Sri Lanka. On the road in a country on the move (September 2024).

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The sections in italics contain background information, trivia, and explanations about Sri Lanka and what we saw and experienced. You can skip this if you wish, but you'll miss a portion of "DNA"...

Day 1 and 2: departure in the afternoon and arrival the next morning with a 3.5 hour time difference, which is not too bad.

"Ayubowan!" Our guide, Bandu(la) Pererra, greets us with palms raised to his chest and a slight bow. It means "may you live long" and is appropriate at any time of day. He meets us at Bandaranaike International Airport and immediately instructs us on how to acquire local currency (€1 = approximately 333 rupees). Using foreign currency cash is prohibited in Sri Lanka, he explains. We're immediately given a garland, and after that late-night flight change in Dubai with Emirates, we arrive here early in the morning. So, before the hotel rooms are free. So, off we go to explore Negombo , a tourist and fishing hub.

Driving here is on the left. We pass saltwater lagoons and canals built by the Dutch to transport caught seafood deeper inland. I recognize the classic Asian "ribbon development" of ramshackle stalls selling juices, snacks, a few vegetables, and all sorts of other things. The many motorbikes, both helmeted and unhelmeted, the cluttered, old local buses (the red ones are government-owned; the garishly colored ones belong to private companies ), the tuk-tuks—it's a constant hustle and bustle. We pass stupas, pagodas, a brick factory, and Madonnas, standing in a kind of covered display case at intersections.

It's remarkable that 80% of this town is Christian and boasts some 120 churches. But here and there, you'll also find Hindu and Buddhist temples and even mosques. Everyone lives together in tolerance without any problems, even the Tamils now. Almost everywhere, people cherish a multicultural society with respect between religions. We could learn something from that in our little frog country.

On the beach, by a rough, dangerous sea—swimming is prohibited—is a huge open-air fish market. A little further on, tens of thousands of fish are openly dried on large plastic tarps on the beach. The fish stalls (barely any tarps) feel filthy by Western standards, and the stench is almost unbearable. Moreover, birds are teeming among the fish, especially crows and a species of small white heron. Not exactly appealing. At some of the tiny stalls (one woman, one board, twenty fish), sometimes with only one species, they lie in the sun, as it were, "ripening," because the minimal ice melts quickly. Yet, these primitive scenes and the very diverse selection of fish species appeal to me because of their authentic character.

The humidity and heat make us sweat profusely. On top of that, the dirty, muddy ground is covered in trash. Yet everyone here wears cheap, plastic "toe sluts." This perhaps explains why foot washing is so important in these religions, as is the practice of removing shoes during temple visits. For Buddhists, every full moon is Poya Day, a holiday filled with alcohol-free events where they offer flowers and rice in their temples.

After the fairytale-like Hindu universe, I find Buddhism one of the most colorful religions in the world. Buddhists don't consider their faith a religion itself, but a philosophy. Buddha was a teacher; he can't help you; it's simply a way of life. Hindus, on the other hand, have as many as 30,000 gods and goddesses they worship: Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva. According to our guide (a Buddhist himself), Buddhism leads to less crime. Yet he constantly warns us about fraud and rip-offs. Well. And when he refers to Islam, he refers to it as a religion "made up of rules." There are seventeen "traditional" Buddhist countries. I could list them perfectly: Indonesia, Sri Lanka, India, Bhutan, Afghanistan, Pakistan, Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia, Japan, China, Malaysia, Korea, Nepal, and Bangladesh.

Along the coastline, I see many picturesque boats, and everywhere, similar-looking stray dogs roam. About four million wild dogs, which actually only sleep during the day, but unfortunately, bark nonstop at night.

The beautiful hotel is a vast estate with individual villas scattered throughout the park, each with spacious rooms and air conditioning, thank goodness. It's nestled among well-maintained gardens with two freshwater lagoons and some mangroves, a large restaurant, and a huge swimming pool. Although it's by the sea, the guide forbids us to go to the beach, especially not at night, because, he says, "a rough fishing community lives everywhere." " Hari! " Which means okay.

