'The Emirates': Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Ajman (UAE) (2-9/11/17)

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“The Sky is the Limit?”

(a travelogue full of astonishing wonder, amazement, bewilderment

and questions, many questions…)

Dubai? Abu Dhabi? No, that's not on my bucket list. But at that price? Classy hotels, spectacular sights, excursions, flights and transfers included, never been to this corner of the world before, a week? We'll do it!

Thursday

Of course, a cheap travel deal doesn't have ideal flight times. That's why we set off for Brussels Airport (Zaventem) in the morning and didn't arrive at our hotel until 3:00 a.m. (GMT+3) via Istanbul on Turkish Airlines (pretty good though). We turned out to be a group of 16. Our Dutch-speaking guide was named Güven, a Turk born in Genk. And he immediately made a difference by not only sharing information and facts, but especially providing context to understand life and business in the Emirates.

Because this is a society with an economy and a vision far removed from our own. Marhaba! (Welcome)! We're staying at the Grand Millennium Al Wahda*****luxury (34 floors with a rooftop pool, 844 rooms).

Friday

Abu Dhabi literally means "Father of the Gazelle." It's the largest Emirate, and almost all of the UAE's oil comes from offshore oil rigs. At our guide's 11:00 a.m. briefing, we learn that several highlights aren't included in the excursions, such as the Dubai Dhow Dinner Cruise, climbing the world's tallest tower, and a cocktail-filled visit to the world's most expensive hotel. But everyone books these tours because being here and not experiencing them doesn't seem like an option.

In the afternoon, we depart for Yas Island. We drive through sandy plains, past construction sites, bridges, barren land, and even past vast mangroves amidst all that sand. Yas is home to the ultramodern Yas Marina Formula 1 circuit, where in a few weeks the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix will be held on a 5.5-kilometer track. There's a magnificent, state-of-the-art hotel, the Yas Viceroy, with a floating roof full of LEDs and twelve restaurants built over the racetrack, so you can watch the race from your hotel suite.

It's 33°C, but pleasant, so a boat trip from the Yacht Marina is welcome. Then we drive to the Ferrari World Theme Park with its 200,000 m² red roof. It features the fastest roller coaster in the world (from 0 to 217 km/h in 2.5 seconds, any enthusiasts?), the G-Force ride, and of course, all sorts of Ferrari models. The complex is housed in a large shopping mall with fun, uniquely decorated cars everywhere.

Malls are the vibrant meeting places here, cool, full of food, drinks, and restaurants, and of course, shops. Remarkably, the top and luxury brands are persistently present everywhere, with sometimes dizzying products (and prices)… And they are full of attractions. In the Mall of the Emirates, for example, you can ice skate and even ski.

Returning, we see in the distance, on the reclaimed Saadiyat Island, the site where Macron will open the Louvre in five days. The structure, with a kind of floating dome, cost 108 million euros. US$525 million was paid for the use of the name "Louvre" alone, and $747 million for art loans and special exhibitions. Frank Gehry is also working on a new Guggenheim. So, you could say that Abu Dhabi focuses more on culture and sports, while Dubai focuses more on (spectacular) architecture.

We're going to the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, one of the most enchanting and largest mosques in the world. Snow-white and filled with gleaming and glorious domes and minarets, inside a 5,600-square-meter carpet hand-knotted by 1,200 women, 10-by-15-meter chandeliers adorned with over a million crystals, making them the largest Swarovski chandelier in the world, magnificent wall and pillar decorations, and ornately inlaid floors.

It's hilarious when the women have to wear a covering djellaba or hooded kaftan. Men also have to wear trousers below the knee, and—hard for us—holding hands or showing affection is forbidden, but here and there I see some trespassers. Everyone has to go through security gates with metal and baggage detectors, just like at an airport. Shoes have to be removed, too. But the visit leaves an overwhelming, fairytale impression of pure beauty, and the place is packed with visitors from all over the world.

Islam is the state religion, but it's still (especially in Dubai) quite tolerant, with, for example, seven women in their government of 29.

