Cruise “Californian Grapevines” (MS Regatta Oceania 24/4 – 3/05/2022)

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Flight with SN to Washington. After days of hassle with paperwork, declarations, the ESTA (US visa), and impossible glitches with malfunctioning websites, check-in at Zaventem turns out to be a frivolous affair. You have to declare that you don't have COVID, and that's it; the numerous documents and certificates weren't even checked. In Washington, we have to go through security and even pick up our luggage and check in again. Immigration asks the same absurd questions, because if you answer yes, you simply won't be allowed in, of course. Questions like: did you already have cholera? Were you involved in a terrorist attack? Criminal activities? Drug trafficking .

We landed at LAX with United around 6:00 PM, a nine-hour difference from Belgium. I booked a super cheap hotel; we just needed a bed to sleep in before leaving early the next morning for the World Cruise Terminal in San Pedro . The ship's procedures were extensive, but once we were finally in the system with our photo and all, we received our boarding pass, a combination of check-in and check-out, payment, and stateroom key.

COVID hit hard here. Face masks aren't mandatory for passengers, but they are for the crew. Reportedly, 50 passengers were infected on our last cruise. And now, 26 crew are infected, and that's affecting certain services. The stateroom next to us, for example, went into complete quarantine, visited only by staff in completely sealed white suits with plastic face shields. Even our friendly stewardess, Jeminie Alcantara, will be temporarily suspended "for safety."

We have concierge level which means priority when booking the so-called specialty restaurants: the Polo Grill (steaks, lobster, seafood) and the Toscana (Italian).

The wines poured are overly generous in terms of quantity per glass, and they just keep pouring more without asking. All drinks are included in our trip. I'm not complaining. You can relax after the cruise. Yet, everything here seems to be based on the American model: quantity comes before quality, I think. The Terrace Café is casual and buffet-style. The Grand Dining Room, on the other hand, is classy. The Horizons Lounge, a long front window at the top of the ship's nose on the 10th floor, is elegant and pleasant. The Regatta (show) lounge is equipped with lighting, audio, and projection equipment I could only dream of thirty years ago. But the entertainment shows are somewhat limited because half the production team has been struck down by COVID.

There are many Indonesian, Filipino, and Indian waiters and bartenders. The captain is Croatian, the cruise director Julie James from Tasmania, the restaurant manager from South Africa, and the executive concierge from Mallorca. Everyone does a fantastic job, except for the sommeliers, who know the wines on the menu, but more than what's listed on the ticket—let's just say broader knowledge—seems nonexistent. In no time, we become, haha , how could it be otherwise, the "popular couple" on board.

The passengers are mainly Americans, and as the cliché goes: they come in all shapes and sizes. The obesity is quite noticeable, and there are plenty of ludicrous characters. Wonderful: grandmas in expensive Nike sneakers. Michelin women and older men with white hair and long, luxuriant gray chest hair.

But there are twelve Belgians traveling together, and we make friends with two couples from Ostend. Of the 460 passengers, there are 17 Belgians on board. My six languages usually make a splash here, but there's a guy working the reception desk who speaks fourteen languages, including Italian with a heavy Neapolitan accent. Pretty funny. But hats off, that's for sure.

Ensenada

Ensenada is the birthplace of the original Margarita, my favorite cocktail. It's usually made with lime, but fresh mango, strawberries, or blueberries are also delicious.

We're leaving too early. Shops, bars, and such don't open until 11:00 AM. Which does add to the town's charm. Anyway, we'll be back in nine days. So after a short exploratory walk, we'll just soak up the sun and continue to de-jetlag.

For more information about Ensenada: surf to Cruise Mexican Riviera

Next time I want to visit Hussong's Cantina , the oldest authentic Mexican tequila bar with a great atmosphere, where I once experienced an unforgettable knockout farewell party, complete with a mariachi band, with my cruise crew 31 years ago after my new wife had forced me to end my seafaring career.

Ensenada is called the Cinderella of the Pacific . It has Spanish, Russian, and American influences and is located in northern Baja California, not far from the US border city of Tijuana. It's a popular cruise port packed with curios (souvenir shops), especially along Calle Primavera . It's very tourist-oriented, with bars, restaurants (fish and shrimp tacos and ceviches are popular here), hotels, and clubs. The climate is ideal for grape and olive cultivation, and therefore also favours the production of wine and olive oil. Hence the Fiestas de la Vendimia (wine harvest festivals) and other festivities such as Carnival.