In terms of warnings, we still learn the classics: only bottled water or juices such as king coconut juice, and then only in the hotel or selected restaurants.

When visiting the temple: shoes off, shoulders covered, and pants at least below the knee. I have my old, lightweight sarong, so I'm safe. Although sarongs here contain a good three meters of fabric, held together by a bobble stitch.

The tipping problem—necessary for bellboys, porters, occasional toilet visits along the way, waiters, etc.—is solved by contributing €10 per person for the entire week of the trip. Our guide takes care of everything, although we sometimes have doubts about it. We can also rely on him for small bills, which are constantly needed, because exchange offices only provide large bills. Returning them then becomes problematic. As for drinks, the local Lion Beer (€3.75 for 625 ml) turns out to be quite good, as does papaya, watermelon, and pineapple juice, of course. Unfortunately, mangoes are no longer in season.

Although the Arak alcohol (tastes like a cheap brandy with a hint of grappa) is based on palm wine,

Try it in a cocktail. Pure palm wine itself isn't, as that's extracted from the coconut blossom, which can be picked year-round. But plenty of insects crawl into it, of course, and cleanliness rules are incredibly important. The many coconut plantations are remarkable: one tree has felled supports, and on top of that, a monkey bridge is built with ropes, connecting all the trees. Owning a large coconut plantation guarantees a steady living. There are also cashew nut plantations. Sri Lanka is the fourth-largest producer of cashew nuts in the world after Vietnam, India, and Nigeria.

At the hotel, I swim alone in the enormous pool in fairly warm water, and then have lunch with a spicy Brindol Moju (spicy eggplant pickles) and a creamy Dahl with beetroot chutney and naat , a type of naan bread. The buffet dinner includes various, sometimes spicy curries and other dishes. This will continue throughout the trip. A pleasant connection develops with several fellow travelers. I especially admire the spirited character Luk Darras, an honorary ambassador (many exotic destinations!), 84 years old, and his wife, Barbara from Sweden, with whom it's always pleasant to chat about culture and international affairs.

Day 3

We leave for BANDULLA, a farming community. It is raining lightly because it is

The monsoon season. Typically, it sometimes rains while the sun shines brightly. The long drive leads past plains with burnt-out rice paddies after the harvest, and tree houses used at night to keep wild animals away from cultivated crops.

A few oddities. There are almost no new cars on the road. This was due to a lack of foreign funding after the coronavirus pandemic. In Buddhist schools, everyone wears white uniforms, even in the temple, to emphasize that everyone is equal. And white because it absorbs the sun the least. That sun, our daily dose of vitamin D. In rural areas, schools are mixed; in the cities, they are not. Buses are limited to a maximum speed of 60 km/h. Toilets don't have paper, but rather a water hose, and are usually quite unappealing, except in a tourist hotel or restaurant. Hospital and healthcare in this country are, surprisingly, free.

Today we're going to the Golden Rock Temple, a monastery (third century) with its world-famous five caves (UNESCO). Treasure chambers full of wondrous artwork and, above all, 150 Buddhas of all sizes. Our guide constantly minimizes the effort, even though the number of stairs to climb is at least five times the amount anticipated. In short, it's a huff and puff. But the reward is there. The caves beneath a huge, impressive rock are indeed uniquely decorated, with rows of Buddha statues flanked by beautiful, colorful murals (eighteenth century).

Afterwards, we'll visit a giant golden Buddha, flanked by images of monks queuing. And everywhere, monkeys are teeming, clearly unafraid of humans.

From here, we head to our hotel in SIRAYA, a charming hamlet in the heart of the jungle, where we're explicitly urged to keep our room doors locked, because before you know it, the macaque monkeys will mercilessly make a mess of your room, and woe betide you if you leave even well-hidden cookies, chocolate, or any other food behind. Our guide also warns us about wild elephants crossing the road. Although you can take tourist tours on the back of one of these tame proboscis monkeys. We'll be staying here for two nights.

