Holiday trip Lot & Dordogne (FR) 2012

Translation disclaimer: This page was translated using automated software for your convenience. No guarantee is given regarding the accuracy of the translation. The content will be manually reviewed later.

Day 1: to Saint-Privat des Prés.

Tanya went to Werchter for the first time, just for a day. It was great that she saw The Cure there, 27 years later than her father (at De Brielpoort). Less fun was that she had to stay overnight. We took the 4:00 a.m. train, after which I picked her up at the station at 6:00 a.m., we degreased and disinfected her at home, threw her in the backseat, and then it was a straight eight-hour drive to Saint-Privat on the border between the Charente and Aquitaine regions.

Fed up with the annoying Lille-Paris toll road and its periphery, I detoured via Dunkerque-Boulogne, Rouen, and Le Mans. From Angoulème, I took small roads until we reached old friend Guy's house. I hadn't seen Guy since the late 80s. He has a nice place with an apartment for us. But it's truly in "la France profonde," the middle of nowhere, but with an enclave of a good 50% British. It was Friday night and happy hour, so we ate at what I think was the only restaurant in the area run by English people. Guy is now British, living there after his time in Dubai with his partner, Judith. We had a pleasant chat. The food, cooked by English people, was good, but cheap. Guy ordered mussels; I'd never seen such small ones… We went to bed early.

Day 2: from Guy to Puy.

The next morning, we're off to our first stop for the week: the Malbec gîte near Puy-l'Évêque along the Lot River. But first, we're going to visit Périgueux before heading south. And what a stroke of luck! Easily accessible, with a lovely central parking lot under a renovated, modern square, the tourist office, public automatic, free, and clean restrooms, and immediate access to the medieval city center with its winding streets, delightful nooks and crannies, and countless charming squares dotted with terraces and eateries, without it feeling touristy—you even walk around on your own, so to speak. A perfect example for tourist cities. Hello Bruges!

This city was once a place of pilgrimage on the way to Compostela. There aren't too many religious symbols, but you can feel it in the depths. Place de la Vertu, Rue des Dépêchés. There's the Cathédrale Saint Front, shaped like a Greek cross, where an organ concert is taking place. I hear Haëndel. The church itself is reminiscent of the Sacré-Coeur in Paris.

It's hot. Thirst is building. On a terrace, we order two small salads and one "plate du terroir" for €17, topped with a giant oven-baked potato with cream, heaps of lettuce, cuisses en confit de duck, magret de duck, smoked dried duck slices, (sorry) foie gras, rillettes, and another duck dish. Delicious, we share and eat our fill. Value for money. Well, we're in the Périgord, but the duck is available everywhere here. Confit partout. And they really don't have a kind of Gaia here, I learn later. Worse. Animal rights? My conversation partners really don't know what I'm talking about...

On the way back I let myself go on the winding départementals with little traffic. I reward five months of eco mode by completely wrongly testing the XF in sport mode and applying the manual override of the eight-speed automatic. Along hills and valleys, forests and meadows, roaring to the tune of "Someone Somewhere in Summertime" while The Simple Minds will soon be on the Werchter stage. :-) Turns out there's still a little boy who enjoys driving inside me.

Arriving in Puy, we drive across the Lot River. The town is beautifully situated above the bridge, with its houses and keep nestled against the ochre rock walls. Three kilometers further on, with views of vast vineyards, a swimming pool all to ourselves, a terrace, and a BBQ, our gîte turns out to be beautifully built, respecting the old winemaking functions (barrel patterns in the wall) but with every comfort. Nice and cool, a spacious living room, and all the amenities. We go shopping at the Intermarché and decide, if we really want to make the most of our gîte, to go for it. This is a new experience for our family. You can grab an aperitif from the fridge anytime. No more being dependent on bar hours and prices or whatever, and you can lie and sit wherever and however you like. We're enjoying the prospect.

Day 3: Relax.

Or at least that was the plan: sunbathing, swimming, an afternoon barbecue, relaxing—in short, recharging our batteries, reading, pampering ourselves, and enjoying our gîte. Too bad, it's drizzling, but I pick up fresh croissants (every day) and a baguette at 8 a.m.

We change our plans, visit a lively Sunday flea market in Prayssac, enjoy guessing games on a terrace, and decide to have lunch with snacks and a nap in our chalet, as Nella puts it. In the afternoon, the sky clears up, and we prepare for the Spain-Italy European Championship final. Because of Nella's nationality, of course, as a tifosi of the Azurri. It quickly becomes clear that's not going to happen. Spain is finally/unfortunately playing its best match yet, and once the chance to make it 2-1 goes to waste, it's lost. Nevertheless, we sleep wonderfully here. I feel much better than at home...

