Rising in the Land of the Rising Sun: Yokohama – Kobe – Osaka – Hiroshima – Beppu – Fukuoka.

Translation disclaimer: This page was translated using automated software for your convenience. No guarantee is given regarding the accuracy of the translation. The content will be manually reviewed later.

A smooth transfer to the port of Yokohama and equally smooth embarkation onto the Silver Whisper. We went straight to the pool terrace for aperitifs and lunch, which always gave us that instant holiday feeling. We were relaxing in the sun. Waiter Akash brought me a chilled wet towel, later a fruit skewer, and later still, he came to clean my glasses and the screens of my iPhone and iPad.

It's clear. This cruise line is known for its top-notch service, and from now on, everyone in the bars and restaurants will address us by our names. Once in our stateroom, called a suite everywhere here , we're introduced to our handsome butler, Lawrence, who asks what we can pack in our fridge and places a bottle of champagne in an ice bucket. In short, a luxurious treat awaits us, as all drinks, including cocktails, champagne, and caviar, are included. We'll want for nothing, that much is clear.

We settled in and enjoyed a pre-dinner show featuring the incredibly energetic Silver Singers & Dancers, followed by a presentation by cruise staff and entertainers from cruise director Mos (Zimbabwe/UK). My verdict, as a former colleague: top guy, top CD. That evening, we watched the departure from our veranda balcony, which looked festive with the beautiful, modern harbor buildings on the seafront and a Ferris wheel constantly changing colors in a vibrant palette.

This second-largest city, practically attached to and only half an hour from Tokyo, was once a small fishing village, but its harbor has now grown into a true, organic, construction-intensive marvel. The Landmark Tower and that imposing wheel on the beautifully landscaped 700-meter Waterfront, filled with the debris of the Great Kanto Earthquake, offer a magnificent view from a ship sailing offshore.

The next day at sea we arrange everything and in the evening our butler in a tailcoat and white gloves accompanies us to the Captains Gala Cocktail Party, where Master Dariusz Grzelak , a friendly Pole, greets us.

OSAKA

In Kobe we'll be moored for two days. Curiously, the sun rises at 6:15 AM in mid-October but sets at 5:35 PM. I'm taking the day trip to Osaka, about an hour's drive away.

What immediately strikes me is the urban layout of the cities. A network of endless highways and metro lines, channeled above and below each other on viaducts and pillars, sometimes even four above, below, and through each other. Everywhere there are smooth, automatic toll booths. They also cross rivers, canals, and canals, and are crisscrossed with covered walkways . Only in the heart of a few neighborhoods can you cross a street; otherwise, only pedestrian bridges are available.

First, we visit the Shitennoji temple, built 1,400 years ago to commemorate a war victory. The reddish-brown decorations are striking, and two giant monster men seem like a great photo opportunity.

Then on to the impressive feudal Himeji Castle, built on an elevated piece of land of some 2.6 km², protected by sturdy, fortified defensive walls that played a major role in the struggling unification of Japan in the sixteenth century. The central castle rises eight stories high on a massive stone foundation, protecting it from ferocious, attacking swordsmen.

Inside, an impressive armory filled with opulent martial equipment, and each floor holds museum-like surprises from a bygone era, mysterious to us. They tell the story of the Osaka area in a whirlwind of magnificent, illustrative artifacts. Everything is accessed by stairs, organized as a single flight up and a single flight down. It has to be, as there are massive crowds and countless classes of schoolchildren in their distinctively colored caps. Those waiting outside have to wait in line for hours because only a few are allowed in. But that doesn't apply to us. Throughout the entire trip, we'll be given priority as VIPs everywhere.

On the eighth floor, you're rewarded with stunning 360° panoramic views of the grounds and the city. The gilded rooflines feature decorative ornamentation and bas-reliefs sculpted in the form of crouched tigers covered in gold leaf. I find this beautiful, unique castle vintage Japanese, and it must be incredibly beautiful during the spring blossom season.

Our guide's terrible English leads to hilarious ramblings, such as: " It's a very big castle. There are a lot of restrooms in the castle." And confusing sentences like: " There are many chopping chops. Shopping shops?" He even explains the concept of the condom Buddha , although I'm not sure I understood it, um, understood it. What strikes me is that their religion revolves heavily around cleanliness, which is certainly a fact and asset in this country. Buddha actually means " clean your mind ." Incidentally, you don't see any litter anywhere. Our guide: "Now we go directery to the ship ." When we leave the bus, we're insisted on taking our rubbish with us.

About Nippon and Japan: the land of the rising sun.