Day 4

Today a highlight of the trip: climbing the mighty, unique LION ROCK.

I'd already tasted the local Lion beer, which bears the inscription, " It's not the mountain that we conquer, but ourselves. Lion is the perfect companion for wherever your adventures take you. Because every journey has its reward ." With this in mind, I prepared myself for a climb of 1,200 uneven, high, rocky, and dangerous steps. That's about 3.5 times up the Bruges Hall Tower. Ouch.

The LION ROCK (UNESCO), a kind of eighth wonder of the world, is located in Sigiraya in the heart of the country. It was the residence of King Kasayapa, a parricide (fifth century). Via the water gardens and various ruins in the surrounding area, we ascend ever higher and closer. Halfway up, you can rest for a magnificent view via two gigantic lion paws and then descend again. However, those who persevere will be rewarded with stunning murals of the enchanting "cloud maidens" in the caves beneath the garden palace. And at the summit, you'll find the remains of the citadel with some remaining gardens. Unfortunately, my current condition didn't allow this, but they're working on it (hum).

In any case, it's a challenging undertaking, full of precarious scrambling, but it's consistently rewarding with unexpected patterns and views from this limestone rock , such as Cobra Rock, under which a flutist makes a cobra dance from its basket. Lion Rock is rightly the highlight and practically the symbol of Sri Lanka. And just like yesterday, there are monkeys and the inevitable dogs everywhere, as well as wasp nests and termite mounds.

Then it goes to POLLORANUWA, once the capital of the island (11-13th century).

We admire the many tanks (enormous water reservoirs) built by man, guaranteeing fresh water and irrigation. The numerous ruins of this ancient city, with its inner and outer walls, are full of remains of palaces, gardens, monasteries and temples, the royal pool, a lotus pond, and so on. Each one more impressive than the last. Finally, we visit the Gai Viharya , a Buddhist temple carved into the rock, featuring yet another seated, standing, and reclining Buddha. Also worth mentioning is the Sea of Paramraa , the largest water reservoir ever created by man. An unnecessary visit to a wood carving follows , clearly just a megastore. Anyone need a shoulder-high wooden elephant?

Day 5

Today we drive to Kandy, in the heart of the island, once the capital of the last kingdom. Along the way, in Matale, we visit an educational spice garden . A fluent English-speaking guide provides fascinating and insightful explanations of the various well-known and lesser-known herbs and their medicinal properties. We see clusters of red, green, white, and black pepper, nutmeg, sandalwood, aloe vera, and more.

A man climbs a coconut tree and then climbs back and forth via a monkey bridge. A woman fries a kind of wafer-shaped chip in oil using rice powder, turmeric, and coconut milk. Delicious. And finally, we see how the cinnamon tree branches are grated into powder, and the branches are turned into the familiar intertwined cinnamon sticks. Finally, everyone receives herbal tea and a free ten-minute neck and back massage by a small army of masseurs, along with a sheet with numbers next to various products based on herbal blends, each supposed to alleviate various aches and pains. But oh, disappointment. The products are marketed commercially, but turn out to be incredibly expensive. In short, this is no ordinary herb garden but a professional, infotainment-driven sales tourist trap . But I did learn a lot, though. " Tutti! " That means thank you.

Next up is opening a coconut with a machete and tasting it. In my opinion, the coconut is perhaps the most versatile plant/tree in the world. The bark is used to make rope, the husk to make compost and water-retaining chips for the garden. Also used are charcoal briquettes, the trunk as cooking wood, the oil, the powder, the juice as a drink, the white flesh as a fruit or for making coconut milk, and finally, the palm leaves as roofing material.

