Provence roundtrip 2011: travel Report

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Day 1 29/06 To Sancerre St-Satur

After Paris, taking the famous N7, the 'old' road to the sun. In Fontainebleau, we visit the

huge castle and expansive castle park (Unesco). Then Montargis. It promises us many canals, but we don't see many. Tanya fancies macaroons, but they're too expensive. So, something cold, as it's already warm. Hotel de la Loîre in Sancerre gives us everything its name promises: a stunning view over the Loîre and a room completely decorated in Louis XV style. We sleep in a biscuit tin. We eat in a modest restaurant. Wim tries the infamous suacisse Andouilette AAAA.

Day 2 30/06 To Vienne

Waking up in a "royal bed"—there's something special about it. A simple breakfast and a quick photoshoot a bit further on in La Charité-sur-Loire, which reveals a stunningly convoluted town with its bridge over the river. Through countless vineyards and the good old-fashioned N7, we continue to Nevers, the city of Sainte-Bernadette. The cathedral is magnificent and has stunning (modern) stained-glass windows that create a symphonic play of light. Otherwise, Nevers is simply beautiful and charming. But then there's Moulins. Charming streets, and we're going to eat at the fantastic Le

Grand Café, all Art Nouveau, curls, and mirrors. A monument in itself. I tried three different types of beef tartare.

Via Lyon, where, as expected, things moved a bit slower, we end up in Vienne for a night in a super-cheap, Formula 1-style hotel with a small room to compensate for what awaits us tomorrow. We looked for something cheap to eat in Vienne, which is teeming with life, music, and bustle, and where parking is hard to come by. The fast food is disappointing, and we drive back along the Loîre, leaving the crowds behind.

Day 3 01/07 To Lourmarin (Mas de Guilles)

The N7 isn't making much progress, so we jump on the toll road. Things are moving along nicely thanks to Simple Minds in the CD-player . Once we're on the Autoroute de Soleil and enter the southern Luberon region, it's a wow, and how beautiful it is around every bend. That afternoon, we arrive at our first stop (4 days), Lourmarin, where we're immediately immersed in a cozy Provençal atmosphere.

A market full of scents, colors, and enchantment. In the typical street, we stop at two terraces and enjoy our arrival in Provence.

The hotel is nearby. Wim indulges in the local pastis Casanis and, for food, an aioli platter. Welcome! Mas de Guilles is a relay of silence. And very consistent. A private code for the gate of a vast estate. Our room is a modern suite, with a separate area for Tanya, a jacuzzi, a huge bed, and a private terrace covered in green vines and grapevines. At the hotel, the pool is a real invigorator. In the evening, we have a delicious meal at L'Insolite, where the relaxed service and the attractive wine list, plus reasonably priced menus, make it our "home restaurant." Nella found the crème brûlée with red berries irresistible, and Wim's supreme beef is delicious. Albert Camus's spirit is in the air.

Day 4 02/07 Through the Luberon

After a stunningly extensive (but expensive, €16) breakfast, we set off to explore the Luberon. Things get off to a great start, where a Flemish wedding is taking place at the top of the picturesque, typical village of Bonnieux. In an inconspicuous church on the hill with

A party in the adjacent garden and some stunning views of the surrounding area, with Mont Ventoux at the end. We also stopped briefly in the tranquil town of Lacoste, home to the Marquis de Sade's castle, and then continued on to beautiful Ménerbes, where a refreshing drink on a simple balcony with a view was incredibly welcome.

Then on to Rousillon. This is one of the most beautiful villages in France. Famous for its ochre-red soil, where the pigments originate. We eat pathetically heavy, over-prepared mega-sandwiches and stroll happily past souvenir shops, boutiques, terraces, and winding streets. The spirit of Van Gogh, Rimbaud, and Tuttiquanti is not far away, so Wim buys a bottle of Absinthe. Passing by the small village of Saignon, where I dined one evening last year, only the charming square with its fountain proves particularly typical and photogenic. Back to Lourmarin for more extensive sunbathing and swimming.

Day 5 03/07 Sunday, lazy day

A hearty breakfast, doing nothing, pampering, a jacuzzi... Wim heads into the village on his own. Drinking pastis and discussing politics and DSK with the locals in their juicy dialect. I buy sandwiches that we have prepared with local products by an old grocer, and devour them on our romantic terrace with a squid dish as an aperitif and a slice of fresh watermelon. In the evening, we enjoy a delicious meal at the slightly more expensive gastronomic restaurant after a game of pétanque, in which the girls put up a good fight.