The weather is perfectly pleasant in October, unlike June, which is often very humid. Although earthquakes are constant here, usually barely noticeable, the summer is so dry that water shortages are often a threat. But September often brings terrible typhoons, a superpower that can sometimes completely replenish the water shortage in a single day. There are also some 110 active volcanoes and up to 3,000 mineral-filled hot springs called onsens, which are used to cure illnesses and provide wellness steam treatments. These are also an important community activity, recognizable by their tall, narrow, steam-spouting chimneys. Even snow monkeys are said to engage in hot water therapy.

Nippon is the old name for Japan, and the sometimes colorful mix of ancient folklore and traditional customs alongside ultra-modern applications is characteristically found in this country. Many social solutions are both positive and progressive. For example, education is completely free, and pensions are fixed at 65.

The birth rate is very low, barely one child per family (the same in Korea and China). Many Japanese are therefore single. The corporate culture provides for many things, such as childcare, sports, and recreational infrastructure. The automotive industry is massive, with its "Six Stars." Toyota (established in 1937) is the world's largest, alongside Honda, Nissan, Suzuki, Daihatsu, and Mitsubishi. However, the high taxes on cars and gasoline (cost based on size and consumption) are intended to offset the enormous cost of building and maintaining bridges and tunnels. What also surprises me is that five to twelve percent of Japan's population is Christian, and you can even find Jewish synagogues and mosques here.

I won't describe the ancient traditional culture here because of its endless, overwhelming richness. So, no stories about the lotus, pagodas, samurai, Okinawa (kamikaze training), sumo wrestlers, geishas, kimonos, or tea rituals.

We're heading towards the heart of the action, the bustling Dotonbori District, running parallel to the eponymous canal. Here you'll find a vibrant mix of hundreds of eateries, a veritable melting pot of street food, a lively bustle, and enticing neon-lit amusement arcades with street ornaments. Just look at the photo: the unmissable cow, dragon, and meat.

A foodie's paradise, which is immediately apparent from the crowds of people of all kinds around lunchtime. But here you'll find more than just culinary delights; you'll also find Bunraku (puppet theaters), Rakugo halls (known for their graphic novels), and cinemas.

During my free time in this vibrant part of town, I'm overwhelmed by local specialties that people patiently queue for at every eatery . Like octopus chunks, poured into baking tray holes, filled with batter, and then briefly baked in the oven. A true snack treat that could serve as lunch. I personally opt for something to satisfy my craving for delicious beef. Real food for beef lovers .

The menu features the famous Japanese Wagyu breed, fully marbled and with an incredible taste, colour and texture.

A priceless delicacy in our country, but here, Black Kobe Beef reigns supreme. The cows receive a stress-free breeding and feeding regimen for at least three years, with a special diet including a blend of select grains like corn and barley, including sake. Massages and relaxation therapy are part of their pampered lives. And let's not forget the rigorous assessment for the coveted quality mark.

My menu, which you can automatically type into a screen and order, consists of finely sliced steaks, simply seasoned with soy sauce, salt, and pepper. I get to roast them myself over a flaming burner built into the table. A true tasting sensation that fills my mouth with a truly carnal bliss. A flavor bomb for the reasonable price of 24 euros, including a half-liter of beer. A "wow" moment.

Since we're staying moored tonight, a two-piece orchestra treats us to drums and sharp beats from the quay. We're supposed to enjoy it from our terrace. Unfortunately, I quickly classify it as unnecessary noise.

KOBE

The next day, I explore Kobe City, a melting pot of no fewer than 98 different nationalities, each with its own distinct gastronomic culture. Its ideal port location played a crucial role in Japanese history. My first stop is Sorakuen Garden, a park in traditional Japanese landscape style, originally part of a former mayoral residence. Open since 1941.

The serene landscape with rock gardens, bonsai trees, bridges, streams, and waterfalls offers a pleasant, relaxing escape. I see exceptional trees and gardeners on ladders in action, experts in the art of pruning. The contrast with the surrounding high-rise buildings is somewhat unsightly, but look at it this way: local residents can enjoy this nearby green oasis whenever they want. And as a garden, it means: I'm here for you, come and relax. But yes, for a tourist, those surrounding apartment buildings are a real killer, at least for those seeking perfectly idyllic, unspoiled pictures.

A Japanese garden is unlike anything we're used to; thoughtfully designed in a world of symbols and meditative thoughts. Ying and Yang. Rocks and pebbles guide you past beautiful plants, an invitation to serene discovery that we in the West sometimes forget and neglect. The park reflects a timeless wandering, where practical considerations give way to surprising enrichments. Not seeking, yet finding.