A word about exotic fruits. There are 33 varieties of mango. In season, 10 to 15 mangoes cost just one euro. Jackfruit is a perfect meat substitute, and the dreaded durian, banned everywhere because of its horrific stench, turns out to be related to the mango.

Although tobacco is grown there, with Kamal as its center, only three percent smokers. On the other hand, chewing betel nut helps somewhat with fatigue and hunger, but can have terribly unhealthy side effects. Not least, half-ruined, ugly, red teeth. I remember Madang (Papua New Guinea). The addicts lay stunned under a betel tree, and everywhere you saw hideous red stains on the ground from spitting. I once tried chewing a betel nut. Never again. The bitterness was unbearable. And yet, I like bitter, but with a foamy head.

On our way back, we see people lining up at the polling stations here and there. The new presidential election is very much alive among the population, who hope that young Anura Dissanayake will achieve a total victory so that the four or five families that have been dividing the corrupt power among themselves for over forty years will be punished. For example: coronavirus vaccines, bought in China for two euros, were sold for six euros. Young people, in particular, are supporting the challenger candidate. Although I read that the major foreign media are labeling him a Marxist. On election day, there were 34 presidential candidates. There were 250 MPs, 50 of whom were ministers, almost all over the age of sixty. Compare this to the infinitely larger India: 28 ministers.

Today, alcohol is banned everywhere. Even tourists can't get hold of anything like beer, much to the dismay of some Flemish people and this Pipo.

We check into the stately colonial Queen's Hotel. It used to be a British governor's house , where many famous people stayed, including Helmut Kohl and, of course, Queen Elizabeth II. The rooms, hallways, and all the spaces still exude the grandeur of the old world . Especially the antique elevator with its double steel cage sliding doors. We get a room near the Victoria Suite (see photo: central, second floor). A delightful antique hotel, indeed, although the level of comfort leaves something to be desired. Although I manage to snag a beer through room service. How wonderfully incorrigible I am.

We visit the renowned Temple of the Tooth (UNESCO), the country's most important shrine, because according to legend, it houses the Buddha's tooth. I visited it back in 1986 during a trip from Colombo (world cruise). I wasn't allowed to film there back then, but now I am. Only bare feet and a sarong or covered legs are required. The place is full of colorful Buddhist and Hindu treasures, statues, shrines, altars, and symbols. It's bustling with activity, not only tourists but also locals praying and offering flowers en masse, a visually stunning experience that feels mystical and touching.

After this fascinating and photographically inspiring visit, we'll pass through a colorful bazaar with stalls brimming with handicrafts, artwork, and tourist trinkets before arriving at a large theater. A show will be performed with dancers/acrobats/jugglers, dancers in various costumes, and quirky characters performing traditional Kandy dances accompanied by drums and, occasionally, a flute. A fire show will follow.

With fire-eaters and fire-breathers walking across glowing coals or letting the flames brush their arms, we conclude the tour with a final drive around the charming central lake and parks.

Day 6

Curfew in Sri Lanka! Everyone must stay home. Total lockdown. Because the young innovator leads the polls for the presidency with 53%. Exciting. It turns out some of the former rulers have already fled the country.

Because the president also becomes the chief justice. Their money is already abroad. The prime minister and president also appear to have resigned... In short, a measure to prevent uncontrolled, premature celebrations or counter-movements. Even our bus has to acquire a special pass. If approached by the police, we are advised to speak only Dutch and, when asked "Where?", to stammer "Airport." A nervous atmosphere prevails. Kandy, Sri Lanka's second-largest city, seems deserted. Only police. Everything is closed. Everyone is watching TV.

We leave the Queen's Hotel, which is located right next to the Temple of the Tooth and across from the central lake. Because the staff of a gemstone and silk clothing store live in their complex, we can briefly visit these businesses. We drive into the high mountains with their countless tea plantations. Unfortunately, we don't see the typical tea pickers in their saris at work.

