Sicily roundtrip (April 2016)

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Discover the splendor of Sicily. From the salt pans of Trapani to the Greek temples of Agrigento, and from the magnificent Baroque city of Syracuse to Mount Etna and charming Taormina? Crystal-clear sea, Mediterranean climate, and delicious, authentic cuisine! A 12-night stay in charming agriturismos and comfortable hotels…?

Si! Andiamo! Subito!

La Bella Isola Sicilia, it's like love at first sight... You can't help it! Italy's largest island, surrounded by the Mediterranean Sea and diverse cultures, is a bridge to Arab and African countries. The island boasts a diverse landscape with green forests, golden hills, olive groves, and numerous lemon and orange plantations, a wealth of scents and colors. Add to that the beautiful architecture, the warm climate, the unique cuisine, and our own rental car, and that's a perfect vacation for us!

14-15/04 Trapani (hotel Baglio Santacroce)

We're leaving from Eindhoven for the first time. Upon arrival in Trapani, it turns out that 20 to 30 Dutch people have booked almost the same tour package. Consequently, the wait at the car rental counter takes over two hours, roughly the same duration as the flight. It doesn't help when the travelers only try to find their vouchers then. The small Lancia Y we ordered turns out to be unavailable. We end up with a Peugeot 308 with a (poor) navigation system.

The hotel in Valderice is situated on a beautiful estate with a stunning view of the Lo Zingaro nature reserve , which dominates the sea and the surrounding vineyards. The accommodation is housed in authentic old buildings, and for an extra €15, we treated ourselves to a sea-view balcony room. Such a view is the perfect start to a trip. It's already 6 p.m. I don't feel like looking for places to eat after a day of one sandwich. So, we opt for the panoramic hotel restaurant. Pure romance at sunset. I try the local Pasta Trapanese (with almonds) for €6 and Nella a Scoglio (linguine with mussels, clams, and gamberi). Succulent. Our wide-eyed guests had also ordered a calamari fritti and one à la griglia , but that was already far too much. A 1-liter carafe of excellent house wine for €4—it's simply amazing. Naturally, we fall asleep like a log.

We start with the port city of Trapani , northwestern Sicily. First, we struggle with the substandard navigation system, wander for a bit, and then reach the furthest point: Torre de Ligny , a sort of old lighthouse with its crescent-shaped harbor walls and the city at its feet. Wandering through the atmospheric streets of the romantic center, we admire baroque palaces and characteristic white fishermen's houses. Around Corso Vittorio Emmanuele, we visit a few churches and enjoy the charming mix of Siciliana-style food . We decide to have lunch along the Lungomare , but the recommended osterias haven't opened their outdoor terraces yet, which is the plan. I'm then tempted to drive into the old town by car. A mistake. We have to navigate alleyways where you barely have 5 cm between mirrors. For that reason alone, everyone here wants a small car. There's gesticulation, shouting, and sighing at life. But oh well.

We're eating the famous arancini , stuffed fried rice balls, somewhere for €1.80. Two are enough. I'm having the famous kuskus with fish. It comes from Moroccan couscous, yes. Sicily, after all, was an island through which history has passed, leaving its mark on many cultures...

That's why this island is so full of diversity and a wealth of experiences. The word "hodgepodge" and its charm perhaps even capture the essence of this island.

A cable car takes you to the picturesque medieval fortified town of Erice (at an altitude of 751 meters) with spectacular views of Trapani and the Egadi Islands. Ferries take you to Favignana or Levanzo in 25 to 35 minutes.

But we drive steeply and windingly uphill. There are quite a few tourists, but not many, including Americans: "So sorry about what happened to you folks" (regarding the Zaventem attack) and 'Chipanese'... The smooth cobblestone streets make Bruges pale in comparison and are perilous uphill and downhill, and unfriendly for walkers. After leaving deserted streets and winding alleys, and a mass of small churches behind us, we reach the Castello , a genuine old fortified castle. The panoramic view in all directions is stunning, a view across Northern Sicily to Marsala . In the evening, we again opt for the excellent hotel restaurant, but wisely limit ourselves to just one dish, even though it's our wedding anniversary tomorrow...