Then we dive into another world: the Hakutsuru Sake Brewery, rebuilt after the 1995 earthquake.

The modern museum illustrates the sake brewing process and its trade through beautifully presented displays filled with large artifacts and reconstructions. Meanwhile, a less festive, more subdued Sake Festival takes place, with locals enjoying sake and snacks as early as 10:00 a.m.

Sake contains 15 to 16% alcohol and is made from rice. Its quality is categorized from regular to superior, with the difference being entirely due to the degree to which the rice grain has been polished, which requires a high level of craftsmanship. Kobe sake owes its fame to high-quality rice and the slightly colder climate.

Amidst the sake products, I'm surprised to see something that doesn't belong here: the Belgian beer Blue Moon, unknown to us, but spotted by me in many other countries. Our guide can't explain the connection, but he mentions that they enjoy beer, and certainly Belgian beer. Strange, but intriguing.

We continue our way to the imposing Mount Rokko, which dominates Kobe Bay.

Lush vegetation, crows, and a thrilling ride along winding roads with narrow bends and large mirrors at every turn lead us to Mt. Rokko Garden Terrace. Here, we enjoy a breathtaking panorama of the mountains, city, harbor, and bay, all the way to Osaka. At the summit, there are relaxation and sports facilities, making it a favorite spot for young people and (new) couples.

After a partially funicular descent on a funicular railway through a heavily rained-out jungle-like vegetation, we arrive in one of Japan's largest Chinatowns, the Nankinmachi district in Kobe, with hundreds of street food stalls, snacks, sweets, and souvenirs. After the port of Kobe opened in 1867, the Chinese quickly arrived, becoming known for their cuisine from the Kansai region . This is everywhere to be seen and tasted. This market-like environment is bursting with impressions, colors, flavors, and people-on-the-go .

HIROSHIMA .

Instead of the impressive but somber Peace Memorial Park and museum about that atomic bomb, you know, I choose to visit Miyajima Island (31 km²). Here stands one of Japan's most iconic symbols, the Torii Gate.

Torii, literally "bird perch," is a traditional Japanese gate that provides access to a Shinto shrine. The torii is seen as the spatial transition from the profane to the sacred. Shinto refers to birth, while temples are more associated with funerals and commemoration of the dead.

The ferry ride alone is worth it, with floating oyster farms passing by. Upon arrival, I'm greeted by small, wild deer that mingle with the crowds, completely unafraid. The road to the shrine is busy, with a line of hundreds of visitors we're free to pass. The sight of the magical (as in, floating on the water) Torii Gate is quite remarkable.

The majestic Itsukushima Jinja Shrine (UNESCO), built on stilts and piers over the water, exudes authentic mystical beauty, with ritual ceremonies taking place in the Prayer Hall and Main Hall connected by promenades. In short, a breathtaking vintage must-see , quintessentially Japanese, and sometimes with people in traditional costumes or kimonos. A truly magical experience and an invitation to all sorts of photo and film challenges, although it's a bit of a struggle to frame without unwanted people in the shot.

I browse the local village, buy some cute souvenirs for my granddaughter —a cute, soft deer hat and a mini Japanese kimono— and enjoy oysters and four local mini beer samples. However, a careless deer stumbles over my beer glass, which it then eagerly laps up. Beer gone. Happy deer.

BEPPU (Kyushu)

Beppu is known for its Dantesque lantern-lit geothermal baths, also known as the "eight scorching hells ." Think sulfurous fumes and reddish to dark blue water, depending on the mineralized earth. They have names like Blood Pond Hell, Steam Furnace Hell, Monk's Head Hell, Mountain Demon Hell, and Tornado Hell.

The city itself is a classic blend of tradition and modernity, but the real attraction lies a bus ride away: the 600 Usuki stone Buddhas. Scattered along a walking path beside the rocks, these Magaibutsu statues are carved into the mountainside and are therefore irremovable. Considered the first historical artifacts on Kyushu (we are on the southernmost of the three major Japanese islands) , they are considered national treasures with unique historical value. Their monotonous expressions are sometimes polychrome and yet somehow photogenic.

Next, I'll visit the ruins of Usuki Castle, surrounded by 1,000 cherry trees and incredibly famous as a Hanami (flower view) spot. Then I'll stroll through the old Samurai district with its traditional houses and streets. Of course, I'll also get to sample tea and unique ice cream flavors.

FUKUOKA (Kyushu)

Fukuoka boasts a rich history thanks to its strategic port (it's closer to Seoul than Tokyo) and, as the capital of Kyushu, has a very proactive government policy. Our itinerary offers a bite-sized slice of Japan's best: hot springs, gourmet cuisine, breathtaking scenery, a spiritual past, and yet a unique identity.