A tea picker earns only 15,000 rupees a month (€45), a waiter roughly 20,000 a month (€58). Pensions are only available to civil servants, certainly not to small business owners like a tuk-tuk driver who has been doing this work their whole life. What strikes me is that the people here seem rather thin or, on the other hand, rather plump.

Curious how the day will unfold, as we have a panoramic mountain train ride to catch, one of the most beautiful in the world. Traffic certainly won't be an obstacle.

We finally get to visit a tea production facility: not Rothschildt, but Bluefield (established 1840). The equipment looks ancient, but it's still functional. We learn about the different types of Ceylon tea: low-growing green, high-growing black, and the historical relationship with the United Kingdom and its breakfast tea . Sri Lanka turns out to be only the fourth-largest producer, after China, India, and Senegal. For one kilogram of tea, you need twenty kilograms of leaves. That's the maximum a tea picker can harvest per day. Finally, we get to sample some tea and... buy some.

Problem! All the restaurants are closed, including the one we had planned, because the staff obviously can't get to work. However, there appears to be a mass restaurant available, where all the tourists from the surrounding area can still go. Although, it still doesn't serve alcohol.

We enjoy the stunning views of green valleys, forests, tea plantations, waterfalls, lakes, mountain peaks, eucalyptus, acacia, and the peculiar Turkish red tulip trees. But then the news arrives: no train ride. Force majeure. But we learn that a group of Dutch people were able to make it. Frustration and discontent slowly grow within the group.

About their economy and local quality of life.

The country has only four highways,

Like many other investments, it's invariably funded by China. According to guide Bandu, everyone in the country has their own home (or what passes for one). There's no caste system, and there appears to be no famine. With what Sri Lanka (population 20 million) produces in food and basic necessities, they are self-sufficient, according to our guide. Quite different from nearby India, with its caste-based society and 50% hunger and child labor. But corruption is still present. A police officer who fines you for an offense offers a 50% discount for immediate cash payment... This island does have some rich people, some middle class, and the poor are mostly farmers. The Sinhalese (73.8%) are mostly traders, the Hindus more plantation workers.

The bus winds its way to Nuwara Eliya, a hilltop town (2,000m) still full of its remaining colonial British flair and architecture, including the Arahaya Green City Hotel , which offers golf, pony rides, and trekking. It's situated on Lake Gregory, where seaplanes sometimes bring people in for the many activities. The area is teeming with boats, hotels, bungalows, and apartments. We continue our journey through the beautiful highlands, taking our bus instead of the train. We witness the effects of a landslide and are stopped once and forced to take a detour because a vote recount is taking place at a school. Then we reach Bandarawela, where we spend the night.

Day 7

Today we travel via the picturesque mountain village of ELLA, a tourist resort teeming with backpackers, and the highlands, full of spectacular canyons, waterfalls, and lush jungle, to the famous UDAWALAWE National Park. We witness the feeding of about sixty orphaned elephants, including some rather cute little ones being bottle-fed. But usually, each one in turn, is fed through a long funnel into which milk is poured. Some try a second turn, but the guards take drastic action. Everything revolves around preparing them for future independence in the wild. And sadly, if males aren't accepted by a herd, they remain wandering loners...

Then the highlight. In open, four-wheel-drive vehicles, we explore the fascinating park like a safari. Climbing into the jeeps is a feat in itself, but the bumpy ride on a super-bumpy track is a truly shocking experience. We're very lucky and see many elephants, some of which come touchingly close to us. Cute birds, chameleons, crocodiles basking in the sun, cranes, peacocks, pelicans, water buffalo, and monkeys, of course. Further out in the savannah, there are waterholes where elephants bathe, and withered trees in the water give the whole thing an apocalyptic, dramatic look.

After such a bath, an elephant immediately wallows in the mud to protect itself from the sun. That's why they sometimes appear black instead of gray. This Indian species rarely has ivory tusks (only 5%). During the day, they sometimes sleep standing, and at night they search for water. But once tame, they are grateful, hardworking animals.