16/04 On the way to Agrigento (Agriturismo Passo dei Briganti) 176 km

We pass the famous salt pans of Trapani, which have produced Italy's finest salt since the 12th century. The picturesque landscape with white salt pyramids and typically Spanish Don Quixote-style windmills is a magnificent sight! You can sail among them, harvest salt, bathe, and taste salt, but we only take a few photos, although the salt pyramids are unfortunately not there in April. We continue our journey along the seaside, which is very pleasant. We skip Marsala and Selinunte , despite being the largest Greek archaeological site here (in area), because tomorrow we'll visit the impressive Valley of the Temples .

In Sciacca, Piazza A Scandaliato offers a magnificent view of the harbor and the lower town. For lunch, we find a trattoria in a pedestrian alleyway full of local families, typical and relaxed, with TVs on and all, where we indulge in a symphony of antipasti. On the way to the car, a local points out "the longest balcony in Italy, Signori!" And indeed, it is.

At our destination, an agriturismo, a hard dirt road riddled with potholes and crevices leads uphill until we reach buildings decorated entirely in Sicilian farmhouse style. Because of our anniversary, we're given the best room. Everything here is simple, even primitive. Because it's far from everything, we choose the only set menu for €20, which includes appetizers, two first courses, a second course, dessert, a liter of water, and a liter of wine. And all the ingredients are home-grown and home-made.

The atmosphere was jovial, and almost all the Dutch people were sitting at separate tables, chatting back and forth like couples. I stole the show with an unexpected anniversary speech in which I asked my wife if she wanted to continue with me, much to everyone's delight. Afterward, the atmosphere couldn't be any better... also thanks to the lively, eccentric Melina, who served everyone euphorically. At Nella's request, she promised to make the famous Cannoli Siciliani the next day (but it probably wouldn't be good) and then gathered all the tables together as one long table, which wasn't her intention, but from then on, a pleasant group atmosphere prevailed. But during the day, everyone did as they pleased; it's definitely not a group tour. But because I speak Italian and draw heavily on travel experience to offer suggestions and tips, I was quickly jokingly dubbed "our tour guide."

Funny thing. I asked Nella to send the photos she'd taken to my email on my iPad. Turns out she'd mistakenly sent them all to the only other Wim Van Besien in the world: the CFO of Jetair. Woohoo!

Ice cream is a different story here too. We've already encountered jasmine blossom ice cream, mandarin ice cream, and... marijuana ice cream, yes indeed. Pistachio ice cream isn't even green here, even though this is definitely the region where it's made. We also notice that the peak season hasn't started yet; swimming pools aren't filled yet, some supplies aren't there yet, and many inns are still practically empty. But when we visit historical sites, they explode with tourists. What a difference a month will make.

17/04 Sunday:

Our visit to the Valley of the Temples transports us back to ancient times. This area, filled with ancient monuments, intriguing temples, and religious houses, is one of the largest archaeological sites in the Mediterranean and was, not without reason, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The stunning landscape, with its olive and almond trees and strangely horned goats, completes the picture...

Then we head to the rocky coast at Scala dei Turchi , descending to a small beach at its foot. Not beach weather yet, but this unique rock (the "Staircase of the Turks") has a remarkable white color that contrasts beautifully with the clear blue seawater.

In the early evening, I tried to catch the Anderlecht-Club match via a VPN, but it wasn't really working. So I settled for Peter Vandenbempt's fantastic radio commentary on Radio Eén on my tablet.

18/04 Siracusa (Agriturismo La Perciata) 220 km

The journey continues to the coastal city of Syracuse , in southeastern Sicily. We take a detour through the inland mountains to visit the enchanting Villa Romana del Casale . A vast, exquisitely preserved mosaic floor and wall collection captures our admiration. Long walkways wind through the countless rooms. It's packed with people, and it's difficult to get past if you want to. The elaborate mosaic scenes must have been a colossal undertaking.

Then it continues, with Etna looming dominantly on the left. Then it's on via the east coast and Catania to our next accommodation, La Perciata . This one (once again) offers us the most beautiful luxury suite. A large living area with a terrace and kitchen, two bedrooms, and a total of three large balconies on three different sides. There's also a swimming pool, still freezing cold. I'm the only one swimming in it, and we sunbathe for a bit. That's so nice after the winter...