Day 4: Now for some real sunbathing.

Lovely pool, terrace, and private BBQ with a unique view (photo: breakfast), it's something special. We take advantage, barbecue, enjoy some wine, and eat outside three times. I drift off, and that's all there is to it.

Day 5: to Saint-Cirq-Lapopie/ Cahors/ Luzech

A swift drive to St-Cirq, and yes, it is indeed one of the most beautiful villages in France. The drive itself is a pleasure; forests, valleys, and small, typical villages are always vibrant. The medieval winding streets with authentic medieval houses, balconies, and unexpected terraces are captivating. But also the climb to the ruins at the top for enchanting views over the Lot, the valleys, and the "gnome village" itself. We're taking photos to bursting. And yet, it's not overrun here. Cool. In a restaurant covered in vine leaves, thankfully—we're panting—we get a huge plate with tons of meat, salad, and crispy fries for next to nothing. One dish is more than three people can finish. Lesson learned: never expect to be left with too little.

On the way back, I'm really not in the mood for the heat of Cahors. I only navigate to the unmissable Pont Valentré (€14), with its unique shape bordered by three square towers. Beautiful. Then on to the small town of Luzech on the way back. It's back to crawling up in the heat to the ruins of the keep for the view. Once back home, Wim immediately dives into the pool. Cool! Fresh drinks, snacks, and a good, thick book: "Freedom," Jonathan Franzen's masterpiece, captivating and captivating, which I alternately read in English as an iBook and in Dutch as a paperback. And I'm annoyed by the Dutch translations. "Hou er met op" (Stop with it) becomes: "now he can do it again." And do you know what "uitvallen" (flattening out) means? Hooking up = giving a girl a turn, having some serious sex... but "flattening out" her? Absolutely!

Day 6: Puy-l'Évêque

First, we have breakfast in the sun, then it drizzles the rest of the day. In the afternoon, we visit Puy itself. But as always, everything loses its charm when it stays so gray. At 6 p.m., we visit Luc, the father of Flemish Maarten, who, with his wife Chrystelle "Badozo," runs the gîte, built it themselves, and is finishing a second one this week. The Château Famaey, home to the eponymous wines, which we overlook from our terrace lawn, has been in residence since 2003. The passion that, as always, resonates with winemakers in his stories, made Luc, a bank branch manager, change his life choices. And with success. Delicious Cahors wine, primarily based on Malbec, but in many forms, flavors, labels, and varieties. They export to 20 states in the USA, Canada, South America, Hong Kong, Japan, and Taiwan. His marketing spiel has me hanging on his every word.

At the Pont, there's a mini-market of local producers along the riverbank. There are hardly any tourists (or not yet). You can bring your own knife and fork and sit at tables, sample the cheeses, duck pieces, local wine, vegetables, and specialties, and eat them there. Dirt cheap. But we had made a reservation at a crêperie overlooking the Puy and the river. I'm having a galette called "le soleil du Quercy," which is literally served in that shape, delicious with a rocamadour fermier (my third by now) as the sun and strips of duck fumé as the rays. Yum. And a rouge Malbec Famaey, of course.

Day 7: to Rocamadour

It's raining again. Damn. "That's unusual here." Well, that's been our Belgian spring and summer so far. When, after a 75-minute drive, we see Rocamadour nestled against the limestone cliffs in the Vallée d'Alzou, we're immediately impressed. That wow factor of this exceptionally beautiful and spectacular town... we understand why it's a must-see. The charming streets full of historic buildings, shops, and a characterful atmosphere give us courage to climb the first 200 steps to the magnificent Sanctuaries. The crypts, chapels, turrets, ledges, vistas... an unforgettable visit. Ultimately, we'll climb over 350 steps, a world-class achievement for our Nella. Congratulations, little one.

But for the second part, we take the inclined, paid elevator. Then, at the castle, we have to clamber and climb all over the ramparts, but the views are absolutely worth it. And they're not easy to describe in a simple, quick blog post. The walk along the Way of the Cross, which pilgrims used to do on their knees, is leafy and peaceful. We take advantage of a fortunate covered terrace (it's raining again) to regain our composure, and Wim slurps his first cassoulet "maison" with gusto. What a treat! Above L'Hospitalet, we take another panoramic photo (there was still so much to do there, but it's pouring) and then return via the also unvisited Gourdon. In the evening, we're finally able to sit outside for a while.