On the way back, we see a pregnant female (a pregnancy lasts 22 months). And then suddenly, two elephants, shielding a three-week-old baby elephant, block the road. They become aggressive and start throwing sand at us with their trunks. Everyone has to remain calm. It all ends well. We end up in Embilipitiya. After seeing so many pachyderms, I rinse off the sand under the steam of the shower, and notice an elephant in the mirror… with a small trunk. Or is it a Buddha? That's what happens…

Day 8

The atmosphere is somewhat tense because we saw the panoramic, unique train ride through the tea mountains canceled due to supposed impossibility, even though we had already paid for and booked in advance. As compensation, Aitken Spence, the local DMC, offers us a train ride along the coast, what they call the " train experience ," and a free lunch at Galle Fort. However, it's only at 3:30 PM. We find the coastal train to be of no added value and the timing inconvenient. We have to sign a document agreeing not to participate. Later, I learn that a train ride costs at most €1, and the meal is the weakest offering of the entire trip. I calculate that the train ride cost us at least €65 with our reservation. Draw your own conclusions.

Our guide Bandula slowly loses our last bit of sympathy. He constantly points out to us

Not to engage with street vendors and "swindlers," but clearly guarding its own territory. Like that woodcarving shop. There were beautiful wooden elephants, rocking chairs, and hundreds of handicrafts reminiscent of local scenes, but most of them can't fit in your luggage, and I always consider shipping a risk. The same goes for the other shopping opportunities: the herb garden, which despite the incomprehensibly high prices was somewhat successful, the tea factory, the jewelry store, and the clothes shop (real silk!). But I was once a guide and tour leader myself. Get to know me…

On our way to Galle. We leave the National Park area and slowly reach the south coast. Charters full of Russian and Belarusian tourists sometimes land here. First, we stop in the Ramboda region at a 170-meter-high waterfall full of beautiful mineral stones: pink, white, and blue, each said to have special powers. They are offered for sale for a few euro cents. Once we descend and are back in the wet zone , we pass sugarcane plantations and numerous water buffalo, which provide this region with exceptionally delicious yogurt. We also see wood apples (Dutch: elephant nut), which can be used to make juice and jam.

We visit an enchanting market full of authentic atmosphere, color, and countless, beautifully stacked fruits and vegetables, including tobacco, cassava, 22 types of chili peppers, and vegetables we're familiar with, albeit very different in shape. Then we continue along beautiful coastlines lined with typical fishing boats to the famous stilt fishermen. They sit on small crossbars mounted on long poles in the sea. Very photogenic. One offers to sit on them for a photo for 500 rupees. As fun and unique as it is, could this be a tourist trap ? They certainly catch unsightly fish instead of the intended sardines and mackerel.

A little further on, we visit a beach with an islet containing a sort of temple you can wade to, next to a surfing beach where mainly Dutch girls try to stand upright on rolling waves, and a bit further on fishermen in groups drag long nets onto the beach.

In Galle (the name comes from goal, meaning rock), we transfer to a small shuttle bus that takes us inside the majestic fort (a UNESCO site) for lunch. Afterwards, we have a tour of the mighty granite and coral city walls, once occupied by the Portuguese, which are literally being washed away by a heavy downpour. We also briefly visit the Dutch Church.

Not really worth it, and then we travel past rubber plantations and rebuilt houses after the 2005 tsunami, to our hotel for a five-day rest break. We covered 1,300 kilometers.

At the hotel, we were treated to lotus flowers, a warm, professional welcome (apart from an unintelligible, unnecessary information speech) and a central room with a balcony and a perfect sea and pool view.

Day 9 – 14

The Royal Palms Beach Hotel **** in Kalutara is beautiful and has a large swimming pool right on a palm grove by the sea. The surf is incredibly rough this time of year (monsoon season). Barely a foot of sand remains, and the rough waves crash against the protective boulders. Swimming in the sea is therefore out of the question, partly due to a dangerous undertow.