Back at the hotel, we have an hour to freshen up and then drive along the Corniche to the Emirates Palace Hotel, where heads of state and the super-rich stay. One of the best hotels in the world, pure 1,000 and 1 nights of gold and tinsel, with a magnificent entrance and grand driveway lined with fountains and palm trees. Every bit of greenery has been brought here.

It's located directly opposite the Etihad Towers, with a restaurant on the 63rd floor and a 360° view. Nothing special... In the Tara Tower, their restaurant even revolves at 126 meters. In the distance, we see the residence of the Supreme Emir, and then a dinner cruise awaits us on a Shuya yacht in the Persian Gulf, with the Abu Dhabi skyline as the main attraction.

The buffet includes water and soft drinks, as alcohol is strictly prohibited in the Emirates, though there are some alternatives. Some hotel bars and a unique pub offer wine, although it's exorbitantly expensive.

Back at the hotel, we're craving a beer. So, six of us literally go underground because, oh my goodness, right next to the hotel, deep down, there's a real, somewhat English pub with all sorts of screens showing football, baseball, and eight beers on tap, including Stella and Hoegaarden. Pricey, but a welcome relief after a hot, busy day. And we haven't seen so much yet, remains The Falcon Hospital (the falcon is the symbolic animal here), the oasis city of Al Ain, the Heritage Village, camel races...

SATURDAY

We're off early again to multicultural Dubai, with its 680 hotels, about a two-hour drive away. We'll pass the site where the 2020 World Expo will take place. Here too, staggering infrastructure is being built, and the records and numbers are once again overwhelming us. 30 million visitors are expected. The theme is "Future." Just look at that...

Our water and bathroom break takes place at a unique stop with all sorts of colourful and decorated food trucks and vintage cars everywhere. It's a real 50s vibe, Route 66, and other Americana. You can get the most delicious, fresh fruit juice combinations, smoothies, and all sorts of international cuisine snacks. A truly different atmosphere.

We drive on and see Dubai emerge from the barren desert. The highway gets wider and wider (sometimes up to eight lanes)! The traffic is getting denser ( the traffic jams here last two to three hours during rush hour, every day). Well, with gas prices like these… Although there's also a metro (half a million people per day).

Suddenly we're among skyscrapers. We see, among other things, a building shaped like Big Ben, later a design frame like a modern triumphal arch, a circular building designed according to the principles of the golden ratio, the slanted Capital Gate, and the 'twisted' Infinity Tower. Each one more beautiful than the last. The Belgian construction company Besix did/does roaring business here.

Amidst those countless skyscrapers, some with the craziest designs, we arrive at the enormous Dubai Mall (with 1,621 stores, costing $20 trillion, yuck) in the Business Bay district. There too, stands the Burj Khalifa, the world's tallest tower, and full of architectural marvels.

Dubai is the realm of creative engineers and property developers, and every crazy idea, after verification, is fully supported by the state. A fellow traveler's opinion: "This gives us an idea of what's happening in this part of the world. The boat of new developments and technological evolution has clearly set sail here, partly due to the short decision-making process - a boat we risk missing in Europe, and certainly in Belgium, due to our regulations and indecisiveness."

This mall is a mega-infrastructure spanning several floors, packed with attractions like a giant aquarium, a waterfall with statues of divers - quite beautiful - and so on. Impressions are endless. And bling everywhere. The shops remind me of Dubai = Do buy! We're going to pick up some dirhams to eat later. There are a dozen ATMs lined up side by side, like a breathing lifeline .

All sorts of people mingle here, the most striking being the Emirati themselves. Men in pristine white tunics and headscarves with black bands and meticulously trimmed beards, the women, perfectly coquettishly made up and wearing high heels, are gracefully adorned with the finest jewelry and expensive handbags over their hijabs. The sheer luxury on offer here defies imagination.

