Ltd., and a resident of this city, was the first to open a regular passenger line between Southampton (UK) and Halifax, and later New York. Originally a purely transatlantic connection, it still exists today. Ships like the Queen Elizabeth II, Queen Mary, and Queen Victoria were legendary, resounding names. Later, Cunard grew into a superior cruise line, still with ties to the British Royal Family. I, too, once had a taste of the refined luxury travel operation, both as cruise director (then on the flagship MS Vistafjord) and as port lecturer. A wonderful time. For example, I was privileged to experience and shape the anniversary year of " Cunard, 150 Years of Luxury and Innovation ."

It is clear that Halifax, as a port of entry, played a crucial role for the

Immigration in Canada. Right next to the cruise terminal, we'll visit Pier 21, where the names of millions of immigrant passengers adorn the walls and where the Canadian Museum of Immigration highlights its history. There's also the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic . In short, nowhere is the history of ocean navigation more tangible than in Halifax. We'll take a tour of the city's highlights, visiting the square Town Clock and the Halifax Citadel, perched on a green hill overlooking the city and its 25-kilometer-long natural harbor, also dotted with historic ships, interspersed with jet skis heading for one of the remote islands. Finally, we'll pass the Titanic Cemetery, a moving memorial to the victims of the Great Disaster.

This city seems to be buzzing with a menu of music, outdoor events and maritime, salty charm.

The famous, picture-perfect Peggy's Cove Lighthouse is one of the symbolic icons of Northeastern Canada, stoically and robustly withstanding the pounding Atlantic waves.

Seafood (scallops, lobster of course and all kinds of molluscs and shellfish) are the culinary stars of the gastronomic firmament here, along with the abundant blueberries in desserts.

Portland (Maine)

We've arrived in the USA. And we'll know it. All passengers have to go through immigration. This means lining up in groups assigned to the excursion schedule, receiving passports, having them examined, answering questions like "Have you been in the States before?", then taking a photo of your passport, then having a live photo taken on the spot, which is then run through an app on a laptop to check how well it matches . Seven officers take their time, and that takes precious hours. And then the entire crew still had to go through that procedure.

On land, however, it is pleasant to stroll along the typical wharfs full of fishing boats where the

The aroma of world-famous clam chowder (a rich, creamy shellfish soup) assaults our noses. And of course, Maine lobster , known as the best in the world. Lobster rules and beckons everywhere . No wonder Portland has the most restaurants per capita in this country, after San Francisco.

Lobsters are boiled alive here, but also eaten in sandwiches and in countless other ways, even as fast food or picnic food, accompanied by wine or beer in paper bags, because alcohol is not allowed to be visible in public spaces. Mussels are often au gratin, and oysters, by many locals —oh, the horror—are eaten with a generous squirt of ketchup.

It's curious to see bearded, stocky fishermen juxtaposed with equally bearded hipsters. The city reflects this by boasting, alongside the charming harbor, some quite hip neighborhoods full of charming restaurants and galleries, along with grimy shipyards with railway lines extending to the quays (an extension of the Canada Trunk Railway ), and restored warehouses like the granite US Customs House (1871). And then there's the Portland Observatory (1807) with its gigantic telescope and signal flags, once an important maritime signal tower. And indeed, here too, the many charming lighthouses prove to be the most important landmarks along the coast.

BOSTON (Massachusetts)

Boston, New England's largest city, boasts the oldest colonial roots and a history of freedom and independence . We'll be staying here for two days; there's plenty to see. As we dock, planes keep flying super low overhead to land across the water—quite remarkable.

Once past the Fort Point Channel, a maritime canal that bisects Boston, we drive past high-rises and the numerous wharfs on the waterfront . The first impression is quite livable. Wide avenues and parks, but also cobblestone streets, with the occasional lost church nestled among the spires. Several restaurants, as in all previous ports, offer a feast of fresh crab, lobster, seafood, and chowder. Neighborhoods alternate in a mix of the colonial past and present-day America, such as the more affluent Beacon Hill with its brick houses and numerous wrought-iron gates. But above all, the expansive spatial layout conveys a sense of freedom and openness.

Numerous conflicts with the mother country, Great Britain, ultimately led to independence. On December 16, 1773, three ships were waiting in Boston Harbor to land tea. This didn't happen. During the wee hours of the morning, the ships were boarded by the American patriot group Sons of Liberty, led by brewer Samuel Adams, and 350 crates of tea were thrown overboard. This ultimately led to the declaration of independence by the North American colonists, after this historically significant event: the Boston Tea Party.

We pass the historic ship on which the Constitution was signed, moored next to the dilapidated tollhouse. We follow part of the four-kilometer Freedom Trail and see the old sailing ship USS Constitution and the Bunker Hill Monument , as well as the old State House with its golden dome, Trinity Church in various old styles with columns and turrets, and the stunningly beautiful Boston Public Library with its Italian Revival interior.

Many immigrants were Irish—think of the Kennedy clan—and Italians who run more than a hundred trattorias in Little Italy. Russians, Jews, and Chinese also followed. Massachusetts was also among the first states to abolish slavery.

Boston is synonymous with Harvard and the famous Red Sox Fenway Park , the baseball stadium in the North End. Boston is a sports city. Besides the Red Sox, it's also home to the Bruins (ice hockey), and the Celtics (baseball). It's also home to Graham Bell, the TV series Cheers, and MIT ( Massachusettes Institute of Technology ) in Cambridge, with its architecturally remarkable Stata Center by Frank Gehry, funded by Bill Gates.

Boston offers a huge selection of sightseeing buses, whale-watching, humpback, and dolphin-watching boats, and the fun amphibious vehicles (from World War II), the famous shore-and-water Duck Tours . Guides parade around in period costumes. From the charming New England Aquarium to the Old Custom House , it's a bustling tourist hub.

At night we sail through the Cod Canal, which saves time instead of having to go around the Cape Cod peninsula.

NEWPORT (Rhode Island)

The Silver Shadow will drop anchor and we'll sail ashore using tenders, which will be a pleasant trip with beautiful sea and harbor views. Newport is a delightful, oxygen-rich setting and a historic, very livable town, boasting the country's oldest library, spectacular cliffs, and especially the many magnificent homes left behind by the country's rich and powerful, such as the Vanderbilts. Stately mansions, often with landscaped gardens, such as This Gilded Age Mansion and The Breakers (1895) on Ochre Point Avenue, offer breathtaking views of the beach, cliffs, and a vibrant ocean, birds, surfers, and wildflowers.

Everything exudes grandeur along this rough, wave-lashed coastline. In town, we find Fort Adams, a military fort with underground tunnels surrounded by the State Park, a venue for many folk and jazz festivals, and with magnificent views of the harbor and Narrangansett Bay. We also see a charming old-fashioned tennis complex, a university, and colleges. And of course, the harborfront is full of wharves and eateries, again primarily serving steamed lobster and seafood. My first assistant cruise director, Carleton Freese, was from here. God rest his soul, who died far too soon.

Fun fact : Disney found inspiration in this area for one of his hotels at Disneyland, his Newport Bay Club, which features a small lighthouse on a lake and is promoted as having “a New England vibe.”

During the entire cruise we experienced that wonderful maritime atmosphere of the 1920s in almost everything.

We'll arrive in New York tomorrow morning. But that's a story for a separate, next blog post.

Extra pictures : "Vehicles"