The rooms are spacious, and the service is far superior to what you'll find inland. You can at least strike up a conversation with any staff member. Previously, you'd struggle to get milk served, only to be given sugar. The lobby and public areas feature stunning Indian-inspired ornaments in the form of antique oriental doors, chests, and various decorations—balanced in beauty, classy, and far from kitsch—and elephants in various shapes.

The buffets are well-presented, plentiful, and tastefully prepared, with a wide variety of oriental and local curry dishes, along with some international, on-the-spot grilled or prepared stalls, a cold section, and a dessert section. Everything is presented quite creatively. In the afternoon, we have lunch in the à la carte Cabana . We especially enjoy the Singapore Style Chili Crab (though a bit messy) and the Lagoon Crab Drumsteak Leaves Curry . And they have my beloved umami Thai Tom Ka Khai soup. Oh, and a quick, simple cooking tip discovery: deep-fry sliced okra and serve it with orange mayonnaise.

My sweat is dripping onto my keyboard as I write this, and as we leave the air-conditioned room, our glasses immediately fog up and the heat hits us like lead.

I'm trying an Ayurveda Abhyanga massage (1 hour = €26). Nothing special for me; I prefer a deeper, more thorough Thai or shiatsu massage. The week is spent enjoying, resting, and swimming. I'm not participating in anything, although you can take yoga, water aerobics, and cooking classes.

We take a tuk-tuk ride (2,000 rupees for 1.5 hours) around the town, past the bridge and river, the Bodhiya temple, and the central clock tower , exploring the market and street atmosphere. A visit to the colorful Kovil Hindu temple offers us a small ritual, where a naked priest hands over a burning coconut. Nella immediately wants to have her picture taken with him.

On the evening of World Tourism Day, we experience Sri Lankan entertainment outside the restaurant with classical drummers, dancers, traditional costumes, fire-eaters and acrobats, and a nice orchestra inside (playing a 'Sri Lankan version' of 'Marina').

The evening excursion to the Kalutara Binara Maha Perohara procession offers stunning scenes and images of carpeted elephants adorned with lights and all sorts of other things. There are also twenty dance troupes, women in horse costumes or as giant peacocks with plumed tails stretching out to the sky, fire-breathers, and whippers, all guaranteed to deliver the loudest "clack" of your life. The cost is a donation of 5,000 rupees (€14), including the bus fare, to be used for Buddhist cultural activities. There was also a river excursion through mangroves to a beach with seven (originally eleven) species of turtles, moonstones , and a visit to the Tsunami Museum.

Day 14

Up at four, breakfast bag, and via Colombo Airport and Dubai, we arrived home around 9 p.m. We'd been on the road for a good twenty hours.

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Our guide's remarks sometimes include strange remarks. Here are a few examples.

· There really doesn't sound to be any difference between foot and food . We eat foot , anyone?

· 'A restaurant' becomes a restOORen

He calls a tuk-tuk a mosquito taxi . That's quite nice.

· How long will it take to a toilet stop? 15 minutes but you can still in the hotel . Que?

· They eat curry with rice, and rice with curry also . Hospitals are free, so you don't have to pay .

· You can buy kloot, means clothes .

After the second day, he manages to say: Here you also see palm trees. Sri Lanka is very green! Hey, " hari " (okay)!

· Which means : fa'e vileetjis. Correct: five villages.

· You can see also … and then he says what we see and can also name ourselves: shops, trees, etc. We feel like a kindergarten class.

And Bandu is cheating with his stated walking distances. His defense: you're here to look . He's right, of course, but everyone has their own level of interest and tolerance for Buddha, based on the effort required and their own fitness level. So, it's better to give the less physically fit travelers the correct truth upfront, dear Bandu! And we'll pass on that " train travel scam," you know.

©WimVanBesien2024. Thanks to Johan De Roos and Fabienne for some pictures.