The Great Pacific Crossing. From Sydney to Honolulu (April 2024).

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With Qatar Airways (nice springbok logo) via Doha to Sydney, a long flight all the way down under.

The B787 Dreamliner has a capacity of only 250 passengers and features large, electronically dimmable windows and full-spectrum LED lighting that helps with time differences, as well as an oxygen supply that reduces travel fatigue. The Dreamliner reaches a speed of 1,000 km/h. This means less than six hours from Brussels to Qatar.

After arriving at our authentic colonial hotel The Great Southern in the heart of SYDNEY

After a delicious, hot Thai shrimp soup at a nearby Thai restaurant, we decided not to go to bed too early to "recover" from jet lag. Of course, that didn't work. I wanted to follow Club vs. Anderlecht (3-1) via a VPN connection, but I was snoring too fast, and of course, I woke up at 4:00 AM. At 7:00 AM, I went to a coffee shop across the street and then did some sightseeing. We have two nights here, but only one full day before we embark on our Trans-Pacific Cruise. So, that means quick, superficial sightseeing...

The first open-top double-decker Big Bus takes us to the suburbs and a scenic route along the coast, taking in Bondi Beach , its surfers, Rose Bay , and views of the Sydney skyline from the hills to the south. The commentary is accompanied by Aussie tunes: songs by Crowded House, the wonderful Aboriginal artist Gurrumul (recommended!), AC/DC, and of course, "Down Under" by Men at Work. Several athletes from this country are mentioned as celebrities, including tennis player Lleyton Hewitt, Cate Blanchett, Olivia Newton-John, and other Kylie Minogues.

The funniest fact I remember is that the first white men who worked here in the pioneer days, including, as is well known, many exiled criminals, were paid in... rum!

And that when the white people saw their first kangaroo, they asked the Aboriginals what the animal was called. They supposedly replied in their language: "kangaroo," which means "I don't understand you." Linguists strongly doubt that, but they decided to pass on this amusing story anyway.

The second tour is the actual city center tour. This takes us past the towering Sydney Tower Eye , which I visited in 1986, King's Cross, Woolloomooloo Bay , and of course the Sydney Bridge , which took tons of paint and where Paul Hogan (Crocodile Dundee) once did this job.

And of course, the world-famous Sydney Opera House . A beautiful walk to that phenomenal landmark, a photographer's dream setting. Unfortunately, the Opera House wasn't performing during our stay, so I'll have to put that wish aside. It also didn't work out a year ago at the Manaus Opera House. Too bad. There are tons of terraces with views of the bridge, the harbor, the ocean in the distance, and the cruise ship opposite.

Tomorrow, our ship, the MV Celebrity Solstice , arrives. It's 315 meters long, 37 meters wide, has six restaurants for 2,850 passengers and 1,200 crew, and features 16 elevators surrounding a 15-deck-high atrium with a real tree growing underneath. Not exactly our cup of tea, but I managed to get an incredible deal in the UK: a stateroom with a terrace on Sky Deck 10, concierge level, flights, and extra days before and after the all-inclusive package (I just had to book a Heathrow-Brussels flight myself). But at this price, we can't afford to miss this trip to these destinations, can we? That's why. Back in my day, in the eighties, cruise ships docked behind the Sydney Bridge. Now they dock in front of it, because those big, ugly monsters can't fit under it anymore.

Australian food proves to be eclectic: Britain meets East, meets Aboriginal ('barbi' = barbecue) and turns out to be slightly cheaper than ours. Drinks are, however, more expensive. They operate a system of ordering at the bar, paying, and having your order brought to the number you're assigned. The American way. Even in a pub! Typical dishes include all sorts of meat pies, pavlova, lamingtons, fish and chips, barramundi fish, and Vegenite (salty! Supposedly a hangover cure).

The departure from Sydney looks quite spectacular, and everyone is on the open deck. I'm taking photos like crazy.

We miss LIFOU, LOYALTY ISLAND (NEW CALEDONIA) due to stormy weather outside the port. As a result, we are prohibited from sailing on the first day. On top of that, we also miss the tiny MYSTERY ISLAND (VANUATU), normally good for a 40-minute walk around the island and relaxing on soft, white powdery sand and turquoise-blue water. Because, as the ship was closest to an SOS shipwreck involving a sailing ship at night, it had to execute the maritime code of rescue and assistance. The result: sailing back to the nearest mainland to provide medical care for the two half-survivors. This costs us a sea day and thus this port of call. I sigh to myself: do I come from the other side of the world and miss these enchanting islands…? Well, yeah. The American passenger: Did the captain know that during the night, we were sailing in the wrong direction?