And then we step outside. On the terraces surrounding a large pond, we stand in front of the Burj Khalifa, 828 meters high. It's neck-aching. We mingle with the crowd and enjoy a small snack: Anatolia Soujouk and Barba Ganoush. There's no real local cuisine here, but there's hummus of all kinds, dates, and figs, and it leans towards Turkish cuisine with lots of meat. Vegetarians are well catered for, but clearly there's still a long way to go. I, who always wants to try things I'm not familiar with, drink a fermented spicy black carrot juice, but I'd seriously will regret that after a few hours. While we eat, a show of dancing fountains is performed (there are twelve different ones), but we'll enjoy it even more tomorrow evening at dusk, with a light show added to the experience.

We drive to the old town of Bastakiya and visit the Heritage House. It's a beautifully designed interactive museum with scenic displays and explanations about Bedouin life, the desert, the tented accommodations, the pearl traders, the camel, and the flora and fauna. Unfortunately, I suddenly suffer a terrible bout of diarrhea. Just in time, but a (sorry) spectacular experience. I feel uncomfortable for two hours and have to go a few more times, but then it's over. "Incident de parcours" now outsourced.

Then we stroll through the Souks. After that oppressive artificial world, it's a relief to experience this neighborhood, with its narrow streets full of stalls and small shops, and a slice of authenticity and "folklore" reminiscent of the medinas and bazaars of North Africa and the Middle East. In short, a bit of a detox and a counterbalance to the majesty of capitalism.

We board a primitive abra boat (costing 1 Dirham) and sail along the Creek canals (where Dubai's roots lie, once a modest fishing village) between all sorts of wooden and old abras to the farther shore. A wonderful moment that reminds me somewhat of the atmosphere of the Mekong River.

From there, we headed to the Time Grand Plaza hotel, unloaded our luggage, took a quick dip in the rooftop pool, and got ready for another excursion. A beer is quite an expedition, but I had a quickie and found a hotel with another large, dark sports bar, dozens of screens, snooker tables, and plenty of beers on tap. The owner told me that Hoegaarden is the most popular beer here.

An evening excursion to Dubai Marina to dine on a dhow (a traditional Arabian boat) from Pier 7, admiring the panoramic skyline and literally sailing between the fabulous skyscrapers out to sea, passing the famous, man-made Palm Island. The reception is red-carpet-lined, the tables beautifully set, and yes, it promises to be an unforgettable experience. Marijke, Veronique, Piet, and Annick (from Maldegem) are our guests again. Marijke: "I feel like I'm walking around in a movie." And indeed, it's delightfully impressive and enchanting. The city lights, the warm evening, those unique, tall, and ever-special, beautiful towers... what an evening!

SUNDAY

Güven is relentless. We head back to the city center early. Well, the intersection of highways with all its road interchanges , surrounded by high-rises, isn't exactly a "city center."

Our first stop is the Burj Al Arab, practically the symbol of Dubai, completed just before the year 2000. We pass the airport, and a second one is already under construction, both close to the city center (hello, Brussels Zaventem).

Everything here began with petroleum, hence the wealth. 88% of the population (out of 2.5 million inhabitants) are foreigners, primarily Indians, Pakistanis, and Filipinos, who work as (relatively) cheap labor (expats) in conditions of their own choosing. Among them are primarily construction workers. Or specialized jobs like window cleaning, usually, almost predictably… Nepalese. Anyway.

It goes without saying that construction is the number one industry here. Where 40 years ago there was only desert, these construction results are incalculable. But oil is finite, which is why the Emiratis are fully committed to investments, in which they are already decades ahead of us. Crime is also nonexistent or negligible, and it's clean. See also Singapore. But it's simple. Anyone who criticizes, protests, or opposes anything is deported and never returns. Emiratis themselves are "born with a pension," don't have to do anything anymore, and are privileged in everything. Sheikh Moh Bin Rashid in 1995: “I am a leader and I have visions, I watch, I read faces, I take visions and move full throttle.” Even to counter the enormous waste of energy, advanced ecological solutions like Sir Norman Foster's Masdar are gradually emerging. But it doesn't stop there. Projects in the pipeline: another “Palm Island” (actually an archipelago) shaped like the world map “The World” and two more Palm islands.