Day 6 04/07 Aix-en-Provence

Our visit to Aix is overwhelming. The wide promenade, the Cours Mirabeau, and its fountains suggest the French consider this their favorite place to live. It's also very expensive. Aix, the city of Emile Zola, but especially of Cézanne, whose presence is omnipresent. It's pleasant to stroll along the narrow streets and market square, and after a pasta dish, we return to indulge in the luxury of our hotel for the last time. In the evening, we explore the quieter streets, visit Lourmarin Castle, and enjoy our last delicious meal on the terrace where we're already somewhat regulars.

Day 7 05/07 to Fontvieille (Val Majour – Best Western)

In the morning, we visit the magnificent Fontaine-de-Vaucluse. We walk to the extraordinary spring that produced the clearest water ever. The walk is delightful. We flirt with buying hats and street signs, but they're too expensive. In Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Nella buys an antique book. We have a drink at the fantastic, also Art Nouveau, Café de la France, and stroll past countless watermills. It's a town of antiques, but everything is closed. We found a cheap dish of the day and then on to Fontvieille.

Quiet, charming, friendly, and not stuffy like in Lourmarin, with the spontaneous, helpful Sandrine at the reception. All five of our suitcases have to be carried up the stairs because we're sleeping in the hotel's largest room, Le Pigonnier. The dovecotes are still there on Tanya's side. Swimming, sunbathing, and then on to the nearby village where, after checking all the restaurants, we find a cozy indoor terrace under the grapes with an attractive menu at a good price, chez Adrian. Starter and main course €18, plus a piche of rosé. Life is good sometimes. Tanya declares chocolate moelleux sacred.

Day 8 06/07 to Les Baux and St-Remy-en-Provence

St-Rémy, the city of Van Gogh. But first, Les Baux, a fascinating fortified village with a medieval castle perched on rocky slopes and charming shops. We buy some

Soap cure, name tags à la Place de la Siëste, and Dad gave Tanya a necklace that she clearly found very beautiful and cool. Beautiful views, charming streets. And we indulged in those special foie gras terrines or Provencale-style tapenades, books, and more.

There's a market in Saint-Rémy. We're constantly tempted by the locals and sampled, which leads us to buy some local cheese, a bottle of red Burgundy, some prepared garlic cloves, and an ashtray. We have lunch next to the market, where Wim is served a symphony of appetizers in a glass (photo). We sunbathe, swim, read, and in the evening, we enjoy steer meat in sauce, a local specialty, and escargots in a courtyard garden.

Day 9 07/07 tennis and rest

At 10am appointment with the hotel owner Jean-Pierre and Roger Badet + woman who takes care of the tennis court

named after him. A fun match that we won (6-3 / 5-6 / + the tiebreak) despite a nasty fall right on my palm. The girls stayed around the pool to have a little something to eat.

Wim strolls into the village, has an aperitif and a bite to eat, and tries to take a nap, but it doesn't work out well. The weather is getting a bit overcast. In the evening, we have a poor and overpriced meal at La Planète. Tanya, however, has a truly delicious meal there. Wim finishes Jonathan Franzen's book and masterpiece "The Corrections" and all his books about Provence.

Day 10 08/07 to the Camargue and les Saintes Maries de la Mer

A day where we'll fully experience Les Bouches-des-Rhône. We'll start in the beautiful city of Arles, strolling past the Roman amphitheater, the arena, the monastery, and some of the city's main streets. From there, we'll travel along quiet roads along the right-hand side of the main road.

Rhône practically to the sea, then wander along small paths with stunning natural views, lagoons, mudflats, salt marshes, marshes with their many birds and also with bulls and white horses.

In Les Saintes Marie de la Mer, we see the sea for the only time this trip. Touristy beaches and countless fish restaurants. Nella has Tiflettes (shellfish), and I, of course, have the Soupe de Poissons with rouille, croutons, and for the main course, fish rouille with potatoes in sauce. We drive back to the hotel, where Dad indulges in some sporty driving and overtaking on these charming winding roads. At Chez Adrien, we go for the Aioli, a truly succulent sirloin steak, a fish skewer, and, of course, the Moeulleux. We sleep like babies with the constant sound of grasshoppers in the background, despite a few mosquito bites.

Day 11 09/07 to le Pont-du-Gard

This impressive Roman construction from the first century provides the backdrop for many beautiful photos, though it's a very touristy site and costs €15. In the afternoon, we relax on a terrace, enjoy our purchased hats, and Mom receives a wrought-iron flowerpot hanger for the garden. We fill up on aperitifs, and I eat a skewer of Coquilles Saint-Jacques at La Cuisine, where fans also gently spray water. Then finally, a nap, a swim, and some sunbathing while the girls download e-books and upload our photos to the iPad. Then, our last Adrien inside, and it was another delicious treat. This time, Nella and I skipped a nightcap on the hotel terrace; we have to leave tomorrow.