FIJI , a magical name! And a symbol of beautiful palm-fringed beaches. " Bula !" is Fiji for Hello! First, LAUTOKA , the charming "Sugar City" because of its important sugarcane cultivation.

We take a delightful taxi ride past tapioca fields, the highlight being a beautiful Hindu temple, as always, in fairytale pastel colors. Shoes off, we know that, but unfortunately, I don't have a sarong to cover my bare legs. But there's no one there. Until suddenly a priest shows up, starts angrily, and tells us we have to pay $5, which isn't indicated anywhere. We remain friendly, ask interested questions, and eventually he poses for a photo with a colleague and Nella, and we don't even have to pay $5 anymore. Yet, Christianity (Methodist, Baptist, etc.) turns out to be the main religion here. But you can't miss the natives, who are of Indian origin. Although we also pass a mosque. The ride ends with an enchanting tropical sunset. Back on the pier by the ship, where various stalls are set up, I let the cheerful, black Sonja tempt me with a primitive chair massage at $12 for 50 minutes.

SUVA is the capital and largest, highly cosmopolitan city in Oceania: trendy shopping malls alongside farmers markets, parks, gardens, and museums. But besides modern buildings, there are also some colonial buildings. Today is our 34th wedding anniversary.

I'm taking an excursion to an authentic Polynesian village. A quick bathroom break is provided at an insignificant airport full of small, sometimes dilapidated airplanes. Tiny Fiji turns out to have sixteen domestic airports. Nadi's is the only international one.

In Rewa Village, our group is welcomed by warriors armed with machetes and other weapons, bare-chested and wearing straw skirts with fierce black smudges on their faces. A walk through the village, half-housed, half-hutted, with no windows anywhere, offers a glimpse into their remaining, original culture. Laundry hangs out to dry everywhere, and the "Bula!" cries are in the air.

In a sort of communal house, men and women sit on the floor, accompanied by a few meager instruments, performing indigenous chants. At the front are warriors again, holding a large bowl in which the Kava ceremonial drink, so important to them, is prepared. The Village Chief welcomes us. We're given a demonstration of a wooden baton, a kind of cleaver used in earlier times for headhunting .

Captain William Bligh of the legendary British naval ship The Bounty discovered Fiji (Melanesia) in 1789. Cannibalism was common there at the time . Meanwhile, they are among the most peaceful and kind people I've ever met. The Kava ceremony with its unique drink, the warrior dance, and so much more are a shot of joy .

Here I'm experiencing the atmosphere of an old dream: cruising along the Pitcairn Islands (see the film Mutiny on the Bounty ), Easter Island , and Robinson Crusoe Island , and from there to Valparaiso, Chile . But such an expedition cruise is unfortunately far too expensive for this young man.

But as wild as they look, all these people here are just as sweet and well-behaved. Sure, they're putting on a folkloric act, but their hearts are still there.

A vigorous warrior dance follows, followed by the (stocky) women who perform Polynesian songs and simple, softly swaying dances. And, hey, we're all allowed to join in, of course. Note that the many plump women do conform to the local ideal of beauty. The kava-drinking tradition, then. The drink is prepared with a substance from a special root, which they squeeze into what looks like a sock and then mix with water in a large bowl. Drinking is accompanied by shouts and clapping from the pourer. You have to down the small bowl in one gulp. It tastes like nothing, in my opinion. Anyway, it's said to have calming qualities. Because, as the Chief says: " Kava makes you quiet, beer makes you loud ." Afterward, there's a friendly, even exuberant, socializing. All in all, a pleasant experience.

APIA (SAMOA) On the quay we are welcomed by a huge folkloric group that

exotic music and dance are on display. The strong, scorching sun is so intense that everyone is only looking for shade. Absolutely everyone is wearing a head covering now. We take the shuttle and walk through the center, where a typical Christian church and a beautiful park face each other. We see all sorts of decorative crafts, such as wood carving and wickerwork, pottery, jewelry, you name it. Making coconut milk from coconuts, a rather labor-intensive process, particularly catches my attention. Colorful clothes are sold everywhere, such as bright T-shirts, vests, ornately printed sarongs, and exotic knick-knacks at charming stalls and booths. Whenever we mention 'Belgium,' the reaction is always: "soccer! " or... Lukaku!

For a small fee, a taxi driver takes us to a spacious, covered local market. Among the fruits and vegetables, I notice species I've never seen before. We get a ride to the Natural History and Cultural Heritage Museum. We enjoy ourselves, but we're sweating profusely.