The Durj Al Arab, with its iconic sailing ship design, is a top-notch 5+2=7-star hotel, boasting the Sky View Bar and helipad, and the most expensive hotel in the world. Some suites cost €30,000 per night! They also claim that any item in the world can be flown in and delivered within twelve hours. So, all your whims are catered to here.

We're taking pictures of Jumeirah Beach (about 3km away). It's really hot now. 34 degrees Celsius, and they say it can reach 60 degrees Celsius here in the summer. Then going outside is unbearable, and I'm thinking about the energy bill just from all the air conditioning here.

We pass another super hotel, the Jumeirah Al Qasr. Outside, statues of golden, frolicking horses stand. Then the famous Dubai Palm Island looms, giving a whole new dimension to the term "palm island." Completely reclaimed, it's a feat that has paid off handsomely for our Belgian dredging companies DEME, Decloedt and Jan De Nul . It's even bigger than I thought, but a truly good overview is difficult to find. We even enter a tunnel at the beginning, emerging at the very end (5 km out to sea) near the magnificent, dominating Atlantis Hotel. Finally, we visit this impressive complex as well. One of the attractions here is once again the enormous aquarium "Lost Chambers," full of colorful tropical fish of all kinds and a scenic setting. You can even snorkel or dive in it.

Back at the hotel, it's finally time for some sunbathing and swimming. Beer or alcohol are out of the question again, which becomes a standing joke. Marijke: "I probably will start acting strange."

The atmosphere in our group of Flemish people is exceptionally pleasant, and everyone chats with everyone. Tonight, everyone will be dressing up in their finest attire, as we'll be finishing up at the Sky Lounge of the Burj Al Arab for our Dubai by Night. We'll be served two cocktails there (one on the house and one of your choice) but there's a strict dress code. What do you expect from the most expensive hotel in the world (7 stars)?

Now back to the Dubai Mall, where we snag a seat at the Jones Café, with the best view of the dancing fountains beneath the Burj Khalifa. We order food and water and enjoy three shows (one to "Con Te Partiro," one to "Skyfall," and one to "something oriental"). The oohs and aahs are in the air. Photos and videos are being taken as the action unfolds. There are crowds of people, and the whole setting is enchanting as darkness falls, and of course, that imposing tallest tower.

Time to ascend. It requires a huge amount of organization, with extensive traffic control, ID and baggage checks, and a long queue to finally queue for one of the elevators that, in barely a minute, with audiovisual displays plastered across every wall, whisks us to the 125th floor (there are 163). Everything we see about the construction and the consequences of this building is staggering, as is the view of Dubai by night from so high up. Another WOW experience.

The Durj Khalifa: 10,000 people live there, there are 54 elevators (the fastest 65 km/h), it consumes one million tons of water (compared to a small town in our country), 100,000 tons of coolant per hour, 22 million working hours, 300,000 m³ of concrete.

Impressed, we board the bus to that other Burj, the Burj Al Arab. The interior is overwhelming; what an experience! Gold, marble, and overwhelming opulence everywhere, it sweeps us off our feet. I hear the "Gold Souk" in Dubai has 400 shops. Sipping a cocktail in the Sky Lounge, we marvel at the rich and famous. We, mere mortals, can't normally get in here, and this exclusivity was only granted by our local DMC (probably at a hefty price). And then outside, the Rolls-Royces and other Bentleys are lined up.

The amount of expensive cars you see here defies imagination. Some cars cost up to a million, and a license plate with a number in the 20s even costs many times that. Prestige, prestige, making an impression—that's what it's all about here. Money. Capital. Wealth.

After the oil boom, the focus is now on investments. Who doesn't know Dubai (the size of East and West Flanders) and the football teams they own or sponsor: Real Madrid, AC Milan, PSG, and Arsenal? And Abu Dhabi, the airline Etihad and the football teams Manchester City and New York City FC. Exhausted, we dive into bed after midnight. Tomorrow, two final days of relaxation. Pfff.