19/04

We'll visit the wonderful city of Syracuse. This characteristic Baroque city is located partly on the island of Ortygia , which is connected to the mainland by three bridges. Here you'll find the historic center with charming narrow streets and various cultural treasures (including the Temple of Apollo and an impressive Baroque cathedral). History buffs will be delighted by the Parco Archeologica della Neapolis, an archaeological park featuring a Roman amphitheater (equal in size to the Colosseum), a Greek theater, and the Altar of Hieron , but we'll do that tomorrow.

We stroll all through and around this charming town. The market, in particular, creates a wonderful atmosphere. Nella buys about thirty ricci, spiny sea urchins she's crazy about. Normally, these are expensive, and opening them is quite an ordeal. But here, the scarce orange pulp was already placed in a cup, ready to be spread on some bread. Yum. A loudly chattering man is making sandwiches outside. The ingredients that go into them, from wild fennel and all sorts of herbs, lettuce and vegetables, charcuterie and cheeses, all in one big, thick, creamy roll, result, with explanations and an entertaining show (he worked on it for ten minutes), in a flavor explosion, by far the tastiest "sandwich" we've ever eaten. Five euros, sir. The two of us will eat from it for two days. We don't want anything more, except for a good local Nero d'Avolo , of course… I get a wet shave from a real old barber. In an antique setting, with a white apron, thick lather with the brush—a real ritual. My jaws have never felt so fresh.

In the evening, there's a free wine tasting, which simply means the group can enjoy a few bottles with cheese and antipasto snacks. No explanation, nothing... After a swim, we retreat to our terrace paradise with our sandwiches...

20/04 To Etna (Hotel d'Orange) 131 km

Before we travel further, we go to visit Noto .

This purely Baroque city at the foot of the Iblean Mountains owes its nickname "the yellow city" to the sandy color reflected in many of its historic buildings. Besides the countless sights and unique architecture, you can also try the delicious " pezzo duro ," a local delicacy made from almonds, chocolate, and other nuts. Afterwards, we'll briefly visit Neapolis , the site of Syracuse. The temple remains are nothing compared to what we've already seen, but a highlight is the Cave of Dionysius , shaped like an ear, once "discovered by Caravaggio ," and with oppressive, reverberant acoustics. No cathedral, no space has ever offered such an auditory experience. There was singing that became pure ambient music. A climax. The nearby gardens also have a fairytale quality. Unforgettable.

And then on to Francavilla di Sicilia , near Etna, with a wonderfully good restaurant. We puffed our way through the town and bought some drinks, because we were always thirsty.

21/04

Mount Etna is the symbol of Sicily, the highest in Europe at 3,350 meters. You can hike through the unique landscape reminiscent of the moon and listen to the bubbling sound of lava. It's quite an undertaking to do something adventurous. We drive to a high point where the ski lifts (not in use) begin, but we're a bit disappointed. Last year, we witnessed the most amazing volcanic phenomena in La Réunion.

So, quickly coastward to Taormina , Sicily's chic city, which truly has everything to please tourists. We stroll through the charming Corso Umberto, full of restaurants and shops, and watch as the atmosphere transforms into a huge party. The Greek Theatre is especially worth a visit. I'd been here before and thought it was one of the most beautiful panoramic views in the world: from the top of the theatre, you see the archaeological remains like a stage set, with a picturesque village to the right and the slopes of Etna, sliding down from the summit into a shimmering, silver sea with a beach, trees, and coastal paths... unique!

We ran into an assessor (alderman) from Taormina, who promptly admitted to being a friend of the mayor of Bruges. They had the same problems. Because of the narrow street grid and the throngs of tourists, they had no choice but to opt for a car-free, or at least quiet, city center. They were there discussing measures to prevent further congestion, as even the megalomaniac parking systems, complete with a giant elevator and a strict no-go zone policy, were already reaching their limits.

22/04

Not far from our hotel, the beautiful natural phenomenon of the Gole Alcantara Gorge is an ultimate attraction.

The River of Venus , which meanders effectively through the alabaster and lava formations of Etna, is a truly wonderful experience. In this gorge, Etna's meltwater flows past spectacular lava rock walls, dotted with waterfalls. A wonderful walk full of surprises and photo opportunities. Once at the bottom, I step into the icy water. Legend has it that Venus had deceived Vulcano , and in revenge, he made the water ice cold. Tradition has it that anyone who does enter will experience libido and potency-enhancing effects. My wife screamed: Nooooo!!! But too late…

We have lunch in the hotel garden, go somewhere for an ice cream, and relax a bit. It's a shame the rooftop pool isn't open yet.