PAGO PAGO (AMERICAN SAMOA) is actually a village on the island of Tutuila, which was once a major US naval base until 1951. It's easy to walk through. So we arranged a taxi, a lot more expensive than yesterday's, but this way we could take panoramic shots of the harbor town in this wonderful, beautiful bay, nestled in the high, green hills, sometimes clouded in by clouds.

And it must be said: our ugly, large ship and the many containers spoil the "ideal picture" here and there. The main industry here is canned tuna fishing. And we've certainly learned that. As we pass the factory, the stench of fish is almost unbearable. We feel sorry for the people who have to work here their whole lives.

A black brass band plays tunes as we drive back.

Upon departure, the concierge class is invited to the helipad at the front of the ship for a glass of champagne and zakouskis. I chat pleasantly with some Aussies, always a jovial bunch.

Riddle. Yesterday, Thursday, April 18th, we were in Apia, Samoa, and today we were in Pago Pago, American Samoa, and it's Thursday, April 18th again. How is that possible? Simple. The INTERNATIONAL DATELINE, 180° longitude , runs between the two adjacent islands. The east is always one day ahead of the west. That's why yesterday we were +12 hours ahead of GMT+1 and now suddenly -12 hours ahead of Brussels time. We're smack in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. It's been a constant 30°C here for days with humidity between 73% and 80%. And now we're sailing, past the Solomon Islands and above French Polynesia, on our way to Hawaii. Brace yourself: five full days at sea to go.

AT SEA.

The temperature never dropped below 24°C during the trip and never rose above 30°C. Ultimately, it was quite manageable, with a dip in the pool and a drink every now and then.

Activities are available throughout the day, featuring some truly amusing ideas, such as landing an egg unbroken on a circle from the seventh floor. The constructions using plastic sheeting, balloons, rubber bands, and would-be parachutes are hilarious, and the landings unpredictable. Fun and games , indeed. There was also a Country Fair around the pool, where all the ship departments offered a crazy game where you could collect points, redeemable for all sorts of Celebrity gadgets. A surprisingly fun concept. There was also Blame Bingo, a slot machine challenge, and a constant supply of games, tournaments, and quizzes led by a large entertainment team. Naturally, there were interesting lectures, including a hilarious one from the cruise director about how they navigated the coronavirus period with a reduced crew at sea.

The Galley tour was fascinating. How do you supply 2,800 people in one large dining room, one large buffet restaurant, a fast-food stand by the pool, and five specialty restaurants (for an additional fee)? Well, there are 170 chefs on board working 10-hour shifts and 40 cleaners, exclusively for the kitchens. Orders are displayed on a screen in various departments and later brought to the table service by porters. For example, there's one man who only prepares escargots bourguignonne every day . Compared to previous cruises, I'm not very impressed with the food. I ask sommelier Jona (a Filipina) for a Malbec from Argentina. She doesn't know much about it. But when she hears that Nella is Italian, she asks, " I was in Pisa and asked for ketchup on my pizza... It felt like they wanted to put me in jail. Why? "

What really bothers me is that the ship concept economizes on service, meaning that everyone seems to be constantly busy with drinks, coffee in cardboard cups and so on.

Some more random observations. The ugliness of people . This cruise ship has such a rich selection of food and restaurant options, yet the pool grill, with its limited offering of hot dogs, burgers, and fries, is the most popular, not coincidentally with the more corpulent guests. And quantity is proving increasingly important over quality.

Comfort for this overweight boy. Looking at my fellow travelers, I immediately put my situation into perspective, and the bulges, bellies, hideous tattoos, and piercings are countless. In the delightful Green Sunset Bar , near luxurious private alcoves, a glassblowing booth (you can learn here), and a golf course, I sip a "Slippery Nipple" cocktail "a little differently ." Everyone here drinks beer and soft drinks, American-style, from the bottle. Give this Belgian a glass, please, unless you want a Corona with a wedge of lime. Duvel isn't on the menu anywhere, but it is there, $17 please.

Conversations with fellow passengers usually don't go beyond " Where are you from ?" followed by a comment and a dying chat about nothing. I'd like to share a funny remark from a woman: " My husband loves red hair, which is creepy because my mother is a redhead ."

The two-story show theater offers both early and late evening shows. I meet the cruise director, and as a former colleague (I once worked for Celebrity for three months during their launch in 1993), he shows me backstage, including all the machinery, dressing rooms, and gadgets, such as a platform that can launch 16 entertainers from the ground around a prop, like a motorcycle. There are also hoists that allow acrobats to fly around, and you name it; lighting, spotlights, and projection equipment—technical possibilities I could only dream of back then. There's even a small, separate theater where they perform slightly more daring late-night comedy shows .