MONDAY

On the agenda: a round of product demos that we have to persevere through, but for such an excursion, it does help keep the price down. A super-professional carpet demonstration with pieces full of incredibly artistic patterns. Educational, but who wants another carpet? Then gemstones and jewelry. I give my wife some stunning earrings, but my wallet is groaning. Then beautiful leather goods (lamb, calf, sheep), mainly coats. Again, super-professional salespeople you have to fight off.

Our bus takes us through the Emirate of Sharjah, a very Muslim-centric culture evident in the countless mosques popping up everywhere. Much simpler, and practically the abode of the average person who can't afford the expensive apartments in Dubai and drives to work every day (and ends up stuck in traffic).

You shouldn't be shouting "everyone on bikes" as a solution here. I only saw two bikes the entire trip. A flaw, after all. You could call it a merit to build these dazzling cities and infrastructures from scratch in a pure, dry desert in 40 years, but this wasn't considered. Yet, they solve all the problems—think water supply, steel and concrete production, and everything, absolutely everything, has to be imported here! And just imagine what it means to have to pour incredibly deep foundations on such loose, sandy soil.

Then we arrive in the Emirate of Ajman, where a luxury resort awaits us: the Fairmont Ajman. Modern elegance, five different restaurants, and two cafés where you can also smoke enormous hookahs and create your own blend. The breakfast buffet is an endless orgy of specialties and just about everything that's eaten for breakfast around the world, with show cooking stations featuring Asian, Arabic, Japanese, and so on.

Being well-versed in the customs of the travel industry and knowing my way around after a life in international tourism, I managed to get an upgrade to a sea view room.

While everyone had already checked in, ours wasn't ready yet. An hour later, there wasn't even another alternative. Desperate, management decided to upgrade us. This resulted in a stateroom with a frontal ocean view, luxurious sofas, and a balcony with an outdoor dining table for six; a living room with a seating area for ten; another dining table for six; two toilets; a beautiful bedroom with another ocean-view balcony and a large jacuzzi, walk-in shower, and two beautiful sinks; and, of course, all the necessary amenities. Not that this matters much.

We're only here for two nights, but it's the icing on the cake, I suppose.

We have lunch by the pool bar, where you can also sit at the counter in the pool, and promptly fall into a long nap. Afterwards, we enjoy aperitifs outdoors, before devouring a Turkish meal in the Ottoman-style restaurant Kiyi, dishes which we can't even finish halfway through.

TUESDAY

The facilities, various bars, swimming pool, and sun are the perfect ingredients for a day of relaxation and enjoyment. Although most others still opt for a jeep safari. But I've done that before, albeit without surfing over the dunes on flat tires... My back feels relieved.

WEDNESDAY/THURSDAY

Our flight doesn't leave until after 1:30 AM tonight. We have to check out around noon, although the hotel offers some accommodations until the evening. Receptionist Fiona, an iconic "Chinese" doll, lets us stay in our room until 6 PM for a small fee. That's perfect. My back desperately needs to recover horizontally if I have to fly sitting upright overnight.

After two and a half hours, we reach the airport. It turns into a night of obligatory queuing, all sorts of security checks, and waiting. When we're in the air around 2:30 a.m., everyone wants to sleep. But if they can manage with food, well, they'll do. Around 6 p.m., we arrive at Istanbul Atatürk Airport and around 11 a.m. at Brussels Int'l Airport, where the shuttle bus takes us to the cheap, long-distance parking lot.

EPILOGUE

You understand that this travel destination is astonishing. And the questions? Yes, those questions. You probably have them…

And then this. My thanks go to a superb guide. Güven was a tour guide, attentive, available, friendly, and informative, but that should be normal. But an enthusiastic storyteller, an informational expert who takes you along and can explain the story behind the facts - that's an invaluable asset!

©WimVanBesien2017, this article is copyrighted and intellectually protected. More photos from this trip on Flickr