23/04 to Montalbano Elicona (Hotel Federico II) 162 km

The last stop is Montalbano Elicona , in the northeast of the island. This medieval village has been declared one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. From this region, a visit to the Aeolian Islands is easily done – several ferries depart daily from the port of Milazzo. These seven volcanic islands, named after the king of the winds, "Aeolus," lie north of Sicily, around Stromboli , which I've sailed past a few times. These islands are actually formed by volcanic peaks, and here and there, steam curls over them. But in the end, we decide not to, because the weather is a bit disappointing. It's raining.

We visit the village. Tomorrow, there will be medieval spectacles in and around the castle and fortifications. We're warmly welcomed by a local who treats us to an aperitif, and we stay for a cheap, unpretentious lunch in this simple complex. In the evening, I enjoy a "percorso benessere" for next to nothing. Actually, I'm more interested in the Turkish bath than the sauna and bubbles, but that's precisely what doesn't work. I complain and have to do it again tomorrow.

24/04

We're heading to Tindari , Sicily's most famous pilgrimage site. Along narrow roads, without a soul in sight—it's Sunday—we drive through exuberant, wild nature, a symphony of wildflowers, abundant wild fennel, and yellow, broom-covered slopes northward. But when we arrive, it seems like the floodgates have opened. Tindari is teeming with pilgrims who have emerged from their caves precisely on this Sunday. At the former Acropolis , now a vast square, you'll find the Church of the Black Madonna . It's a chilly but pleasant walk, with magnificent views high above the sea...

In the afternoon, we went to the wellness center. Unfortunately, the Turkish bath wasn't working again, and Nella had a massage that had to be stopped quickly due to the unnerving and completely unrelaxing noise from the shifting tables above. We noted that we didn't get what we booked, and for the first time, the evening meal was poor and disorganized, with a veal steak that looked like a piece of leather and the pricing was inaccurate.

25-26/04 Back to Trapani 286 km

At checkout, they wanted us to pay for the spa extras, but we refused on principle. Nella, with her Southern Italian roots, said: "I won't pay for what I didn't receive. Call the manager." He said the same thing. Then he was unreachable. Nothing yielded anything. They persisted. "OK," said Nella, "then we'll leave without paying." Stunned, she pushed me into the car, and I left. Later, we heard from other guests that panic broke out. Of course, we didn't mean to pay nothing.

After a while, Nella called the hotel again, and this time, the manager was reachable. He called us back later. He was completely understanding and only let us email the undisputed extras as an invoice, which we promptly paid upon returning home. But that was a bit of a shame...

From Montalbano Elicona we drive back to Trapani, where we stay one more night.

Along the way we will enjoy beautiful views and make a stop at the medieval town of Cefalù (about 75 km east of Palermo).

This enchanting coastal town lies in the shadow of a steep cliff, right on the sea. It's windy and the sea is stormy, but it's a delightful place. Then we pass Palermo, but we don't go inside, but before the last stretch to Trapani, we want to see the magnificent monastery and church of Santa Maria La Nova in Monreale , an orgy of mosaics and gold leaf. The views down on Palermo are the final highlight of this trip. We have a pizza and drive the rest of the longest stretch of this holiday to the same starting hotel, where lavish farewell drinks and treats from the hotel owner (liqueurs with all sorts of flavors in Biberon bottles) are a treat for us. And of course, we have another... Scoglio. Tomorrow we fly back...

Some thoughts, reflections, fond memories.

Me: “Look Nella, there’s white smoke hanging over Etna!” She dryly: “Habemus papam”

Me: "What fish are you eating?" She: "The fish of the day."

After the trip: How was Sicily? "It was full of Dutch people there."

Sicily: you don't understand a thing, don't even try to rationalize it. Even the simplest things are poorly organized, but if you don't get worked up, everything will eventually fall into place.

Public toilets, for example, are usually a disaster: no toilet paper or the toilet seat doesn't work, and the government has clearly cut back on the "toilet seat" department.

A Café cremino freddo, small one with cream, delicious.

Barbazzale wine, a grape variety grown in the lava soil of Mount Etna, is quite special. It has a slightly complex structure yet is soft, full-bodied, and round, young yet flavorful, ideal with unsophisticated dishes. It's a bit different from the equally delicious Nero d'Avola.