My umpteenth Equator Crossing : the King Neptune Ceremony . The performance here can't match the originality I once brought to the team, at least with real, beautiful mermaids…

Their spectacle, however, offers little. To illustrate, here are two photos: the first from this cruise (the acrobatic act is the highlight), the second below from my time at Vistafjord with Yours Truly as Neptune.

Afterwards, we're hit by a violent, windy, tropical deluge. God punishes us immediately. In the evening, we receive the classic certificates.

Originally, the penultimate day was planned for LAHAINA (MAUI, HAWAII ), a beautiful island where I had previously been happy a few times, but now cancelled because of the terrible forest fires of last year that turned this dream place into a black mess.

So we're spending an extra day in HONOLULU (OAHU, HAWAII ) across from the Aloha Tower . In the evening, we're treated to Hawaiian music and dance, which gets us in the mood.

Disembarkation the next morning goes very smoothly.

" Aloha !" Our boutique hotel, Equus, turns out to be an inconspicuous, tucked-away shack compared to the impressive resorts like Hilton, Hyatt, Ritz-Carlton, and so on. To get inside with our heavy suitcases, we have to climb twenty flights of stairs. There's no elevator, and no one helps. But whatever. We immediately hop on the Pink Line Bus Tour, which gives me a good overview of Honolulu and Waikiki. The double-decker bus is perfect for sightseeing and photoshoots .

On Waikiki beach, we have a small meal near the statue of Duke Kahanamoku , the "father" of modern surfing, before continuing on with the Blue Line, a trolley vehicle similar to San Francisco's tramways , complete with its loud bell. We head towards the southern coast, passing the famous volcanic crater Diamond Head, which I climbed during my 1982 world trip. The beaches, waves, surfers, and palm trees create ever-changing, memorable views. We reach a small bay with turbulent waves crashing against a rocky beach, once used as a location for scenes in Pirates of the Caribbean .

There's also a spouting blowhole where tidal surges send water spouting into the air. On the way back, we pass through affluent neighborhoods where stars like Oprah Winfrey and Sylvester Stallone have their homes. We constantly have beautiful sea views, but unfortunately, we don't spot any whales or dolphins.

Waikiki is well-maintained, with hotels ranging from upscale to chic, such as the beautiful Moana Surfrider Westin Hotel, and boasts numerous parks with perfectly short grass, lush plants, and remarkable, multi-stemmed, rooted trees.

Some plants you'd find in Flemish living rooms, but here they're ten times larger, more lush, and more colorful. The trees, in particular, as everywhere in the South Pacific, are impressive, photogenic works of art. It's pleasantly warm. Yet, the trade winds can blow strongly in certain streets. From a certain direction, the skyscrapers become a suction funnel that accelerates the wind's force, while the side streets, by contrast, are completely windless.

The next day, we head to Honolulu (Red Trolly Line), visiting the statue of Kamehameha , the founder of the former Kingdom of Hawaii (1810), Iolani Palace , Chinatown , and the harbor where the Solstice still lies. Unfortunately, we don't have enough time to visit the legendary Pearl Harbor .

At the Tiki Grill and Bar, we snag a table with a wonderful view of Waikiki Beach from the upstairs terrace . I order an Ahi Tartare Stack of tuna with avocado, spicy sauce, and crostini. My wife goes for Hawaiian ribs, followed, of course, by a superb Poké Bowl.

And pineapple, "the sweetest in the world." Then we continue with the Green Line, a trip that takes us inside the crater of the wide, low, extinct Diamond Head .

It's annoying that the drivers' comments constantly highlight shopping malls. America! This guy, however, has the annoying habit of becoming instantly unhappy in shopping malls. They also talk about hotels with numbers that are supposed to create an impression, and they point out fast food chains as if they were landmarks. Besides, if you want to use the restroom in a mall, you have to get a five-digit number, otherwise the door won't open. Try that when it's super urgent. And those guides, well, they say that eternal " guys, hi guys, you guys " every other sentence. Also odd: the avenues here are so wide that pedestrians waiting for a green "Walk!" sign and then having to wait on the other side, here at intersections as the crow flies, they also have the option of crossing diagonally when the light is red for all directions.

The return flight is with Delta to Los Angeles, from there with Virgin Atlantic to Heathrow, and then on to home. The end of a 24-day trip at the bottom . Little Sofia can't believe her luck at Zaventem airport: " Nonno! Grandma! "