Ranked 22nd among the world's most livable cities, Fukuoka captivates with its vibrant shopping, culinary delights, excellent transportation networks, magnificent museums, lush green spaces, and a friendly, safe atmosphere imbued with a sense of openness.

Once home to the samurai, the city still breathes its glory days. The Kyushu National Museum offers a unique experience where visitors can don traditional costumes, awakening their inner feudal warrior. Local shrines, tranquil Zen gardens, and castle ruins tell the story of Fukuoka's prestigious glory days, when it proudly defended itself against two brutal Mongol invasions in the 13th century. It is also said to be the (disputed) place where the imperial family once set foot.

The trip to the famous Shinto shrine Dazaifu Tenman-Gu (the most important sacred site, along with the one in Kyoto) once again reveals the impressive, robust traffic infrastructure of this country. The highways crisscross like an ingenious urban network of one-way bridges, a kind of modern braid that allows traffic to harmoniously and efficiently "transcend" the city in up to five lanes. It resembles a sort of orderly spaghetti of Vilvoorde viaducts, neatly channeled through every modern city and clearly marked in Japanese, I hope. In English, which you can usually forget.

Downside: sometimes they tear past apartment buildings in a disruptive way. You don't want to live on the lowest three floors, looking out at the unsightly view of thick, giant pillars and always in the shadows. Upstairs, it doesn't seem any better: a constant view of car traffic with its din and pollution. Not for me. But on the wide avenues below, there are hardly any traffic jams, and a wonderful, expansive sense of space prevails. Moreover, Japan claims that its public transport system brings almost every citizen to within five, or at most ten, minutes of their home (bus, tram, metro, train). Eat that revamped transport plan from De Lijn. Pedestrians have covered walkways (protected from sun and rain) above the car lanes, but you do have to go up and down a lot of stairs. Think of it this way: an excellent, free fitness center.

This sacred Shinto site , dedicated to the spirit of Sugawara Michizane, a scholar and politician from the Heian period, reflects the city's rich spiritual traditions. The walk along the lively street leading there becomes a playful operetta full of local temptations, ranging from candy shops to flea markets. At the end, an enchanting setting awaits with Shinto gates, Japanese bridges, fountains, ponds, and temples with colorful, pointed roofs, which house a variety of unique altars and symbols of worship.

Everything and everyone is or can be "God" here, even poor wretches. That's why, say, trash isn't an option in this country, because garbage can't be God. Hence their commendable cleanliness. Because everyone can be a Buddha. Everyone is God. Oh, my God!

It's striking how many students, most of them wearing masks, are walking around here in their rather dull, conventional school uniforms. Lucky charms, alumina, and prayer trinkets are for sale everywhere, mostly related to academic and exam success. A small commercial enterprise in itself. And anywhere you can formulate, write down, and dedicate a wish. I confront our guide with one of those greeting cards, where the writer demands he become a famous baseball player. I say: " What will his reaction be if he eventually becomes a lousy basketball player?" He points to his bald head and says: " I also asked for a full head of hair back then."

Funny little tidbit (true story) . According to our enthusiastic guide, the Japanese speak such poor English simply because their teachers themselves are poor speakers. But they all learn the greeting quite repetitively: How are you? I'm fine. And you? Me too!

But the difference in pronunciation between "How are you" and "Who are you" is relatively minimal. For example, Japanese Prime Minister once greeted Bill Clinton with " Who are you?" Bill replied: "I am Bill, Hillary's husband ." The Prime Minister replied: "Me too!"

A visit to the Fukuoka Tower, built in 1989 for the Tokatopia Expo in honor of the city's centennial, offers breathtaking 360° views of the sea, the city, and Hakata Bay. The remarkable open elevator system adds a futuristic touch to this sleek, 234-meter-high coastal tower. The observation deck attracts not only tourists but also student groups, further illustrating the participatory school system with its frequent external study visits.

On the way back, our wonderfully articulate guide, who studied and lived extensively in the USA (hence the name), shares his personal reflections on the tumultuous history between Japan and China and its terrible wars. His impassioned plea for understanding, coexistence, and world peace, live-and-let-live, and mutual mistakes in history, gives me goosebumps and a euphoric round of applause from my companions. A moment that justifies a generous tip, my gesture of appreciation for his captivating stories and insights.

As night falls, the crossing to South Korea awaits, a new chapter in this Far East adventure. Continued in my blog post, "Can South Korea, Taiwan & Hong Kong still withstand the breath of the Chinese Dragon?"