Day 8: dolce far niente

Hello! We were promised sunshine for days today, and it's not really breaking through. So, I'm packing, blogging, and throwing together a leftover lunch. I still want to go to that pool, but as compensation, we're booking a table at the gastrorestaurant Côté Lot above Puy, where you have a wide-angle panoramic view of the surroundings. Fabulous. Tomorrow, our first week is already over... At 2 p.m., still no sun. I'm starting to understand why some people, out of sheer desperation, as I read last week, book late: guaranteed sun, direct, no matter where. I would never do that. Drop me off on a sun-drenched Costa with all the amenities, and I'd rather die... '-). Although, yes.

But we're not letting it get to us. Pastisje, and instead of a sunbathing area or swimming pool, this blog is already up to date. And now for the rest of the snacks, salads, and "Freedom"... and that dinner with a view, à la grande.

ttp:// www.flickr.com/photos/wimvanbesien/sets/72157630663575402/

Day 9: to Belvès.

Tidy is nice. Goodbye. A quick look at the new gîte Sauvignon, "to be completed" today, and then off to our guest house, Le Petit Bonheur, in Belvès. The perfect name for a little paradise decorated by a Flemish couple, Marnic and Carine. It's a truly charming place run by a couple who have transformed hospitality into a higher purpose in life. I immediately jumped into the pool after a warm welcome, and for me… with a Duvel. There goes my plans to relax and only drink local drinks (wine, pastis, etc.).

In the evening, there's a convivial table d'hôte. Nine of us gather around a round table with a central rotating platform. We get to know our hosts and fellow residents better. Le Petit bonheur . Rightly so, what's in a name? It's a perfect setting and an ideal home for Burgundians aspiring to become Dordogne natives. The interior is charming and incredibly cozy, with a sun terrace, a shaded terrace, a large garden, and a large, inviting outdoor bar area. This is truly a vacation!

Day 10: Along the Dordogne: Saint-Cyprien, Beynac-et-Cazenac, La Roque-Gageac

It's threatening to rain all day. Too bad. We head to the charming Sunday market in Saint-Cyprien. Stalls of all kinds are scattered across the market. Spices, clothes, flowers, local specialties and cheeses, gadgets, vegetables, quirky knick-knacks... a symphony of aromas and flavors. We buy, among other things, two truffles (for only €6), a pair of shorts, herbs, dried black trumpets, a raincoat for Tanya, and a duck salami with truffle for €3. Absolutely. We follow the winding Dordogne river to Beynac.

This beautiful village on the shore, full of boats and canoes, was once the setting for the film "Chocolat," starring La Binoche. It's a steep climb along narrow, winding medieval streets lined with charming houses, all built against the cliffs. Stunning vistas, flower gardens, unexpected nooks and crannies... all the way to the majestic castle at the top. I feel like I'm in Sleeping Beauty or (no offense intended) a beautiful, romantic medieval Disney film. We're taking photos to bursting. At the top, we're finally caught in a downpour, so we have lunch with a delicious local salad.

Then we continue to La Rogue-la-Gageac, a charming village with a streetscape, where we spend an hour cruising on historically reconstructed boats, offering stunning views of castles, cliffs, and old houses clinging to the rocks. I enjoy the well-organized, professional, and friendly commentary in French, but audio guides in all languages are also available. Most Bruges boatmen could learn a thing or two from this (see also the blog post " Is Bruges getting sanded up again? "). Nella has outdone herself again with all that climbing today, but it was an impressively fantastic day, and we're rightly tired.

Day 11: On the way to Sarlat

Sarlat-La-Canéda is one of the region's must-sees and a visitor attraction in itself. The town is relatively flat, full of winding streets, alleyways, and charming squares with terraces. It's a charming place. Well-maintained houses and monuments, most of which still retain their medieval and UNESCO heritage heritage. I ate aguillettes (fillets) of duck with the famous pommes de terre sarladaises. We stocked up on some delicacies. On our way back, we bought some things at a supermarket for a picnic this week, and a few jars of cassoulet to take home. It was a beautiful, warm day.

Day 12: Montpazier and its surroundings

Montpazier is one of the ten "les plus beaux villages de France" (the most beautiful villages in France) within a 50-kilometer radius (including Belvès itself). It's a medieval bastille, albeit flat and with a checkerboard pattern. Via Beaumont, we'll head to the hamlet of Cadouin, near a beautiful old abbey, for a bite to eat, and then a long nap, reading, and a game of pétanque, where Tanya cleans her parents' corner with a swift 14-11-2. Then we'll picnic with a bottle of local wine after a generous aperitif of... Belgian beers.