Day 12 10/07 To Grignan and Frederik's Le Mas des Poètes

Packing our bags, we first stop in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but the wine is very expensive. We picnic somewhere along the way, and around 1 p.m. we see the beautiful Grignan on a hill, closed for a festival. We arrive at Le Mas des Poètes . Frederik welcomes us, and we are delighted with the room and the setting. Surprise!

Thomas Van Parijs, former director of the NH Hotel Bruges, where I did business this year, is also here for four days with his wife Sophie, children Jonas and Lotte, and friends Mike and Inge with their children Jeroom, Louise, and Cara. We're spending almost all of these days together in a pleasant, family atmosphere. We're testing out the pool, and around 6 p.m., we're all going to a winery around the corner for a tasting. I'm buying six bottles of red and six bottles of white Coteaux du Tricastin. A table d'hôte is planned for that evening, and we're all having an aperitif and eating together on the terrace: lovely!

Day 13 11/07 visit Montélimar, Grignan and BBQ

We visit the nougat town of Montélimar and look for cheap, sturdy sneakers because we plan to go canyoning the day after tomorrow. In Grignan, we stroll around the charming village.

We're in the town center looking for urgent drinks and food. We walk away from a terrace because they were initially slow and then clumsy. Elsewhere, we wait patiently and enjoy a light lunch with a local salad. In the afternoon, we relax and swim, then head to the village of Chantemerle for a pastis and to take in a local pétanque tournament with fascinatingly skilled players.

Because the meal together last night was so enjoyable, we'd planned a BBQ. Wim initially wanted to participate in the village tournament, but the three families are already friends, and we have a great time together. At 9 p.m., we watch the first episode of the VTM series "Met 4 in Bed," in which Frederik and Danny participated with their Mas. They're certainly doing well. We sleep wonderfully.

Day 14 12/07 on to the top of Mont Ventoux

Thomas and Inge, true cycling enthusiasts, will climb the famous Mont de Sault, an hour and a half's drive from here. We'll depart later, passing Vaison-la-Romaine and Malaucéne, and will cycle up a truly oppressive, winding road full of sharp bends and ravines, with ominous views and panoramic views and daunting gradients to the summit. From the famous lunar landscape and the famous meteorite tower, passing all sorts of struggling cyclists, it becomes truly impressive. This mountain lives up to its legend and reputation. We'll cycle over the summit and descend to Chalet Reynard where we await our heroes. When we finally see Thomas, still in top form, we turn back

encouragingly behind him. He cheers.

Afterward, we decide to look for Inge, who needs it a little more. We stop about eight times to support her, take beautiful photos (including at the Tom Simpson memorial), and Inge finally reaches the summit. Joy, happiness, and atmosphere abound. Then we descend and eat bruschetta together. In the evening, Nella organizes a champions' club with gifts and flowers, and pictures on the iPad, while we start with a Spanish evening in the garden. Fresh sangria, snacks, and a freshly made paella complete the day. In "with 4 in bed," it's the episode of Mas de Poètes itself. A good impression, right?

Day 15 13/07 canyoning in the Ardéche

Up early. We have to be there at 9 a.m., and it's a 1-hour-and-45-minute drive. Nella and Inge are staying home because Cara is very ill. Sophie and I are driving. Once we arrive, we try on those cumbersome wetsuits and follow the instructors for another 40 minutes, deeper into the mountains. There, we get dressed.

Shoes on, helmet on, and above all, an exhausting hike of about 50 minutes uphill over boulders, narrow paths, and dense undergrowth to consume our packed lunch in water bottles in floating backpacks on a plateau next to small waterfalls around 11:30 am.

And then we go for it. We slide and slide down gorges and water slopes, jumping from 3-4 meters, 7 meters (Tanya!), and three people even from 10 meters. It's three hours of exhausting struggle, swimming, falling, sliding, jumping, and splashing in those strange wetsuits that float. It's a very adventurous and fantastic experience, although Wim is racked with muscle pain, which he's been struggling with since a game of water basketball. After the long drive back, we're all exhausted. We eat pizza, pasta, or steak together, and after episode 3 of "4 in Bed," I fall asleep, completely exhausted.

Day 16 14/07 sleeping in, saying goodbye, doing nothing (14 July)

After a late breakfast, our friends leave. We stroll through Grignan, have lunch, buy some Provençal vegetables along the road, and take a long, deep nap. Cleaning up, packing. Dinner in Chantemerle. Simple.

Day 17 15/07 Back to Bruges

Making sandwiches, leaving at 7 a.m., and driving to Bruges in one go, 8 hours. That's it. We did 3,168 km.

More photos can be found at www.flickr.com/Photos/wimvanbesien . They're in the four folders on the right labeled "Provence 2011...". It's best to click on 'slideshow'.