San Diego

What a surprisingly charming city! All passengers do have to go through immigration one by one again . But once outside, we find an old sightseeing bus that visits all the must-sees, with commentary constantly referencing famous people and films that were filmed here, such as the iconic Top Gun with Tom Cruise, Almost Famous , and Traffic . And we admire the beautiful hotel from the delightful comedy " Some Like It Hot".

The city is nestled between deep canyons and hills, interspersed with mesas (table mountains) and stretches of parkland. The San Diego River divides the city into north and south sections. The region's economy relies on agriculture, biotechnology and computer science, defense, and tourism. Historic ships are moored in the Columbia district, next to the USS Midway aircraft carrier. Charming San Diego has a friendly atmosphere and plenty of open space, creating the feeling of a clean, safe, and prosperous city. For some reason, I expected it to be different. What a relief!

Catalina Island

This small island lies 35 km south-southwest of Los Angeles and is 35 km long and about 13 km wide. The town of Avalon has been a tourist haven since the 1920s , primarily for residents of Southern California. It's pleasant to stroll along the waterfront, or you can rent a golf cart for 2 to 10 people. At the end of the harbor stands the Catalina Casino , a spectacular entertainment hall. Since its opening in 1929, it has been a hub of cultural and showbiz activities. Otherwise, you'll find the usual attractions here: snorkeling, water sports, and glass-bottom boats. There are shipwrecks and a vibrant underwater fauna and flora.

San Francisco (two days)

For me, it's a trip back in time to 1982, the first time I was here. It's still the most beautiful city in the States for me. We're sightseeing along all the sights.

The orange-colored Golden Gate Bridge , the jingling streetcars (trams), the rolling fog, an eclectic mix of architecture, such as the Columbus Tower with the headquarters of Francis Ford Coppola's Zoetrope , Fisherman's Wharf, Chinatown, Telegraph Hill (panoramic view), the legendary prison island Alcatraz and its steep slopes make this city for me the most beautiful and fun in the United States.

While the setting feels dramatic and unusual, there's a relaxed atmosphere, and the aftermath of the infamous hippie era of the late 1960s is still palpable here and there. The photos from Sausalito of the bridge and the city skyline are naturally worth a selfie and many snapshots.

San Francisco is the second most populous city in the country and was founded in 1776 by Spanish colonists. The city, sometimes shortened to Frisco, owes its name to Francis of Assisi.

Thanks to the Gold Rush (1849), it briefly became the largest city on the West Coast. But an earthquake and a massive fire in 1906 destroyed nearly three-quarters of the city. It was quickly rebuilt and became a major port of departure for troops bound for the Pacific during World War II. The United Nations was founded here in 1945. This later evolved into a very liberal activism and a spirit of freedom, a significant wave of immigration, the rise of beatniks and hippies, the sexual revolution, and the center of the Peace

Movement against the Vietnam War, which led to the Summer of Love and a significant gay rights movement . Politically, it is therefore a stronghold of the Democratic Party. San Francisco is also a center of science and art with numerous educational and cultural institutions, major universities, and museums.

Sailing out from under the Golden Gate, into the wide-open mouth of the Great Pacific, is magical and unforgettable for me (and for the few on deck because of the strong wind).

Monterey was unfortunately cancelled due to local Covid conditions.

Santa Barbara

So quiet, peaceful, beautiful. Who remembers that eponymous TV show, a soap opera, from 1984-1993? Wide avenues and sidewalks, a Mediterranean climate, few people, little traffic, no rush, no hurry, a wide range of art, very residential with beautiful buildings (average value at least €1.5 million), mostly in Spanish colonial hacienda or Victorian style, and with exuberant palm trees, cacti, flowers, and art everywhere. Large, spacious sidewalk cafes and restaurants, and a population comparable to Bruges. The Court House , the botanical gardens, and the feeling of spaciousness are especially memorable.

Los Angeles marks the end of this cruise, but we're continuing on to the Mexican Riviera. I wanted to go to Long Island today to visit the legendary Queen Mary (Cunard) , which has been converted into a hotel, but I find the taxi fare a bit steep.