Day 13: Les Jardins de Marqueyssac, evening at Belvès with Marché Gourmand and further.

This turned out to be a special day. The weather is finally a bit better. Perfect for visiting the "hanging" gardens of Marqueyssac. Boxwood bushes trimmed into every imaginable shape, and along various hiking trails, you'll enjoy majestic views of Castenaud, other castles and villages, and a belvedere overlooking the vast green Dordogne Valley. A paradise in itself, child-friendly, and an unforgettable setting. A tourist gem. Tanya takes lots of lovely photos, which she edits the same day on her blog into her own version of Alice in Wonderland . Visit her for a creative approach. Highly recommended.

In the evening, we prepare to visit Belvès with our hosts and two fellow guests and participate in the Marché Gourmand. Besides a charming central square and buildings, the medieval town also boasts unexpected nooks and crannies and… troglodytes. These caverns, literally beneath the city center, were once inhabited in a very primitive way. Well worth a visit, even though the English commentary was heavily "Allo-Allo." And then there's the feasting and the feasting: a wealth of choice. Democratic. Primitive yet authentic, yet convivial, and with all the ingredients of a folk festival. This continues in Le Petit Bonheur with cha-cha demonstrations (especially Nella and Carine) and half-dances. Suddenly, all three couples were slow dancing. Yes, we Flemish are good at that, aren't we? Our version of a ball is popular. Quite entertaining, of course.

Day 14: Along the Vézère into the greenery and prehistory.

Because it turned out the night before that people were interested in taking a trip in the Jaguar, we went for a drive around the area with Luc, Christine, Marnic, and Carine. Among other things, we crossed the original route to Compostela. It touched me when I thought of all those monks who used to travel, and of which we'd seen so many traces in the region. A piece of history passed by. Afterwards, it turned out there was a nail in my already half-flat front tire. But for €12.50, they fixed it at the local garage. Phew.

Off we go, the three of us. We take a beautiful panoramic route from La Bugue and follow the Vézère towards Les Eyzies-de-Taynac to St.-Léon, another idyllic village. We have lunch in a large garden. Gésiers d'oie. Along the way, we see many crevices with troglodyte remains. Les Eyzies (don't pronounce it like a Dutch person there: Les Zizis) is the region of prehistoric caves. Lascaux is nearby, but we don't feel the need to see the replica of the famous rock carvings in person while we're waiting in line. We mainly enjoy, as always, the charming villages and the beautiful region. And the food, my friends…

Day 15: rest and pack

Packing day and a few last-minute things. We're taking advantage of the reasonable weather to finish our book outside. We have lunch at Belvès and then eat our own "leftovers" in the evening.

Day 16: to Saumur (Loîre)

Because it's the Fourth of July and the Saturday of a holiday change, I was worried about terrible traffic. Although I don't want to go via Paris anyway, three days ago I booked an extra day at a nice little hotel I know, "au Bords de la Loîre," on the island in the middle of the river near Saumur. It's flat here and gray again, but the town is beautifully situated on the wide Loîre with a view of the old town, dominated by its castle.

Saumur is the missing link from a previous trip long ago. There's a small market, and we relax at a brasserie but don't try Cadre Noir (our beloved cava alternative). After that, we walk to the top of the town. We don't notice much of July 14th, except for the evening noise from the folk festival across the water, which erupts in a spectacular fireworks display just as I'm falling asleep... Tomorrow we drive...

Day 17: Home

The next morning, we drove in less than five hours (no traffic) via the Opal Coast to Bruges, where there was actually some sunshine. We arrived shortly after 1 p.m. We covered 2,920 km.

PS 1 : After-effects 1. The next day, I'm making a steaming pasta dish with plenty of truffles. Delicious, especially considering how much it would cost at a restaurant.

PS 2 : After-effects 2. Because we're so impressed with Le Petit Bonheur as our little earthly paradise, we're going back for a week at the end of August on the gîte option. With Ryanair, it's €50 round trip to Bergerac, a 50-minute drive away. Rental cars cost €30/day, and there's still so much to see: Castelnaud, castles, caves, villages including Domme, Limieux, and I definitely want to go paragliding or microlighting, and maybe kayaking... and just enjoy!!!

To be continued. There's so much more to see and do in the Dordogne in a smaller area than in Provence. It's greener, more diverse, more gastronomic, and yes, more history. Only the weather is less stable there...

More photos can be found on Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/wimvanbesien/sets/72157630663611912/ and http://www.flickr.com/photos/wimvanbesien/sets/72157630663559406/